Easy once the hurricanes let up!
Info and pictures
Easy once the hurricanes let up!
that first rib at the bow is notched?
Now for my next one I will have you give a class so I can actually build one for me. Except that I will want a baidarka for speed, hauling lots of weight, and touring.
We can make two! (figure you already have the tools anyway.
(I’ll talk you into it eventually!)
any word from our friends at Northern? the sprayskirt?
Bit of everything
It has every possible type of rib! Plain bent ones, bent with shims, two piece bent, and two piece straight! Whatever it takes to get teh lines I wanted.
Our akuilisaqs (akiulisat?) are coming via Priority Mail to my work address. We were closed today. Hopefully tomorrow… (though I’m out in the afternoon).
Don’t even talk to me about building any more yet! I want to get back to PADDLING!
Though I have been thinking that one of the three species of mangrove here has got to produce decent small round Baidarka ribs. Tough, and they grow straight shoots. Red Mangrove has them hanging down, Black Mangrove shoots up rods a lot like Willow…
No, don’t get me started! L Look at my frame - I’ve already applied some Bairadka thinking, and really don’t need one. Except for lack of flex, my QCC 700 is very baidarka like too.
Well that’s almost as pretty as the
Victoria Secret models that keep popping up around it (on webshots).
if that were mine, i’d just want to leave it naked so i could admire the handiwork on the structure for a while :-).
assuming, of course, said admiration period did not cut into paddling time.
great job, greyak, i’ll know where to go if i ever need mentoring.
Now just get AutoEXPAND, plug in the numbers and we have the plywood version…
Plywood? Any fool can cut plywood! L
With a one-off SOF - I know no one else can just get the kit. Geez man, even Jim3727 has a plywood boat!
I actually started out designing for S&G. Decided I could live, eat and sleep with wood shavings and sawdust in my tiny APT a lot better than resin and glass. SOF is easier to go bit by bit and leave it if needed.
Pretty simple matter to get offsets and put into Hulls or some other program though - IF this beast turns out to be a decent paddle. Near 20’ and narrow makes for a lot of scarfs and touchy panels too.
I wanted something different. EVERYONE has S&G boats now! At least among the more Greenland style paddlers from W Palm through Miami. Some real nice LV boats too. Last we met up though, they were all back in their glass boats!
Looks Very Pretty Kris
You really completed the frame quickly. Looks like a deep V with a chine in the bow section going to a rounded bottom in the mid section. 19 and change by less than 19 really is long and narrow.
Cant wait to see pictues of the completed project.
Very very nice
What material did you use for the stitches? What kind of wood? Looks like 3 different varities.
Form AND Function
Beautiful lines on that craft; many congratulations. The high peaked foredeck reminds me of the Kirton Inuk, but it has a blend of Greenland inspired rolling boat and performance sea kayak cues as well. Very curious to see it skinned (it has great ‘bones’) and hear your assessment of its paddling performance. Keep us posted, Kris. Extremely well done.
After I drew up what I wanted I compared lines (top and side only on most) to several professionally designed boats - Including the Inuk. Of commercial boats it is probably closest. Mine’s a bit more swede, longer, more overhang, littel lower foredeck. Also compares well with the “Njord” - a somewhat LV fast tourer from Sweden. Looked at the “Nordic Arrow” some more rolling specific Greenland hulls, and pure racers like Nick Shade’s Mystery, the new KayakPro Vampire too.
With everyone I compared, I liked what I had come up with more. I surprised me how well they all compared - particularly since I referenced no other boats specifically while designing - just what i like, what made sense as gleaned from various design articles, what I’d fit, and what I wanted it to do. Comparing the lines is what finally gave me the confidence that it might not be too bad and got me off my butt and the design off the computer screen.
Of course as a sort of personal benchmark my QCC 700. An image of that:
The side by side pictures of the frame and QCC in the other thread are more telling. I still have the images of the others with my lines overlaid but don’t post them in case anyone has issues with me using their images - or think I did anything other than just compare after the fact.
SOF’s hull is a little deeper than originally drawn, and the gunwales aft of the cockpit faired in a couple cm about halfway to the stern (wood knows best). Otherwise it’s remarkably true to the dimensions in the original drawings. Not very traditional, but having a drawing to reference definitely helped me with the build.
But the big question remains: How will it paddle?
Gunwales are select pine from decent lumber yard. 1x6 with mirror grain pattern ripped down the middle. A 16’ and 8’ then scarfed together.
Flat deck beams and foredeck stringers are select clear pine 1x2s from Home Depot.
Stringers are off the shelf pine 1x1 (3/4" square) from lumber yard. Again, scarfed for longer pieces needed.
Stem and stern are pine.
Deck plates are (?) a small board I had laying around, that covering a broken window slat after hurricane Wilma for a while - then used on the boat. Might be cedar - very aromatic when cut.
Ribs are a mix of white and red oak. Pegged with bamboo skewers
Floor boards and aft deck stringers are white oak.
Masik, knee brace, and foot brace are solid ash.
Coaming is white oak.
Some dowels too - had birch, then found some oak which I wish I’d used everywhere.
Deck lines will be leather, sliders probably walnut.
Lashing are artificial sinew (waxed nylon).
Skin will be 8oz junior ballistic nylon with oil based urethane coating. Skin will be sewn with 30 lb braided fishing line. Coaming may get sewn on with a little bigger polyester -like commonly used to stitch leather with an awl.
That should be about it.
Hope you know I’m kidding about S&G
Real reson for doing SOF is one part curiosity and one part being too lazy to make a hardshell!
How long did you stand over the pile
of 1" X 2"s at H.D. ???
Q: Why not waxed sailmakers thread instead of "Fishing Line"?
will stop the urethane from bonding with the thread. After the thing is sew up with polyester thread and is painted with a couple or several layers of urethane, the sewing thread, holes, and skin sort of all bond together. No longer able to pull the thread out. Would have to cut apart.
Like Sing said, unwaxed because PU finish won't adhere to the wax. Though not a major issue, and soem do use waxed, I want the seam as sealed as possible.
Stuff I may use for the coaming is waxed and more like what you're thinking. A also have a small spool of sail stuff somewhere.
The fishing line is high quality braided stuff, much nicer than other stuff I looked at, and recommend by several...
No problem picking wood at HD. Easiest part of getting materials actually I just stuck to the select/clear pine and paid a little more. Plenty of suitable stuff. The flat deck beams don't need to be super specific anyway. Only need to be picky for gunwales and rib stock (after much experimentation, I can report that grain is the single most important factor in bending).
Where I'll need to spend time picking boards is if I start looking for decent WRC to carve a GP. Most likely will need to buy a much larger piece than needed to get a good section.
That’s going to be a gorgeous boat!!!
Not that important but have you decided the color?
I personally think blank sof’s are beautiful but do you want to paddle a black kayak in South FL?
Ah Mario - you’ve struck upon my dilemma!
Can you imagine how bad ass a nearly 20’ x 19" boat would look in black!
But, as you note - I’d roast alive (and before you Northerners go on about “rotocooling”, keep in mind our COLDEST water temps are 68-72 degrees and get to near 90 in Summer - hardly refreshing enough to compensate).
Bright white also not bad - but blinding and hides the frame.
Pretty sure I’ll opt for no color. Clear urethane over white nylon - which should yield a translucent golden color. I could add pigment to go for a more “skin” look - but will just darken and add heat.