A couple more thoughts
Random thoughts on this later on -
Many boat hull designs are set up to work with a particular tracking device as part of the design process. So when you choose a boat for its hull performance, to some degree you have already chosen skeg or rudder. Hence the Carolina (older design when rudders predominated) and the Expression (newer design with skegs predominating).
So pick the hull performance and fit first, take whatever tracking device comes with it.
Long camping trips out of a boat - I have run into a cadre of people who would not go without a rudder for this purpose, because they are often committed to fairly long stretches of paddling between camp sites when they are well into a trip and are just plain tired. A rudder is a low-effort way around some issues when you are beat with a fully loaded boat that paddles like the QEII. (Boats tend to get real stable when fully loaded.)
This is also the reason that Kayak Sport makes their longer expedition boats so that they can go with a skeg and an add-on rudder. When the paddling goal is to do stuff like go around Greenland, the need for every possible tool increases.
This is not remotely the OPer’s use of course, I just wanted to mention it. Until you have seat time it is not intuitive to get that turning the boat can primarily be done without a rudder.
Skeg for me
but I’ve hardly ever used it in the 4 years of owning my Impex Montauk.
Two things …
The Carolina of today is not the Carolina of yesterday. It’s a product of complete redesign and recycled name. The new Carolina is a better all around design than the older one, but certainly could account for some confusion in the used boat market. Many people are unaware of this.
The Expression, a new design which incorporates a skeg, is also built rudder ready, so it can be ordered with both or a rudder may be added later on. Several other manufacturers offer boats with both rudder and skeg,or the option of adding a rudder, including some Point 65N and Tahe Marine kayaks.
I would always prefer a rudder equipped tandem kayak - in case the bow paddler wanted to go a different direction than the stern paddler.
I want to see…
someone guiding that couple. 
Thanks for the info on the updates to the Carolina. That said, the reason that I never removed the rudder from the Squall was having word that the rudder was part of CD’s calculations in how the boat tracked even when up. Though a shorter boat could make that a moot point…
The rudder-ready boats, at least the shorter ones, are fuzzy to me in terms of intent. A boat like the Expression is certainly designed for it not to be critical for getting between two points, or it’d be pushed as part of the original package. I wonder if some of this is to make the boats more attractive for fishing purposes, where it can be handy to have a rudder for hands-free correction if you are drifting with the line out.
Personal choice
As a beginner in my Dagger Crossover, I used the skeg,
which was easily removable via a thumbscrew attach.
Over time, I stopped putting it on, as my technique started
to improve and I could control it better.
When I bought my Epic Endurance 18 it had a split-pedal
system allowing solid foot placement and rudder control
via the toes. No squishy constantly moving pedals :-)
The rudder is maybe 1% -2% drag and helps a lot.
Rudder or Skeg?
One advantage to a skeg over a rudder is that if you have to do rescues, especially the ‘cowboy’ stern rescue, where one climbs on the boat from the back towards the cockpit - the rudder may be a bit uncomfortable to crawl over.
I’ve had skegs fail, and its a lot harder to fix something that’s internal than external.
Tracking wise, etc, both are good!
cheers.
Ok , I’ll be the spoil sport here
As one who does an awful lot of off shore paddling, and can get caught in high quartering winds, and strong tides, I wouldn’t have a kayak with out a rudder.
To me it is a safety device and lets you paddle straight on in high quarterting winds.
If I had to make a choice , (which fortunately I don’t have to), I would pick a rudder over a PFD.
With that said, I can and do paddle all day long with my rudder up and not used in good conditions.
The OP doesn’t need a rudder in the conditions he is paddling in, but for others who are considering open water paddling, I strongly suggest you take a skeged boat or a non rudderd boat out in 20 knot quartering winds and see what you thnk.
Jack L
Had both boats in that
And higher. Explorer was in 20 plus knots, winds gusting to 35 mph just feet outside of the somewhat protected path we dug our way up on along shore. It was a v-e-r-y s-l-o-w paddle back to the launch point. What little I recall of the evening when we got back to the cabin revolves around drinking wine, eating bruschetta and talking about making a real dinner. I don’t think we ever actually managed to do it though.
