There was likely a foam piece a couple inches thick glued in behind the seat that trapped the air where the hatch is. That might have got pulled out and never replaced. They sometime leak around the edges.
As to the trapped water and no plug I’m a little surprised they didn’t put a drain plug as most rec-kayaks have one high on the hull on one end or the other. My canoe would even hold some water in the gunwales when stored upside down and I just drilled a .25” hole close to the end on the top of the deck. It is not like there isn’t a huge hole (The cockpit) that can let water in from the top so what can a couple small holes hurt to drain the inverted lip that holds water when you hose it out.
Painter lines are just a couple ropes attached to each end that help you manage the boat when you are not in it. Used to tie it to a dock or if you get into a stream to shallow to paddle you can use them walk/line your kayak thru those spots. If you find yourself trying to swim into shore with your kayak it is much easier if you have a line. I use ours where we take out there is a steep muddy bank and I get on top and drag the boats up the hill with the painter. Mine I put a small float on the ends and also tied a loop.
I would say the larger person would want to be in the back seat where the balance/trim would be best and also it might have more legroom. It should be pretty easy if using solo to move the front seat to the middle and the back seat could be even removed if you wanted a true solo.
Without some flotation added it will likely float even with the surface of the water and would be almost imposable to empty in deep water. It will also with 500 pounds of water in it be hard to get to shore to empty. Flotation IMO is a must and I would add it to both ends.
As to paddling solo in a boat like my tandem canoe or your tandem rec-kayak the boat is designed for more weight than what one person provides your kayak is likely rated for up to 500 pounds my canoe is 800 I think. Without some weight trim is even more important with any wind at all.
Some people carry 8-10 one gallon jugs empty that can be filled for ballast once in the water. That’s a lot of messing around. With a canoe the advice is often to sit in the bow seat backwards. I tried that and it helped but I was still blown around too much. Because I paddle my canoe with a double blade kayak paddle I set the seats up similar to a tandem kayak where the paddlers have to paddle together in sync. Even then using it as a solo was a problem. I found the front edge of the seat needed to be roughly 8” behind centerline. I also almost always have a cooler in front of me with a few drinks in it less than 15 pounds. I sit trim with just me in the canoe and when I start adding gear I can split it up in front and behind me to keep the trim.
I figure padding is hard enough without hauling a bunch of ballast along. That and finding we didn’t like paddling together for a lot of reasons along with it is just more fun side by side paddling and talking. I gave up on the whole tandem thing unless it is a couple little kids sitting on a mat in front of me or a dog. Everyone is different though.
Thanks again for all the great advise. Its awesome to talk to people who have been through it all already. What would be the best thing to use to make a water proof bulkhead? I think it would be nice to have a small dry area in there somewhere. Have you heard of anyone replacing the foam for the bulkhead? I think having a couple of empty gallon jugs along just incase would be a good idea also. Should the boat set completely level in the water? Sorry for all the questions.
Just be careful you are only in protected water. That is one with a huge opening over both seats, yes? If l have that right, a couple came to an ad hoc self rescue class with one. They wanted to take it coastal.
After a number of failed attempts, they pulled in their expectations of where they would paddle it. Nothing works like finding out something doesn’t work.
@Sparky96 the max capacity of 500 lbs is essentially a load sufficient to appoach sinking. A safer load would be closer to 330 lbs combined, so moveable ballast might not be a practical exercise.
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The rear compartment isn’t very large, but it adds veritility and floatation. You have sound instructions already and lots of help answering questions if needed.
Pamlico Tandems should have an adjustable front seat and foot pegs to accommodate a solo paddler. Paddling from the rear seat would be a wild experience.
A tandem of that length has very little room for independent paddle strokes. The front paddler needs to realize they set the stoke pace. The back paddler has to communicate, otherwise you’ll be banging paddles and cursing each other. Learn to coordinate turns and how to edge the boat together. Not hard, just that both realize you’re not making independent paddling decisions. You move and the other person feels it. The experience could make you feel more unified, or convince you that you need separate boats.
Threading bungee can be tricky. Which is why you need a trick if you run into problems.
Dump excess water at the end of the trip. The rest can be sponged out with an absorbent kitchen spong. I personally like this style in the a bigger size if possible.
They’re cheap, disposable, absorbent and wipe down the interior with ease. The really big sponges can be hard to get your single hand around. And they’re not always as absorbent. Cheap and ultimately dusposable is the key. No need fir a $13.95 sponge.
