My grandmother’s rocker had less rocker. It’s gorgeous. Well done.
@nickcrowhurst, Just FYI, I clicked on the link to cnckayaks.com and Firefox popped up a warning of potential security risk.
Nice boats.
I’ve checked with Chrome and with Internet Explorer and no issue is flagged. If you left-click on the padlock mark, and then left-click on Certificate (valid) you will see details of our Security Certificate, issued by Go daddy. I use Windows Defender anti-virus which comes with Windows 10. The following website explains that the error message you are seeing can be caused by using Firefox with anti-virus systems other than Windows Defender:
https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/error-codes-secure-websites#w_antivirus-products
Fixed it; it was Avast! Thanks.
Hybrid boats are often stitch and glue hull with a stripper deck for construction speed and looks. It makes sense to strip the hull for form a rounded chine and hull shape. Those rubber hatch covers often get brittle after a few years and cost around $80 usd each. My flat hatches just need new weather stripping.
Thirty Eight pounds “fully equipped”. Is that as we see it being paddled? Of course a lot of that depends upon the builder. My last design weight 45# stitch and glue 17 footer weighed 62 pounds last time I weighed it. 
Yes, fully equipped, for the extended length length Vembex, “as being paddled”, including the wire-operated skeg, seat, back-rest, hatch covers, foam foot rest and deck lines. That’s using WRC at 3/16th thickness for stripping the hull and 3 mm thick marine ply for everything else. The 16 ft Vember is 35 pounds, the 17.5 ft Vembex is 38 pounds. Shrike, stitch and glue , is 32 pounds.
I don’t use those very heavy proprietary rubber hatches or the heavy rings of plywood for the cockpit rim up-stand, and I certainly would not do “end-pours” of very heavy epoxy resin. Minimising the use of the thickened epoxy when making elegant fillets is also crucial. Glass cloth I use is lightweight twill weave at 135 gm.sq m. I’ve always used top quality 3 mm ply, rather than 4 mm, and I’ve not holed a hull in 60 years of “messing about in boats.”
Nick.
My experience shows that end pours and fillets can “grow” in size and weight.
Do you use foot peg assemblies or just the foot bulkhead?
I think the 135 gm cloth is similar to our 4 oz (USA). Do you cover the deck with it or just epoxy? …cockpit floor?
Foot peg assemblies are heavy, so I prefer to use foam, the same profile as the foot bulkhead. If a number of people are liable to test paddle the kayak I might fit foot pegs, but I prepare three foam bulkheads of a variety of thickness. By having 4", 2" and 1" pads I can make up 0,1,2,3,4,5,6, and 7"
On the Vember family of stripped-built hulls I do,of course, have to use glass cloth on the hull, but not on the deck. For Shrikes I just tape the joints, unless it is a low topsides version, when the topsides can be so narrow that one might as well glass all over.
That makes sense weight wise since the cloth might take three coats to fill the weave. Do you varnish for UV protection?..or automotive clear coat? …or at all?
Thank you for the replies.
I just leave the epoxy as the top coat since we don’t get much sun in the U.K. 
My son, Christopher, lives in Minnesota, and he uses varnish for UV protection on our designs.
I live in Florida. We have a lot of UV. When traveling the boats spend a lot of time on top of the truck, full sun. I have fading showing at deck lines.
Here is Dan Caouette’s comments when building my Shrike-R:
(from his facebook pages, built in 2015)
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“The interior is sealed and finished with two coats of Super Sap CLR from Entropy Resin. It’s a UV stable epoxy that has become my staple in the shop.”
“Why is the kayak white?! No worries. Just the fiberglass cloth prior to wet out. The entire exterior will get a single layer of 4.0 oz glass.”
“With the tight weave cloth it took a little over 12 oz of epoxy resin to completely wet it out. That’s not much more than what it takes to just coat the wood.”
Provided one does as Dan suggests, and uses the lightweight 4 ounce cloth, it can be easier to cover the whole hull and deck with the cloth, rather than taping all the joints. It saves having to feather-edge the glass tape at the gunwales and keel, an awkward and time-consuming task during which it’s tricky to avoid damaging the top veneer of the plywood. It probably adds a pound or so to the total weight, so it’s swings and roundabouts. Covering the whole hull and deck requires more skill and confidence, and I like to have a helper to pour on cupfuls of resin when required. I spread the resin with a 4" wide squeegee, and work fast. Nick Schade does a good video to illustrate the procedure. I also always use twill weave glass cloth at just under 4 oz. (135 gm/sq.m.) In twill weave, two strands go over and under, rather than just one, as in standard weave. This results in a cloth that drapes beautifully over the hull when brushed very delicately with a 6" wide soft bristle brush. I have been unable to buy twill when in the USA. I buy the twill at East Coast Fibreglass Supplies in the U.K. I take a large roll with me when I visit the USA to see Christopher. The twill should stay on a roller, as folding would leave creases.
https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/category/twill-weave-2x2-glass-cloth-and-tape