Of course we had to cross to that point near shore - with full skeg down to cross, and then up to let the wind blow the stern around to turn, the boat behaved fine on the crossing. My biggest complaint was paddling into the wind to get home. I expended all of my more colorful language on that part.
Had the Vela in 27 - 28 knots, some gusts higher. With full skeg down the boat took a bit more management than the Explorer - just a less evenly balanced boat to start. But I still had far more serious complaints about paddling against it than the crossing part - in fact we couldn’t. We were out in the open and couldn’t avoid the main blast. Had to go for an alternate landing and get creative about how to get back to the cars.
I have been in crossing and quartering winds in both a skegged and a ruddered boat, since I have owned both. I honestly can’t say that the rudder or the skeg made any particular diff. It has been the basic hull design that has mattered more.
If circumnavigating a continent,
or racing, in a tandem, or fishing, I would likely appreciate a rudder.
I’ve been in a skegged boat in high wind conditions, strong quartering seas etc… and did not wish for a rudder. I found the boat/hull design made the biggest difference.
I’ve seen rips in flesh and gear that rudders can cause in rescues and think them far more of a danger than an aid in conditions.
Even “flat” rivers may require edging
Even flat rivers might have some current. At some point, you will encounter a place with stronger local currents and eddylines.
That is one reason why you should learn to edge your boat well, period.
That way, even if you normally use a rudder to steer, you have a very important skill in place already. Being able to edge well means that if your rudder fails, you can still maneuver the boat without relying 100% on your paddle to force it around.
My first boat was ruddered, and I hated the rudder. All boats since have had either a skeg or nothing. The rudder didn’t do anything I couldn’t do without it, in my subsequent boats.
A rudder gets in the way of one form of cowboy re-entry, as others have mentioned. Another thing I HATED about rudders was that even when bungied into its “off” position notch for transportation, strong winds could actually make it jump out of the notch. Then, many miles later at a rest stop, I would get out and curse at that damn flaggy object swiveling around. It even happened on the trailer, though it was most likely to happen on the rooftop.
And I really, really, really hated the sliding footpegs that typically come with a rudder. Good riddance forever!!!
Rudder or skeg?
Ok, I’ve also read that the skeg is spring-loaded. Is it possible to retract it without getting out of the boat or once it’s been extended is it just out?
Not spring loaded
Boats with a skeg have a slide bar next to the cockpit to deploy and to retract the skeg. No need to get out of the boat.
Ordering of skills, experience
Paddle mostly without using a skeg or rudder and be sure you are confident of controlling your boat in a variety of situations. Then use your rudder or skeg when you need to but not as a routine practice. The point is, controlling your boat without a skeg or rudder is a skill that needs regular practice. Occasionally using a skeg or rudder does need some practice because it is sometimes important. So, keep up the skills that need practice. Don’t foolishly discard help from a device if conditions become truly difficult.
prijon gas pedal style rudder system
the foot pegs are solid and do not slide inside your kayak causing you to bend your knees when using them they are super easy to install and deal with in generall, they dont leak, I have heard many complaints about skeg boxes leaking and leting water into your “dry storage”, but the thing that really makes or brakes it for me is simply the storage capacity being compromised by the skeg box they suck in comparison when packing for camping trips, and thats what I love to do the most in my kayak.handling wise I found both to be awsome in crazy winds and storms and all that crap, but like someone else mentioned when your beat tired and paddling with a full load you’ll appreciate the rudder
also I find paddling down stream in rivers when your just drifting it’s a nice little novelty as well.oh ya skegs tend to get sticky and act up from salt water,sand etc…
cheers.
"the storage capacity being compromised"
Actually, the storage capacity you lose with a skeg is tiny. You can easily overcome this with smart packing. It may look like a lot but it isn’t.
My Artisan Millenium
has a small hatch near the stern which serves as extra storage as well as skeg box access. Nice feature.
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2532786690041263145qIfety