But photo #3 seems to show evidence of previous damage or defect (an old discolored fracture surface). Notice how it seems to start right at the drilled hole on the right end of the split? Could have been some previous impact damage or a hidden defect in the wood maybe?
I'm no canoe seat expert, but I do have some woodworking experience. That seat should have been capable of reliably supporting 250lbs - but only if the weight is spread over the seat and the wood is without defect. Someone mentioned the possibility of a knee or something concentrating force on that one area, and that may be right. Or it could have been some other concentrated stress.
At any rate - I'm surprised that only one person suggested a seat using laminated components. You might gain some weight in the bargain (on the boat, I mean) but it should be stronger. OTOH, perhaps, in your case, a Merrimack or Navarro seat would hold up better, while looking and feeling just as good (and with little or no weight penalty)?
Edit: Oh - none of the above should be taken as an opinion that Nova Craft seats aren't strong enough. I really do think an undamaged and defect-free (nobody's perfect) NC seat should be fine with that weight when used properly. Just tossing in suggestions for "peace of mind".
Ness & Dave : If you go teh alu truss route, make it in a very shallow “V”. Add a small (1/4 - 1/2" tall?) block of wood at the seat’s center. This will form a true truss, and serve to put the aluminum under tension when teh seat is occupied.
Of course, N.T. could always fabricate a swooping french-curved wooden truss that could be screwed & glued under the seat. Now that would look great.
It’s a complex break on a weight-bearing member with built-in tension (webbing), and repairing it properly would require disassembling the seat and then reassembling afterwards. If I were going to that trouble, I would just build a new seat - or buy one - they aren’t that expensive. Besides - A glued joint might be stronger, but there’s no guarantee that whatever damage/defect caused this break doesn’t have additional surprises lurking.
theheavier paddler was at the stern seat … after the bow seat snapped and she bounced her head off the yoke. But oddly enough, the performance didn’t improve at all.
for nothing if I had it in my hand, but I don't so...those of you guys thinking that the holes weaken the seat are right on. Caned seats have proven to be the strongest over the years, Easily supporting 300 lbs. A boat that has been stored outside in the Northeast(even under cover) over the years will certainly start to develop beginning stages of dry rot from repeatedly being exposed to humidity changes and dry conditions in winter. All those holes don't help, especially if the exterior finish is worn or broken from normal use.
As long as it's a clean break and no dry rot is evident it would be worth fixing.
To repair the seat I would glue it up with poly glue, clamp it up and let it dry 24 hours. Then rough sand the bottom strip to remove any varnish or oil then glue on a reinforcement strip on the underside. Sounds like a lot of work for a seat that could easily be replaced but it's really not and without replacing both seats they will never match again.
Old seats usually start to come apart at the joints on the cross pieces. I fix them by gluing and adding a piece of galvanized (drilled and brass tacked) sheet metal on the bottom where you will never see it. Galvanized banding iron works great and it's free if you know where to look (bundled pipe)
Bring it, I’ll fix it I will put it on my long list of things to fix. My wife broke the crank arm off of the garden hose reel today. always something needs fixing around here.
ness…gotta move her down anyways… She should move back…towards the midship anyways…imo, if you Can rig up something…order a center seat and simply cut to fit… Have to trim by bringing her weight back a bit.