Marc ran a clinic
going upstream on a log jammed fun filled with overhangs stream… sometimes you don’t get what you want.
The New Jersey Pine Barrens were a great teacher. Get two inches out of line and you were in …either grass or on a log or under a log. There was current of about 1.5 mph on the Batsto.
We did a couple of other trips involving some upstream forays… The good thing about upstream first is that you have more time to think about obstacles and current than going …downstream… and you can scout to see if you indeed should come downstream.
Basic Physics
– Last Updated: Dec-19-15 12:09 PM EST –
Basic physics indicates that (all things being equal) water will generally be moving slower, along the shoreline. Surface friction between the water and the shoreline, slows the flow. Any shoreline features, regardless of how small will create turbulence which also disturbs the downstream flow. These effects gain significance as the speed of the flow increases, but except for very slow moving streams (in which cases the premise of this thread is irrelevant) the difference is significant.
Zigging and zagging to maneuver around obstructions is generally the wrong approach, especially when heading upstream. Side slipping and ferrying is far more efficient and effective. In the case of side slipping, the chance of the current spinning the bow downstream is dramatically reduced, if one controls the boat's angle, relative to the flow. Using ferries to move back and forth, utilizes the current to do much of the work.
On streams that are particularly twisty, side slipping or ferrying to stay in the slack water, below the inside of turns, actually shortens the distance to be traveled. Draw a picture of a serpentine stream, then plot an imaginary course, heading upstream, while staying (to the extent possible) below the inside curves. You'll find the course to be shorter than had you simply plotted a course along the center of the stream. Shorter course plus less current, equals a more efficient journey.
As for shallow water, along the shore line, (I know that some of you will point out exceptions) most streams, that are otherwise deep enough to paddle, have adequate water for the paddle as close as four or five feet to the shoreline. If one keeps the hull one or two feet from the shoreline (less when possible) there will generally be adequate water for the paddle, on the deep water side of the hull. This may necessitate using cross forward strokes or switching paddle sides.
Some of what I have stated is based on single blading a canoe. When double blading a canoe or kayak, one obviously must have room between the hull and shoreline for the other blade.
Some years ago, I paddled in the NJ Pine Barrens with a friend. We were both paddling similar boats (13-14' long, 25-28" width at the gunwales and 1 1/2"+-rocker). He was a much more powerful paddler than I was. He had a reputation for muscling his way through dicey situations, rather than looking for the "cleaner" path. As we began our way upstream, he worked out in the open, while I hugged the shoreline, as I have described. After a few minutes, I stopped and waited for him to catch up then proceeded on again. After about a half hour, he caught up to me as I sat in a shoreline eddy. After he caught his breath, he asked me what the h--l I was doing, that he couldn't keep up. I explained and suggested that he follow me for a bit, then try the techniques on his own. He did so for half an hour or so but then returned to muscling his way up the center of the river.
These techniques require concentration (at least for a while) and an understanding of the water. In my opinion, the effort taken to learn and practice these techniques has and will reap rewards for the rest of my paddling lifetime.
2400 miles upstream
I paddled 2400 miles upstream of the Missouri river from St. Louis to Montana…use a RUDDER. And a light paddle. I used a single blade which is better than a double for upstream since at times by hull was 4 inches from shore and you cannot dip a kayak paddle on the side closest to shore due to NO space etc… Plenty of upstream eddies close to shore. You go about 2mph…so plan on not much more than 17 miles in a 12 hour paddle day and as much as a 24 miles in a drop-pool river. Slow and steady is what you need to do. And a rudder
Rudders not always helpful
There are a variety of places to paddle. Of course on a deep powerful river with long radius turns a rudder is helpful
On winding Adirondack and New Jersey streams a rudder is definitely a detriment.And a sea canoe cannot even fit the tight radius turns.
When you think of what is the right answer to anything involving your paddling, you have to consider where you are paddling.
I love my Monarch with rudder going upstream against tidal flows on the Kennebec River. I would not dream of taking it on the Batsto.
Best craft depends on type of river
A lot of the responses are from people with multiple boats and who boat on many different types of rivers.
Yes, go upstream first, no matter what kind of river it is.
On relatively wide rivers with some depth, a narrow and fast boat will be the most efficient. On these rivers, you mainly want to power straight ahead without maneuvering. A rudder is very helpful on these kinds of rivers to maintain lines, especially ferry lines. My outrigger canoe with under-stern rudder, paddled with a bent shaft single blade, is my best craft for these kinds of rivers – better than my rudderless sea kayaks with double blades.
If you are on a narrower, twistier or much more surface-obstructed river, in which maneuvering is necessary (slips, ferries, eddy hops), you would probably prefer a shorter and slightly more rockered boat.
If you are buying just one boat, I wouldn’t obsess on the ability to paddle upstream. I’d just buy the boat that seems the affordably best and most comfortable for the type of waters I predominantly paddle. Whatever it is, you’ll be able to paddle upstream in it – perhaps slower, perhaps faster than some other guy or gal. So what? It’s not a race or competition, and you can get good exercise and have fun no matter what.
Consider poling a tandem canoe.
I just got off the Snake River, which is pretty large by Idaho standards. It’s a pushy and turbulent stretch where I was, but has almost no overhanging trees. Because of this, I can pole upstream hugging the bank on either side. Ferrying across to stay on the inside of every bend would be a waste of effort. Even on the outside bends with strong current, it is easy to go upstream using the micro eddies along the bank.
