Restoring water repellency to drysuit

Largely a waste of time and money
First off “DWR” (Durable Water Repellent) is a myth, if not a lie. The coatings are water repellent, but they have little durability. A friend who owned an outdoor gear store showed me a simple test that shows what a farce the coatings are:



1- Put a few drops of water on a brand new waterproof/breathable garment.



2- Rub the area lightly with your finger. In a matter of seconds, the fabric will wet out.



Any amount of friction or flexing and the factory “DWR” coating is toast. The only thing less durable than the factory coatings are the spray-on aftermarket coatings. In my experience, they last a few minutes at most under actual conditions, making them not worth the time, effort or cost.

eVent
This stuff rules, at least for backpaking. I’ve got one of the first Integral Designs Thruhiker jackets and it is great, super light weight and super breathable (no need for pit-zips). Also much cheaper than Gore ($260 USD).



That said, I don’t know about durabiliy. Might make more sense to trade a few ounces in extra weight if Gore lasts longer in a full dry suit… Time will tell.

Thanks Everybody!
I called Kokatat and the reply I got was very indifferent in terms of which product to use, Nikwax, Rivivex or 303 fabric guard.



I e-mailed Nikwax and got a reply recommending Techwash and TXdirect.



I ordered some with an old EMS gift card I had, so now after reading all the replies, looks like I dropped $18 to give my suit a bath.



I’ll try to reply as to how it turns out.



Thanks for all the replies. I always get more than I bargained for when I ask a question here.

proshell is not xcr…
proshell is much lighter and breathes better in my experience…i have a bunch of proto stuff from gore for over a number of years and it just keeps getting nicer…



r