tktoo, the webbing material WILL matter
quite a bit. Just use Nylon, and you will find out when it gets wet.
tktoo, the webbing material WILL matter
I’m sure you’re right GeeTwo,
though I used nylon ropes to tie on my boats for years in all weather and found very little relaxing, or stretching, when wet. Maybe they got stretched out and stayed that way? Your recommendation to use polypro or some other synthetic fiber is consistent with what I've heard and read.
Guideboat's advice is sound, as well but, I don't know if I'd want anyone standing nearby while I used my car to pre-stretch the webbing!
I have often used Nylon ropes, and
I have found it necessary to snug them up after they get wet. In some cases, one can tighten them so much that dampness will not leave them loose. But it is not a good idea to overtighten ropes as a constant practice. It can distort some boats, and over-tightening can leave the ropes with relatively little reserve strength for unusual stresses, such as can occur in an accident.
Perhaps one could use Nylon webbing if one dampened it before nailing it on a seat. But there is a risk that, when the Nylon shrank and dried, it would distort or even break the seat frame. A few seat makers use rawhide as seat lacing. I wonder how they judge the tension? It’s easier to just use polypropelene.
Not saying that you are wrong…
…but why do the replacement seats from Old Town and Ed’s Canoe use nylon?
i would love to use poly p, but time (and money) is of the essence, so i guess i will see what happens when the nylon gets wet.
I will check and see what they claim to
be using. As I mentioned, it would be possible to pretension Nylon enough to make up for wet relaxation. But polyester is less sun sensitive and has low wet relaxation, while polypropelene has almost zero wet relaxation.
I have Nylon thigh straps in my decked c-1s, and the first thing I do when cramming my legs under the straps is to dampen the straps so they relax and allow better blood circulation. The relaxation caused by dampening the straps is virtually immediate, and quite significant. Until seeing the strapworks.com site, I did not know how to get wide (2") straps in polyester or polypropelene.
nylon vs polyester
I have easy access to either nylon or polyester webbing.
You can choose polyester which will stretch far less than nylon when dry. Nylon will continue to stretch further when it gets damp.
You can choose polyester which will stay color fast or choose nylon which will fade fairly quickly.
Polyester should be less costly for webbing of equal widths. I see no reason to go nylon(unless you have it on hand and do not have access to polyester, or what am I missing?
…read my previous post about cost and availibity of both locally.
the “standard” Poly P, Polyester and Nylon straps at strapeworks have a very similar “look” in their thread pattern, while the polyester seat belt webbing has a different look. With that being said, the polyester seat belt webbing LOOKS most like what Ed’s and OT have on their replacement seats, at THREE TIMES the price of what I can find locally (either Poly P or Nylon).
everything i can see and read about, poly is the way to go, but it may meet the budget ax this year, and try to get the “wet stretch” prior to installation.
I do have one more possibilty of a local store having something similar to the poly seat belt webbing.
thanks for the advice, y’all!
finished it up yesterday and installed seats in boat today. looking forward to sitting in them while paddling the Okefenokee!
i ended up getting the 1 1/2 inch Polyester seat belt strap from strapworks. it looks really good and very similar to the manufactured webbed seats.
what i learned (for others info):
wasn't as difficult as i imagined. spacing was important but not vital. i consumed most time thinking about what to do and practicing with the soldering gun on a short piece of strap. once i began, it only took about 30 minutes per seat.
the seat belt strapping is built with three parallel threads running the length of the strap. you SHOULD NOT attach through this point; it causes the strap to weaken and rip. i offset the sheet metal screws (3/4" with the hex head for ease of screwing in) on each side of the seat.
as others stated, start with the long ones and then do the short ones and pull as tight as possible; my back is still hurting from that! the only thing that no one mentioned (i don't think) is to start on the outside runs and work your way in to the middle. no need to get the strap too close to the frame edge, i don't think.
as a side, i started on the seat i won't be sitting in (bow seat). will make a good joke for when my mate sits in it for the first time.
thanks for all the help!