Gunwales
For what it’s worth, I installed padeyes to the bottom of the gunwale in my FS (05 version) with screws and I do recall drilling through aluminum when doing so. I had plenty of aluminum shards in the bottom of the boat to clean out. So, perhaps MR used a different aluminum brace in this boat or just oriented the L differently.
Great ideas.
late today or tomorrow I will be running a strength test to determine how much force a cable clamp/wellnut combo can resist when installed in a scrap piece of vinyl. The results will determine which direction I then go.
The peel and bulb rivit suggestions are very good. If the wellnuts do not stand up to force I may go that route.
As for weathering of webbing, it is my experience that Yakima strapa start to get sort of stiff and crispy after 3 or 4 years. Of course, I never seem to get around to 303’ing them. Marine stores often sell polyester flat web, which is more UV resistant than either nylon or polypropylene.
Somewhere there is a group of nuclear physisists having a less intense discussion than are we.
Jim
Test results
A cable clamp (7/16", black nylon) and 3/8" wellnut combo easily withstood a 50# sideways pull without damaging the nut. Oh yeah, a 10-32 SS truss head screw in the nut was also undamaged (!).
Looks like I will be going that direction.
Jim
Nice fittings for the backband
I assume you fabricated them yourself – well done. If I ever replaced the gunwales, I’d want to install those at the same time, for anchoring the cross straps.
For now, I’m going with the nylon cable clamps, and cord attached at deckplate and thwart. When someone volunteers to do a number of tests to determine shear and tensile strengths on all the possible and various components and materials, I may reconsider, but in the meantime, Jsaults’ 50 lb test on the nylon cable clamps (below) works for me.
Actually, it’s commercially available
I started by using a sewable tab d-ring, but wasn’t satisfied with the strength, so I went looking and found these. Had to buy a large quantity, but we’ll get through it eventually (so if you ever want some, let me know).
If you meant the backbands, yes, we fabricate those (I have a GREAT wife)
Weekend Update
Sorry, this one is without Tina Fey. Althoug we could possibly start a thread about her on the other board. But I digress.
Whatever BMO charges for shop time is well worth it. I had a laundry list of modifications to do on the MR-FS, and I spent over 6 hours at it with no breaks, but still didn’t finish.
Painters: Drill endcaps, install shock cord, cut painters, whip ends (complete)
Front thwart adjustment: Trim thwart where it pressed against hull (complete).
Foot Brace: Fabricate adjustable “H” style footbrace out of red oak slats, attach to front thwart w/SS hinges, oil the wood. (complete, but I already have a more appropriate hinge design in mind)
Install fittings for perimeter lines: Although I have the materials I didn’t have time to even get started. Drilling 3/8" holes in the underside of the gunwales will be a PITA, but I may make use of an air-powered drill which is more compact than my battery unit. I will have to fabricate a drilling template first.
Fabricate & install a webbing thwart: I sewed up a reasonable facsimile of Mike’s Mowhawk unit on my old Singer and bolted it in place. Plagiarism is the most sincere form of flattery! (complete)
Cant the seat: Didn’t even get started.
Mike, unfortunately the trimming of the thwart did not cure the gunwale twist. I am planning on removing both thwarts and the seat during my next shop session and taking some measurements. I may have to employ a 2x4 lever and reshape them to get the desired symmetry.
And yes, the gunwales make use of an aluminum L-angle, and not a box or U. The profile can be felt if you snake your hand way up into the end-cap area and there are no Black Widow spiders or wasps living there.
Jim
photo of web loop/rivet method…
Here’s a photo of the webbing loop method that I used on my Mohawk:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/115952322/1183270704052267607IFtJBj
I used pop rivets to secure the webbing loops, and prepped the rivet hole on the webbing using a soldering iron so that the hole was heat sealed and would not unravel (someone else mentioned this method above). I then made a bungee system that I can install or remove using caribeeners. I used a different color caribeener for the end, and so it’s easy to reinstall if I take it out altogether.
Most times I am river camping with my dog, and she has the entire area in the bow (bungees removed), and all my gear is in the stern. Big packs are held in under the bungees and little things can be clipped directly onto the caribeeners. The caribeener system makes it easy to unhook just one section to access something, or to take the whole thing out. I’ve been very happy with this system.
Credit actually goes to Coyoteequip on this board. I blatently copied what he did on his Wildfire. (Only my choice of colors for my webbing and bungees was prettier! :o) )
All this talk of canoe outfitting has me feeling like a river camping trip soon!
More progress!
Actually, I may be done, at least temporarily.
I spent 7 (seven!) hours today on this boat. Progress today consisted of:
- Getting the wobble out of the gunwales. Mike, I had to shorten the front thwart by an inch to make it fit after I yanked & sat on the gunwales to make them reasonably true. Now the boat is only 1/4" corkscrewed when I rack it.
- Installed the (completed) web portage yoke. These simple accessories are amazingly comfy when carrying a boat this size & weight.
- Upgraded the foot brace I built last weekend.
- Installed cable clamps under the gunwales and threaded perimeter lines. I ended up using bulb blind rivits, which seem to work well. Only problem was that two of the nylon clamps fractured when rivited. Not at the eyelet, but opposite the eyelet in the clamp body. These were cheapies I got at Lowes, so they were probably manufactured in a third world country.
I was able to run the perimeter line from a D-ring/webbing anchor at the thwart, forward through the clamps, through the end-cap moulding, and back to the other side of the thwart. Actually worked pretty well.
- Canted the seat forward.
I took pictures, but my next project is to fire up a new PC, so it may be a bit of time until I upload the shots to Grove Street.
No boating tomorrow: Cold and windy with snow showers predicted. But I’m ready foPymo!
Jim
in need of a nap.
Mad River ain’t the company it was when Jim & Kay owned it. The QC is not what it once was, and this was a boat made before the move south. Thwarts and seat had been trimmed to fit the hull without the aid of a mitre box (crooked cuts) and the bare wood had not been oiled!
Don’t feel bad about the seat
Even Bell seems use a hack saw on there seat end cuts. I’ve fixed three of them in the last few years by pulling the seat cutting and routering the ends.
Stainless steel cable clamps
"4. Installed cable clamps under the gunwales and threaded perimeter lines. I ended up using bulb blind rivits, which seem to work well. Only problem was that two of the nylon clamps fractured when rivited. Not at the eyelet, but opposite the eyelet in the clamp body."
I’m thinking of using these: http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&productId=13224110
But you’re getting it done. I’ve barely gotten started.
Cable clamps
I elected to use the nylon variety, as ultimate strength was not my goal. I actually wanted something that would break before the vinyl. SS clamps would have been my choice if my gunwales were ash.
Jim
Pics are up!
http://www.grovestreet.com/jsp/userview.jsp?username=Jsaults
Sorry for the lighting - I forgot to set my camera for tungsten lighting. Foor brace was made from 1/2 x 1-1/2 red oak slats, bought at Lowes, with an oil finish. My woodworking is not up to NT’s standards, but I was not in the mood to linger over my work. The hinges are made from 1" tubular web, with sections of 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum flat inserted & sewn in for stiffness. The unit removes, folds in and attaches under the seat with shock cord (no picture).
I will also be uploading the pics from teh Gents Tortoise trip when I turn in - dial-up is a slow way to do photos.
Jim
Sweet
Well done. Your footbrace is the best solution I’ve seen for Royalex boats. At some point, I’ll be attempting an imitation. Thanks for posting the pics.