Thule Areo bars
are all aluminum and stainless and don’t rust one bit. That’s the way it is with any rack, if it’s metal it will rust and it cost less… when I bought mine yakama didn’t even offer aluminum racks…
What? WHAT!?
Did you just say that a “name brand” rack is… OVERPRICED???
And CRAP???
Hmmmmmmmm, sounds familiar… Doesn’t it? Now who was it that has been saying that for about 12 years here on p.net? Let me think… Can’t put my finger on it…
Paddle easy,
Coffee
Fastening hardware or crossbars only?
– Last Updated: Sep-30-10 3:52 PM EST –
The topic of rusting is normally in regard to fasteners, and I don't know if I'd want to put my faith in aluminum nuts and bolts. They would need to be greatly over-sized to be as strong as steel, which is probably why I've never seen such a thing. Aluminum crossbars I understand, but it does nothing to address the real problem, and in my opinion, making cross bars out of aluminum seems like a waste of money since the steel ones are coated and don't rust much in the first place, and even if they do there's no harm done (they still can be removed from their mounts).
More on rusted parts
I wouldn’t have bothered to mention this, but since the rust and aluminum topic came up and there have been lots of comments in past discussions about rusted bolts, here’s something to consider.
Putting a little grease on the threads and slip surfaces of nuts and bolts works wonders. This makes perfect sense of course, but by way of example, when I’ve greased the threads of bolts on automotive suspension parts (after the need to resort to drastic and destuctive methods when taking the rusted connections apart the first time), subsequent disassembly many years later has always been a breeze, in spite of all the road salt those parts are exposed to. I usually grease any kind of threaded connections that will be out in the weather, and I’ve yet to have one seize up. Same goes for roof-rack hardware, and my rack is usually on all winter long and gets coated with road salt.
good suggestion
Nice solid advice on the grease.
I’m surprised when people are surprised that their metal parts get rusty. Yeah, it’s metal. It sits outside all day every day. It’s gonna rust.
The suggestion for stainless bolts is good, but if you think these things are expensive now, they’re not going to get any cheaper with stainless.
As for the OP’s lost fit kit tightening bolt, I’d follow Marshal’s suggestion. Speaking from experience, your local shop will probably have some spares in a bin and will just give it to you because they won’t know what to charge for it anyway.
Available on website
If you go to this link, http://www.thule.com/en/US/Support/Product%20Support.aspx, it will take you to a screen where you can order spare parts. They seem to be reasonably priced (surprise!) and from my experience in retail, thule has been very quick to ship.
That said, our store had a spare parts box with just such stuff included. You may want to check your local Thule retailer first.
dude
the aluminum crossbars don’t rust and have all stainless hardware. I use simple foam blocks for my glass Valley 99% of the time. I also have the J racks but they are metal and I remove them when not in use. I agree stainless would be best but steel racks are going to rust in no time flat around here and Thule makes the best bars and mounting system for my car and bolt straight to the railing with stainless hardware.
Especially so for dissimilar metals
Does the image of sweat dripping onto a bike headset bring fond memories of “conversion” to one-piece headtube/steerer assemblies?
Salty water is tough on metals, and if you are threading (or clamping or otherwise fitting together) one type of metal to another type of metal, definitely grease the threads before use. Regardless what brand or what application.
I think you put your finger on it
all five