Drlling thru a roof
Another issue to consider before drilling into your roof is whether you know the exact location of your cars side air bag equipment under the roof
I planned to add Thule brackets like described on this thread at the ends of my Honda Element until I consulted my Element factory manual and saw the side air bag parts sitting under where I planned to drill
I gave up this idea and went with a TPS roof rack instead
Drlling thru a roof
now you’ve gone off the rails
First off, I'm not "obsessed with sports cars". Yes, I like sports cars. But my reference to "sports cars" was to try to get into your thick head that not all roofs on all cars are the same. How many more times do I have to make this point before it sinks in and you stop trying to turn it around on my personal preferences for cars?
Secondly, it's a mighty tall presumption that drilling holes is more sound for ANY car than using a clamp-on rack.
Third, the poster above just told you something else you don't know. But you still seem to think it's hunky-dory to drill any damn holes any damn where in any damn car. As I told you before - knock yourself out. I'd never do it when there are other options that are just as reliable when installed correctly.
At least my "extreme position" has a basis in reality and not unsupportable presumptions.
My past comments about attaching things to roofs were never based on the idea that all vehicles are the same, and I don't understand why you are saying that. The only working premise I've ever had about such things is that a person who is able to improvise and build things can adapt to the job that's at hand, and that nothing about doing one's own work on a car's roof is as impossible or ridiculous an undertaking as you claim (thinking back to an earlier discussion, one example would be that making use of strong points along the edge of the roof makes sense no matter what, even if the actual attachment hardware isn't bought from a store). I think the obvious thing that goes along with all that, is that if a person can't imagine how to go about the details, it's not something they are going to attempt anyway and the advice doesn't apply to them. There's no need to spell out that part though.
I already said clamp-on racks are typically okay, and never said bolted or riveted mounts are universally better or required. I should have been nicer about that sports car comment, but my bottom line was only that gnarlydog's method looks fine to me, and that it doesn't warrant a universal shoot-down, and though I didn't say it, I feel the same about the various bolt-on mounts made by Thule. More than anything, I addressed your reasons for opposition which have no basis in reality or real-life experience (such as the idea that mounting holes will lead to water damage, or to imply that there's no way for a person to even know if a sealing method works). That's just not the same as saying this is appropriate for all situations or that everyone should be doing it.
Another poster here was justified in providing the warning about watching out for air-bag equipment (the fact that it's been mentioned before doesn't mean it isn't worth mentioning again), but just because it wasn't relevant to the point I was making, you felt justified in assuming the worst. To me, making sure that any proposed hole location is safe for drilling is such basic common sense that I wouldn't have dreamed of cluttering up a simple defense of bolted/riveted connections with a description of safe hole-drilling methods. Yet now, your reaction to my lack of mentioning it is to conclude that it could *only* mean that I had no knowledge whatsoever that one needs to be careful of such things. And again, why *is* that? Why must you concoct a context just to be right, when that context isn't justified or even plausible? If someone described how to carry a canoe on a portage trail and didn't mention anything about wearing shoes, would you react as if they didn't know the value of shoes, just so you could feel like you were shooting them down? Try not to be so over-the-top.
personal professional experience
for a while I used to sell and install roof racks when I lived in USA a few years back.
I had Thule and Yakima in the store, Wispbar did not exist then.
I was trained by the reps of corresponding companies to install racks to vehicles.
I rarely felt personally satisfied with the installs that I did for my clients despite following the exact factory instructions. To me the systems seemed very rudimentary and often prone to failure.
Several clients intended to remove the rack while not using it and then re-installing it when needed.
I saw a lot of potential failures where one could just simply not tighten that flimsy bracket well enough and the roof rack could come off.
It is not unheard of roof racks detaching and I have seen one on the side of the highway with items still attached to it once...
I did not want to be that guy.
My critical nature lead me to look for a better and more secure way to a decent roof rack where I could be sure it will stay where I wanted.
The tiny little pads that remain permanently attached to the roof of my car will not devalue resale value, maybe on a Porsche but not on my vehicles. The Wispbar rack will come with me to the next vehicle and all I will need to buy is 4 tiny pads and the special heavy duty pop rivets. No brackets, no incompatibility issues, and above all: a very quiet rack that does not drive me insane with noise/hum any time I get up to speed.
Foam blocks and rope
I know you are looking for a more permanent solution, but your post got me thinking about this old video from Mohawk Canoe from back when they were in located Longwood, FL. I got it around 2005, but I think it dates from the mid-1990s. It has some good tips on tying down boats whether you are using foam blocks and rope, or a rack.
And it cracks me up – we’ve come a long way in the days of YouTube.
me too. posting here as good as any place. Where is best place to buy roof rack suitable for heavier fishing kayak. probably around 75 lbs and just under 12 ft. Looking for something I can solo load and also what kind of mounts i.e. saddle, J, whatever. 2019 Sonata PHEV. If I go with Yakima or Thule or even RHINO. I am thinking I could invert a kayak dolly and push on from rear window, but am a little concerned about damaging the window with that much weight.
Mine is 80# and 14’7” long and I rigged up a DIY device I use. I haul it upside down and can haul 2 at a time if I need to.
not a bad idea. Probably would not work for me as I would have nowhere to haul the two supports unless I lashed them to the rack as well. Another Idea I saw online, was a guy simply took a short ratchet strap assembly and looped it between the two roof rack bars on one side as a means of supporting the front of the kayak while then turning the rear into place.
What you save by not buying the proper rack by Yakima you’ll more than lose when you try to sell it with a rack and holes.
There are aluminum T-rivets that are very strong and will not pull out. I used them to attach a custom ladder rack on my truck bed.
However, I would recommend buying the Yakima rack specifically designed for your vehicle. Drilling through the roof is risky. Are there any wiring or other components under the roof? The roof is probably not designed to carry a load, especially concentrated on just four points. Will waterproofing fail with flexing over time?
We had to sell our old Subaru when salt water rusted out the roof under the factory rails. Most autobody shops will not work on rust and corrosion damage.
My rack is attached to the four factory tapped holes that come with the car and are hidden under removable plastic covers. I have the covers in the glove box and when I snap them back on the car is all factory. 6mm screws if I remember correct.