Ottertail experiences?

Yes, length will be an issue,
I’m lucky I am near Tom and his fabulous collection. All of his are too short but he’s generous in lending out for trials – I will be able to “feel” on the water exactly how short, and have a better idea of what to buy. Trying to get it right the first time.

I see that ottertail length is opposite of bents – I don’t care if a bent is a couple inches too short but half an inch too long is too much!

Thanks Pilotwingz. Thanks Tom!

Some Beavertail/Ottertail cogitations
Here are a couple of early Saturday morning, not much above zero, sure wish I was paddling, Beavertail/Ottertail observations and opinions.

  1. The greatest power from a Beavertail comes at the beginning of the stroke, because the fat part of the blade is where the paddle first enters the water. The power in an Ottertail comes later, as you draw the blade to you, because the fattest part of the blade enters the water later in the stroke. This is also where your body, especially your forearm and shoulder, has more power and better leverage. If you take both types out and paddle from the stern position you can feel these differences almost immediately. A Beavertail is usually more responsive to good paddling form, because the fatter part of the blade is in use at the beginning of the stroke, where form is often at its worst. An Ottertail is slightly more forgiving of less-than-perfect form, because of having the power phase come later in the stroke, closer to your body, where form is often better. I have and use both, generally preferring the Ottertail with bigger, heavier, rockered boats like a loaded-up Prospector. That long blade can really increase the effect of correction and, especially, steering strokes.
  2. Once you’ve found the paddle you like, see if you can compare different examples of the same model/same length paddle. Most Ottertails and many Beavertails are made of a single piece of stock, and weights can vary wildly from one to the next. This is, of course, even more the case with paddles made from different varieties of wood. A beautiful 66” walnut Ottertail could easily weigh half-again as much as the same style/same length paddle in cherry. And a well aged cherry paddle (or one that has hung on a rack for a couple of years) with no finish on the grip or just a light oil finish could easily weigh 2-4 ounces less than another one produced from less well-aged stock that has been finished all over with something thicker, such as a urethane. A light paddle is still your friend, even if it is made from solid stock.

    I hope these comments/opinions help. I use a variety of paddles, but often seem to return to some traditional styles when the work gets serious in bigger boats. The Shaw and Tenney paddle is real American art; my personal favorite is the Racine model. I’d strongly encourage you to seek out some Turtle Paddleworks dealers before all these great paddles disappear; they ceased production a year or so ago, but there is some new-old-stock of a number their of models still available, at least at my local shop, Rutabaga. They made some terrific paddles that will surely become real collector’s items in the future. Paddle On!

Paddle weight and traditional paddles
Lighter is usually better, but my humble opinion is that weight is less critical with a tradtional paddle. Many of your recovery strokes will be in-water, and the paddle bouyancy will support much of its weight.

traditional paddle weights
No argument; your point is well-taken and certainly true: Paddle weight IS somewhat less of a consideration in traditional paddles. However, if a buyer is able to compare same style/same length and find an obvious difference in weight from one paddle to another (as is often the case with one piece paddles,) all other things being equal, my recommendation would still be to take the lighter one every time.

Sawyer
Cedar Northwoods, I think they call it. Plenty light, and well balanced, and good flex, and tough edging. Very nice modern execution.