Solo reentry balance question

one vote for the cowboy reentry
…if it works for you. If you can mount your deck from the water, the rest is relatively easy.

Correct
The conditions that dump you will probably prevent a self rescue unless you drift to gentler conditions. I’ve done paddle float rescues in 4’ waves, it actually works, I’ve also attempted pf rescue in 2’ breaking waves and it’s not possible. By the boats nature one is in control when in the kayak, so the goal should be staying in the kayak. Learn to roll, get better at bracing, etc.

Pf self rescue takes a huge amount of energy compared to rolling.



The time and effort it takes to get decent at pf self rescue in a range of conditions isn’t much different than learning to roll.



Wrt your tippiness issue when turning over my experience teaching is that people would transfer their weight in extremes. First they put too much weight on the paddle shaft then they swing a lot of weight on the kayak then push-up vertically away from the kayak while turning over which is kind of like twirling a barbell.

What I tried to show was a little weight ALWAYS on the paddle with whatever body part making and transferring contact smoothly. Keep your gut pressed into the back deck so that when you turn over your ALWAYS pressing into the kayak.

In other words the balance of weight on paddle and kayak doesn’t change as you turn over and slide into the kayak, your contact with the paddle changes. That’s why I prefer learning the pf rescue without using the rigging. By holding the shaft at the coaming and pressing your body onto the shaft at the coaming you maintain weight where it’s best supported on the kayak while keeping your weight tight and low.

Seems to me relying on rigging allows a big hinge to open up as opposed to putting your weight where it works. Also having the paddle free enables you to immediately swing it forward for active bracing as opposed to hinging away on the deck.



When I first learned a pf rescue I only practiced a few times and it’s shortcomings weren’t evident until I actually practiced in the conditions that would dump me, breaking waves. Thereafter I doubled up rolling practice and discovered I hadn’t learned to brace well until I learned to roll.



$.02 paddle floats are a sales aid for selling kayaks. Instead of learning to roll, buy a paddle float. They have all kinds of utility for solo paddling and assisting injured paddlers but I’d look at them as a device motivating one to learn rolling.

Pretty much
And keep your weight pressed into the kayak. The problem is weight shifting around all over the place.

It should
work as you intend.



You could attach a stirrup to the paddle, as long as you can keep the paddle tethered/connected to the boat. The most reliable approach for something like this might well be hardware to attach the paddle to the boat, but I have done the following when diving off the kayak.



Attach a float on each end of the paddle

Strap the paddle to the paddle using tie-downs (run under the boat).

Attach stirrup to paddle



This works quite well (the stirrup is optional for those who don’t need same) and is very stable. The outrigger system is easy to set up and implement, but there are some issues of which to be aware.


  1. Be certain that the tie-down release is on top of the boat. It is not likely to work well if you have to reach over the side to release the strap.
  2. If conditions are rough, it is annoying, at best, to have to release two paddle floats on opposite sides of the boat. Best to button up, lean to one side while holding the paddle (off hand lean with paddle held under armpit) and release the strap and remove the float.
  3. Deflate and stow float under lines.
  4. Remove and stow 2nd float.



    It won’t be quick and easy, but it works.



    Rick

re-enter roll with float
Under waves up to 2 foot or so cowboy scramble is fine but if its really wavy 4 footer I found paddle float attached to my greenland paddle then re-enter and roll. You CANT miss a roll with a big paddle float attached. If you cant do it that way you shouldn’t be out there in those conditions EVER. The tricky part is holding onto paddle with float attached and re-entering. With a greenland paddle I find it easy, not sure I could do that with a regular paddle.



A regular paddle float rescue should be almost automatic under calm conditions if you will have any hope to do it under rough conditions. Sounds like your just getting it under ideal calm conditions. Get it down pat before trying it under rough water.

Heel Hook variation
The link below will take you to a video of a heel hook variation on the paddle float reentry. It requires significantly less strength and balance than a normal, rear deck paddle float reentry, and you get your bottom back in the seat very quickly.



http://theartofpaddling.com/2013/07/08/paddling-tips-the-heel-hook-paddle-float-reentry/



For those who question the paddle float’s utility and practicality in rough water, it is certainly dubious for conditions in which you haven’t practiced. However, with practice, I find that the heel hook variation is quite reliable across a wide range of conditions. It’s not my primary rescue and I have other options that are faster and easier, including rolls, reenter and rolls, and scramble/cowboy reentries. But if I’m unable to perform any of those due to injury, illness, or exhaustion, the paddle float offers viable alternatives in all but the worst conditions.

of course the R&R is better
Once you learn that you likely never go back to the cowboy reentry. But between cowboy and paddle float reentry I’ll take the former any day.

great last paragraph^

Excellent video, thanks!
I will definitely try this.

Nice video
Thats one of the better videos out there. Thats exactly how I do mine. Thanks for the link.