Sea Rider - tom Yost

right reasons?
The yost boat is going to be a very similiar construction to the whisper in so far as it uses forms and the wood fits into the notches in much the same way that the aluminum tubing snaps into the hdpe. the only difference is that you glue the wood together and it probably wouldn’t hurt to countersink a brass screw for strength and rigidity. Having had no experience in building, the yost boat seemed to be a viable first step for me.

I don’t really want a folder right now. If I was going to go for the portability I would either go for a khatsalano or I would get one of the three piece valley boats.



You said intended use.? What does that mean? Obviously the expense of going to japan and getting a high end boat is not unfeasible. Why not just have someone build you a boat that you want. Lots of great boat builders out there.



With a non folding wooden frame boat I guess you could put a zippered skin on it but that seems silly to me. I would want the tightest skin I could get.



Paul



Kris doesn’t understand why I don’t just build a traditional skin boat. I don’t either other than I am very aware that most first builds end up as either wall ornaments or rotting inthe back yard. After I get some experience cutting and working with wood I will build a traditional boat.



Paul

Methods
The Yost methods/components are so different I can’t see much that will carry over. Maybe not a stepping stone as you describe it, but certainly good and rewarding in it’s own way - and should get you a decent boat in less time.



A wood Yost is all offset plans, plywood, and power saws. My build was all about planes & spokeshaves, Japanese hand saws, mortising, steam bending, and lashing. All learned as I went.



You seem to think I had some woodworking skills/tools when I decided to build. I can assure you I did not. The pine recipe card box I made in shop class for Mom back in '75, or the bit’s of framing/roofing carpentry I’ve done provided no special skills/insights. I’d never used a plane before, never cut a mortise/tenon, never even used a Japanese pull saw. I’m just crazy enough to assume I can do what others can.



The books are a bit daunting/overwhelming (I had them for months before starting. I have still not read any of them through). Actually building was not like that at all. Just a series small easy steps. The toughest part being decisions about which methods to use as there are so many options. My neighbors no doubt appreciated the minimal use of power tools. I liked the redundancy/genius of a more traditional frame and the small simple parts that let me stop and start very easily, use small bits of time, etc. Definitely a good bit of work in all though.



Yours seems much more straight forward. Cut out components/assemble/skin/paddle! Hard not to like that!



How’s it coming? Very curious to see/feel that type of frame.



You’re going to have to come up with some pretty good bribery on the skinning part. It’s not hard, but I’m in no hurry to do it again. Watching someone else do it (even someone as charming as you - and even with Brazilian food in the mix) is more boring than watching paint dry! It does take some time.



I like to do mine in phases rather than non-stop. Usually over 2-3 days. I could do it all in one long day, but I can only sew effectively for so long at a stretch.



Last one went something like this: Day one (Sunday): Stretch on and pin ends. Let it acclimate a bit and re-stretch it. Pin along the keel. Stretch up sides and pin along gunwales. Take a break (should need one after all the pulling). Then do a rough trim, a zig/zag lacing to draw it together a bit and sew running stitch on rear deck. Day two Monday evening): Final trimming/edge seal aft. Roll, and double whip stitch. Break. Rough trim and running stitch forward (no lacing needed on mine). Break. Final trim, roll, double whip. Day three (Tuesday eve): Sew coaming hoop, steam shrink skin. Let dry. I had to wait until next day to get 1st coat on as I ran out of daylight and wanted to play with color.



I hope your heavier fabric is as easy to work with as the 8oz was, and the lines of the frame allow the sort of wrinkle and dart free result I managed. If not - no problem, just time to improvise. The biggest difference for the skin is your coaming. Mine is attached to skin only. It rests on masik and deck beam. I’ll have to see how yours is made and goes on to see what if anything has to be done differently.



I may just I help you get started (stretching) and show you the full sewing method on a small test piece. That way you can tackle it in sections at whatever pace you need to and I won’t have to move in.

Skin
I used 8 oz nylon from Dyson - and Zar Exterior oil based Urethane. Same cloth twice now, different urethanes. The Zar skin has a rubberier feel than the first stuff I used.



There are MANY good options for skin/coating combos. Choice depends on several factors.


your room is all ready
P

pics sent out
any of you guys that asked for them get them?



Paul

backing out on me huh?
Can’t even hold your wing hostage as I dropped it off at Charlies along with the vids.



gotta find something else to entice you with then.



Seriously. I wil read and try to do it myself. I woudl assume I will be able to stretch and pin it properly. My biggest concern is the stitching process you use to get that perfectly straight line.



Paul

It’s not straight
It’s just straight enough. Really curvy seams look cool to.



My rear deck floats 3/4" above my deck beams so I slide a long piece of wood there - lined up on center - to follow as I sew. Better than a string as it doesn’t move around ansd I can follow by feel as much as sight. Not needed - but easy helpful.



Your frame’s different - but you should be able to do something similar. You have longer spans between cross members so having something to follow would help even more.



I can help get you going - but may not be in for the whole thing. Like I said - it can take a while. I don’t know of a quicker method, but haven’t tried others either.

ripped
pine ripped toproper dimensions. safely home and sitting on top of the strongback. Now it is going to start taking shape.



Paul