I made it up two miles in one hour without even working hard. If you tried paddling up this stretch with a double paddle, you’d have to work harder - and might not even be able to get past the rapids that I got to ride through on the way back down.
upstream
Eddy hoping is the first skill to learn. Practice reading the subtle movement of slow rivers. I have found that a kayak paddle makes paddling a canoe easier into the wind or upstream. Bigger boats are faster but less manoeuvrable. Any boat will work if you have the skills.
I met a guy that paddled the Colorado River upstream from the confluence with the Green R in Utah. People have used jet boats for the shuttle because the current is fast. Now people do it more commonly.
Bigger boats = less maneuverable
…except, not so much when poling. With practice and good secondary stability, a poler can easily edge a 16’ canoe so it will turn like a 12-footer. Makes following the bank that much easier, even with the occasional boulder or tree in the way.
well
Couldnt have been done without it…just saying.
I paddle upriver a lot
I travel for work and see a lot of different rivers. I often paddle alone on rivers I have only scouted via topographic maps and satellite imagery.
Paddling up river first is the safest way to learn a river in my opinion, if you have not scouted or have knowledge on a personal level.
I have used many different types of kayaks, most of my fleet are rockered style boats of different beam widths.
My favorite upstream boat is the Pyrahna Speeder, hands down. This has the efficiency to make good speed and the turning ability to maneuver around most any obstacle. The poly hull makes whacking into boulders and other obstacles not as painful as in a composite boat of equal efficiency.
The speeder does require good paddling form, and the ability to aggressively edge the boat to stay on course as most paddlers find it does not track by itself, it requires the paddler to “drive”.
It is a remarkably efficient and fast hull for a short(ish) boat. Having no rocker to speak of and rounded hull also allow for turning nearly as fast as a WW boat.
.
Wetted skin area and paddle choice
– Last Updated: Dec-26-15 10:39 AM EST –
Something that has not been covered in this thread yet. is wetted skin area and paddle choice affecting the ability to push a longer boat through the water faster. I am constantly going both directions on a river. Kind of hard to set up a shuttle when you are going out alone.
This is a story of three boats and of my losing strength do to aging. Done in water conditions that the OP is asking about.
The boats. Mohawk Jensen C1, Mohawk 14 solo, and Bell Wildfire.
The paddles and styles bent shaft wood Grey Owl, bent shaft plastic Mohawk, wood straight shaft Bending Branches.
Please remember most if not all the information above thread is correct and take it into consideration as being used in the following. I often go out for a canoe run on the same section of the local river system on Sunday mourning's. Have used the three different canoes many times on the route that is the same as the OP's route conditions.
The funny thing is the best and easiest trip with the least effort comes from the Wildfire with a wood bent shaft using a hit and switch method. Using a "J" or Canadian stroke with a straight shaft is about twenty percent slower. In the same Canoe. The Mohawk Jenson C1 can keep the same speed as the Wildfire with more effort in steering. Just do not have the ability to push it through the water as fast any more. Wild fire seems to have more "GLIDE". The "GLIDE" seems to help with my some what less stroke speed nowadays The Mohawk 14 in Royalex is quite a bit slower. Thirty percent slower with about the same effort. Between the hull shape and the Royalex flexing a little I lose ability to slice through the water and little energy in the flex.
The hit and switch method with a bent shaft gives me the most efficient use of my energy. In a mostly straight river with some obstacles a bent shaft wood paddle gives the best performance. The plastic back of the Mohawk bent shaft is not as efficient as it has a stiffener down its center of the blade like most plastic paddles and the weight of plastic paddles will tire you out faster. The straight shaft just dose not have the same efficiency and is the slowest. Now lets say I am in a rock garden or other constant turning environment. Will always use a straight shaft for control.
So the moral of this story is hull shape is very important but a factor that has been left out so far is how much of a hull can you push through the water with ease? How dose the hull shape work when off power("GLIDE")? Also that when going upstream style points for fancy paddling dose not count. Just how efficient the paddle and strokes are. Hit and switch is the most efficient or you would see flat water racers doing the "J" stroke.
When/if you can demo now & then…get
– Last Updated: Dec-26-15 9:45 PM EST –
the specs of the boats you do get to paddle...to judge what features work best for your physique and skills.
If you envision possible layoffs in your paddling, then look for the slightly more stable boat without losing too many other traits. Try to demo with some different paddles, when possible. If that's difficult...give the paddlemaker some info about yourself...physical makeup, experience..etc as you search. He/they will know what his/their paddle might be a good match.
upriver in a canoe
Want to go upriver in a canoe, a double paddle is far more efficient and much less tiring.
Yeah I like my bent paddle on lakes and down stream but the long kayak paddle is just better when you need power.
Bill H.
Totally agree on double blade
I know many canoe purists really cringe at the idea of using a double blade paddle in a canoe. There are few reasons to chose a single blade when upstream paddling or even against a strong tide. Using a double-blade virtually eliminates correction strokes and really allows your strokes to be fully utilized for overcoming the opposing head-on current. I understand that there are some unique instances such as very narrow twisty streams with overhanging or low-hanging tree branches where a kayak paddle would be difficult to handle, or those who hug the bank as described above. Its all situational! Give them both a try and see what suits your situation best.