sponsons

Advice
#21

He would STILL need a boat that…
… can be climbed back into somehow. That can’t be done with the boat he is talking about right now unless he modifies it with sponsons. Tbat’s why I vote for a boat that won’t tip and that he won’t fall out of, but one that he COULD get back into for that one-in-a-million freak accident (since we are talking about only calm conditions).

#22

sponsons
thanks for your continuing input–i’m deciding against the discovery 119.



the reviews for the old town guide 147 sound good. here’s the manufacturer’s description:



“Our Guide canoes represent a breakthrough in design and construction, using a special adaptation of our PolyLink3 process that provides a durable, stiff and affordable canoe. With its unique cross-section and stabilizing chines, the Guide 147 delivers exceptional stability, as well as rugged durability. And its sharp entry provides a surprisingly efficient paddling canoe. Stable enough for fishing or nature watching, yet versatile enough for family outings - all at an affordable price!”



http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/generalFamily/guide_147.html



assuming the guide 147 is a suitable boat, i’m thinking of adding sponsons (not outriggers) to increase the margin of safety. please let me know your thoughts on this.



regarding survival clothing: might be kind of hot in the summer. the air warms up around here during the summer but the ocean stays cold.



my first line of defense is to keep the boat from capsizing.



best,

bill

#23

Clarifying Terminology (just in case)

– Last Updated: Mar-06-10 12:33 PM EST –

I'm not sure if your comment about not using outriggers might have been in response to some of my earlier comments. In case they were, let me clarify that I was referring to the possibility of putting your oarlocks on outriggers so that the oars don't hit your sponsons when angled down into the water sharply. Such outriggers might put the oarlock 8 to 12 inches outside of the gunwales. You can build your own, and even incorporate them into the sponsons. Some store-bought rowing-conversion rigs for canoes have rather long outriggers on which the oarlocks are mounted, and that would solve two problems at once, clearing the sponsons and setting up the boat for rowing.

#24

Oars for That Boat

– Last Updated: Mar-06-10 2:25 PM EST –

Now that you are looking at a boat that's 38 inches wide, I'd suggest 8-foot oars. That's a whole lot longer than most people would ever consider using. With oars having a "standard" ratio of inboard length to outboard length (this ratio usually doesn't vary by much from what I've seen, unless you use clamp-on oarlocks that can be positioned anywhere), you will have a few inches of overlap at the handles when rowing, but that's easy to get used to (there will be no overlap at all if you mount the oars on small outriggers). You will get far more response from every stroke than with the usual 6-footers, and that makes a big difference over any kind of distance.

This has nothing to do with sponsons, but as someone who rows hundreds of miles a year, I hate to see people using crappy oars simply because rowing of canoes and canoe-like boats simply isn't popular enough for "what works" to be commonly known. Rowers of racing and fitness boats don't face that same problem when choosing gear.

#25

Uh-Oh, I see a problem

– Last Updated: Mar-06-10 2:17 PM EST –

I just looked at pictures of the Guide 147. Unless you row the boat from one end, with ballast at the other to maintain trim, that center thwart will prevent you from using oars. You'll need to add a center seat AND remove that center thwart. A specially designed seat can take over the thwart's job, but since the seat must be very low for rowing, building it will be a job for someone who's pretty clever about such things. I hope that describes you! Otherwise, this might be a good place for an aftermarket rowing conversion, where the seat and outriggers for the oars are all one piece, clamped to the gunwales. That will do the job of the center thwart as well.

#26

sponsons
thanks guideboatguy, your advice is great and much appreciated.



i’d wondered about oar length; now i know to go with 8’–so now i can justify some really nice wood ones.



when i mentioned outriggers, instead i should have said: “pontoon/stabilizer contraptions that have zero appeal”.



but speaking of outriggers, i’ve seen some beautiful bronze outriggers that cost $450 the pair…someday, maybe.



i’ve been focusing on old town canoes because they have at least some accommodation for rowing. they offer a reinforced center seat that replaces the center thwart on their boats. adds about $150 cost. they also offer hardware to lower the seats.



the old town osprey is set up for rowing.



http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/generalFamily/osprey_140.html



thanks again for your knowledgeable advice!



best,

bill