Most of the suggestions contained in the replies thus far are now incorporated into the web page. I really appreciate the suggestions.
Some elaboration on two of the tips contained on the tips page:
1) I recognize that some kayaks have end toggles and cord that are too weak to carry the kayak (e.g., the older NDK kayaks), and accordingly added a tip about how to carry a kayak. The photo is also changed.
However, a kayak with a toggle too weak to carry the boat or use as a tow attachment point has either a design or manufacturing flaw. No good engineer would design something that looks and feels like a carrying handle but isn't one, especially in our legal world of 'foreseeable misuse'. With today's strong cords, such as Spectra cord, there is little reason to continue under-arm carries with most modern kayaks.
2) On paddles: I, too, have read books advising to use a paddle as a push-pole, but still think that's bad advise. A paddle can last for many years if it almost never comes into contact with anything except water and one's hands when paddling.
About the older NDK kayak comment My oldest boat is an NDK kayak, and the toggle rope is/was no weaker than any other of the several kayaks in the basement. The finish inside the track has been an issue in some, so the rope wears faster, but that isn’t about the rope. It’s about QC and/or the user’s desire to sand that down a bit. They aren’t the only kayaks I’ve seen with imprefect finishes there. That toggle loop has since been replaced with a single line to get the loop out of it, but the rope was still fine.
I’d still rather have people carry my glass boats primarily underhand, having already had to do one major gel coat repair along the keel. A hand under and one on the perimeter line or backing up on the toggle gives two points of contact rather than just one on the toggle. But that’s selfish on my part.
When traveling on un-even ground (read: rocks covered by seaweed, I found carrying by the toggle is easier and safer, for both the carrier AND THE BOAT.
The rope provides a bit of "shock absorbing" effect, and allowing the boat and the carrier to move independently. Much less likely to dump the boat due to un-sure footing.
When I help carry other people's boat, I watch what they do to see if they have preference. My boat? I carry them by the toggle. After 2 years of use, I saw no sign of wear. So I'm not convinced the need to NOT do it. (the only exception is when it's loaded with camping gear, then it's arm-under ONLY)
Good support for toggle carry Abc, your message provides compelling support for toggle carries. Accordingly, I’ve revised that tip (again) to read:
“Most, but not all, bow and stern toggles are designed for carrying a boat and can be used as a towing attachment point. With toggles, the boat is carried safely close to the ground and moves independently of the people carrying. However, an under-arm carry of kayaks is often best if toggles are weak, hands are wet, or the kayak is heavy with gear. When helping a friend carry, follow their lead on whether to hold the toggle or boat.”
smokers Smokers should be cognizant that the vast majority of paddlers are not and that their habit, if undertaken while on the water or during reststops/lunch, has a pronounced effect on those attempting to enjoy the great outdoors and the “clean” air. The tossing of the butts in the water is more than just an eyesore.
toggles I prefer not to rely solely on the toggles because the lines do snap from time to time. And it ain’t just an NDK issue. The day I bought my Force, the rear end toggle snapped as I picked it up. Fortunately, it was only a couple of inches above relatively soft ground, and no damage was done.
If conditions are such that carrying the boat by the hull alone is risky, I adopt a simple solution – one hand under the hull, one hand on a toggle.