It sounds like this is only for calm water. I was looking at Pearce Ferry to South Cove on the Colorado river, but there some rapids just down stream from Pearce Ferry. But the rest of the trip looks relativity calm. Now I’m think its not such a good idea with this kayak. Thanks for the heads up. I want to have fun not kill myself! Thanks for the bulkhead link. I think I’m going to give it a try. I’m wondering if I can use Styrofoam instead of foam rubber for extra fidgety or would the boat flex and break the seal. Are the factory ones foam or rubber? I was looking at the new version of this model and it said that you can move the front seat back for single paddling but this older one doesn’t seem to go back far enough. It looks like an easy mod. I like the sponge idea.
The bulkhead material is not a rubber material it is a closed cell foam. Same stuff pool noodles is made from. Stuff like Styrofoam will soak up water and are far to brittle for this job.
If you want the storage space you will need the bulkhead and also a hatch that seals well and stays on in the event of capsize. Most of the ones I see on rec-kayaks now have a locking latch of some kind with a rubbery tight fitting seal.
If you don’t want to go thru the process of doing all that just stick a yoga ball in there and blow it up. They come with a little pump but I filled mine with my compressor being very careful not to go overboard. I put the plug in and they have held air for a couple years now. One in each end will make a world of difference when you practice flipping the kayak and reentering it. There are a number of videos of different ways two people can work together to reenter. If it were me I would go with a ball in each end and go out and start playing.
I have a bleach bottle that I cut the bottom out of that works as a bailer. I have a cord on it with a clip and I keep it behind the seat. If you can get back in the boat even with a few inches of water in with you it only takes a minute to bail most of it out. Kayaking even rec-kayaking is a wet sport.
I feared it coukd be an older model, otherwise, you would’ve seen it coukd be moved. Flat water is the safe bet. You want 2 or 3 inch neoprene micro cell foam. Its dense, flexes and conforms, durable, UV resistant.
You have to decide whether the added flotation is worth the cost and convenience. You can carefully taper the foam to fit using a very sharp knife. Realize that if the boat fills with water and the seal is not waterproof, the bulhead won’t offer a watertight compartment.
The rapids are a class 4 to 5 depending on when you go. They only go for a short distance. That’s why I considered it. But after listening to you all I think I’m going to pass. Its a shame because the rest of the trip looks awesome. Thanks, you all more than likely saved me from a disaster.
Much better choice. All it takes is a few feet to be in major trouble at class 4 and 5. But make sure you also find pull out points that are well away from those spots. That should be findable in local whitewater info.
It fails credibility that the approach to a class 4 or 5 would not include some 1 and 2. Neither of which are where this boat should be…
Of course going to the issue of how you get the boat around those stretches physically. Frankly, best to avoid thru trips at first to make sure you are well clear. Paddle upstream first then float back to the car. Or stay in enclosed bodies of water.
A DIY repaired bulkhead in a rec-kayak will give you a reasonable dry place to carry things like jackets etc. on flat water where the likelihood of flipping is really slim. I would never as others have mentioned use the boat in anything beyond very mild sub class 1 water. Basically your boat is a canoe shaped like a kayak in terms of usage. The bulkhead will be a great help keeping the boat afloat even if capsized in flat water, but I wouldn’t trust it in heavy WW.
Now many people take canoes into WW, but they fill the boat with flotation leaving just room for them to kneel and paddle. That’s way different than an open non-protected canoe. In my canoe that I don’t take into WW I still run with 3’ of flotation in each end just in case. We go out in inland lakes that are basically flat water, but wind can pick up and boats can cause wake etc. Without the flotation I would be inclined to stay within a short swim distance of shore with it I feel more comfortable with doing short crossings and being out where the fish are biting. The flotation is as much about saving the boat as it is giving myself a good chance of reentry or swimming the boat in. I personally feel better say in her Rec-kayak knowing she has the yoga ball under her bow deck than that she has the sealed compartment with hatch in the stern.
If you want some dry storage and have some extra space in the cockpit a dry bag is also another good choice.
Thanks again. I think I’m just going to put in at south cove. The water is pretty protected there. Looks like I need to stay in calm waters by the sounds of things. There are some protected waters ay Lake Havasu also. If this works out well I may get a better single kayak to do more things. The wife wants calm water, close to shore anyhow.
My plan is to seal the bulkhead and put the exercise ball in the bow like you suggested.
I ordered a couple dry bags. I’m sure they still shouldn’t sit in a puddle of water all day.
I was going to put a drain plug in, but with the bulkhead sealed I’m not sure where to put it.
Dry bags can sit in water just try to keep the roll top out of the water. I personally prefer a canoe to a recreational kayak for rivers. Easier to portage for one thing. I haven’t done any WW in several years now, but always did it in tandem or solo canoes. Never class 5 and only a few times with a run that had a class 4.
I thing I’m going to keep it calm for now, until I get my feet wet. Lol, no pun intended. Then see where it goes from here. I’m glad I found this forum. You guys are great and been very helpful.
I’m hoping I can seal the bulkhead up pretty good and put the dry bags in there.
