A little moral support
In general I agree with some other responses that the paddler’s skills can have a large effect on the boat’s performance. I don’t think anyone would argue however,that different boat designs have different characteristics in the water. I’ve owned a Capella 166 for 6 years and find it to be a VERY weather “cocky” design compared to other boats.
paddling on weather side
– Last Updated: Aug-11-10 11:20 AM EST –
There is nothing unusual in what you are describing. I like Nigel Foster's explanation of weather cocking. As you gain forward speed, the bow is sharp and pinned by the bow wave. A side wind can't move it much. But the stern is in turbulent water and can be moved very easily by the wind from the side. So the boat tends to spin to windward.
A good forward stroke provides more forward impetus than spin, so paddling on the weather side is not the way to counter the weathercocking.
If you want to correct weather cocking with a stroke, you want to do it towards the stern, since it is the stern that is sliding away in weather cocking. A quick stern draw on the windward side (at the end of a forward stroke) is good for that. A forward stroke near the bow won't do much.
One way to counter weathercocking with boat design is to build in a deep sharp "skeg" into the stern - but now it is hard to break the tail loose and turn. You have a skeg that can be trimmed for just enough anti-weathercocking as you need. It takes a while to learn how to trim.
The weather cocking should seldom if ever be so hard that you could not counter it short term with a strong edge and a control stroke. I've had the poly Capella out in much stronger conditions than you describe and found no problem trimming the skeg to get the boat to hold any course I wanted. I think it will be just a matter of time - and don't be shy about using the skeg.
good explanation
Stern can be more locked in by body positioning
And, body position can really change the way a boat handles.
My paddling friend had identical boat, same year, same material, same manufacturer. My copy paddled like s–t in the following seas, was not as responsive as his. Took me quite a few paddles to collect enough impressions to notice this - conditions are always different. Long story short - eventually I was able to get them side by side. What do you know, the factory installed seat in my boat was aft of his seat by 1 inch. Problem solved, knowledge gained 
Thanks for that
After a career in marine engineering that included many hours as a test boat driver, followed by years as a development technician, along with 30+ years canoeing from the Florida swamps to the Boundary Waters,I feel that I know a little something about how boats work.
However, I’ll be the first to admit that I lack the level of proficiency as a kayaker that many of the people on this forum have. I intend to work on that, and I appreciate everyone’s comments and suggestions.
stern draw
Bob… thanks for those suggestions. A stern draw at the end of the forward stroke on the windward side is something I will try. The bow sweep did not seem very effective, and it makes sense that the stern is skidding downwind.
And yes, the weathercocking is happening in either direction. I really don’t think my forward stroke technique is that bad…
I’m really beginning to wonder if the Capella was the best choice for me. These fairly big, frequently windy lakes like Bull Shoals have me wanting a boat that tracks well. I looked back over my earlier thread when I was inquiring about the Capella, among others, and sure enough the hints were there that it was more “turny” than some other boats. It’s my own fault that I didn’t heed, or didn’t fully understand that advise.
Feet twisting
– Last Updated: Aug-12-10 8:42 AM EST –
You can do the cowboy reentry using the paddle float too if needed in rougher conditions. If you're tall, you may be mounting the kayak too close to the cockpit. I'm 6'2" and I have to make sure I jump on the kayak a decent distance down from the opening and then I can turn my feet over. If I get too close, it not only makes for an awkward position to enter into the cockpit but crams my feet in too far for an easy turn-around.
I like the cowboy entree too but never assume I can do it on my boat without a float in anything but calm conditions.
I prefer turny
I would much rather have a turny boat in choppy, windy conditions. Try turning around to go help someone behind you in a tracky boat in those conditions and you’ll see what I mean. Give the Capella a chance. Personally, I hate real tracky boats.
Agree
– Last Updated: Aug-12-10 1:26 PM EST –
Give yourself some time in the Capella and I think you will eventually love it. Learn to use the skeg to trim the boat so that you tack the tail down just enough to keep your course. Learn to use edging and strokes for fine adjustments.
When learning the stern draw, be ready for possible immersion - you are in a somewhat committed position and want to keep the edge to windward. Nigel Foster's DVD on directional control is a good reference for learning the stroke. Rotate towards the side, drop your elbow near your side, and try to get a feel like you are squeezing a beach ball between your paddle and stern. Like all strokes, try to use your core muscles rather than your arms and shoulders. It is a cool stroke, but takes some practice, and there is the potential for tripping up while learning. Be sure that you are opening up the power face a bit to the "oncoming" water rather than the back of the paddle.
You could also use a stern pry on the other side, but that will slow you down more. But once you have the skeg trimmed to the right level for your course, the boat should feel pretty neutral. If you are fighting weathercocking, lower the skeg. If you are fighting lee cocking, raise the skeg a bit. You will eventually find the trim.
You can get used to it …
… in one of my boats I had to spend considerable energy fighting weathercocking. These days I hardly notice it! Granted, it is still there (the boat is the same) but I’ve learned to control it efficiently.
Still, if I had a choice I’d do something to the boat to eliminate that tendency, and I’ve done - small add-on strip of a skeg about 1-2" deep and about a foot long does the trick. That does not get in the way of beach landings too much either and seems to slide over rocks just fine.
If you are going to be paddling mostly A to B though, you would probably prefer a strong tracking boat over a playful one…
Well, there’s that…
I have more wiggle room - in all sense - to manage this stuff at my height than a 6 foot plus guy does. That said, I was in a class in moderate swells - longer stuff so not steep but still there - where the first guy back in his boat after a planned capsize and wet exit was the one who did a cowboy. It turned out he was relatively new to paddling but taking the training part pretty aggressively, so he ended up in a class where participants would normally be able to roll. But he hadn’t scheduled his rolling class until two weeks later, so he was improvising with the cowboy until that.
The ocean swells were typical of a fairly moderate day on a large somewhat protected bay.