There are a number of factors that affect hull performance and, often, what works for flat water is less appreciated in rough water. Moving water adds another performance dimension to hull design, as does wind (as it strikes the hull above the water), length over all (LAW - Length At Waterline which will change when the boat is loaded), weight distribution, beam, and probably some features I will probably remember as I add to this post.
Thus, hull choice is a game of tradeoffs. No boat will do everything excellently. A boat that tracks well will (tend to be) slower to respond in surf, but may be better in moving water or following seas. Some general rules follow:
LAW affects tracking and ability to maneuver. The longer the LAW, the better the boat tends to track. This is better for launching than landing in surf, but doesn’t mean the boat will perform poorly.
LOA (length over all) is the actual length of the boat. This comes into play rarely as only the wet surfaces of the boat affect hull performance. Rarely is the entire length of the boat wet, though there are some examples where it comes into play.
Hard chines affect the profile of the boat at the point of contact with the water. Leaning the boat provides a much different wet profile (ie. hull contact shape with the water) than boats without hard chines. Thus, a hard chine boat will (tend to) behave differently when leaned than it does when paddling flat. These will also come in play in rough water since the wet surfaces will vary according to whether the waves sink the chines (wave angle can also be a factor).
Rocker reduces the LOA of the the boat, giving you your LAW. A boat with lots of rocker is effectively shorter. It will rise up to meet waves and tend to track less well. Following seas are the enemy of these boats and most will want a rudder to compensate. Laden, the hull will ride deeper and performance of the boat may change significantly.
Beam affects (top) forward speed as it increases both resistance and stability. Wider boats grant decent initial stability, but they are often more easily tipped once the tipping point is reached (beam reduces the aforementioned secondary stability - a concept I learned long ago and can understand the controversy). Beamy boats have their place, but generally suck in surf conditions as they are slow to respond and can easily exceed their tipping point in rough water.
So, the question becomes not “which boat should I buy” but which boat best fits my paddling environment and what are my preferred performance characteristics. It is a very complicated series of tradeoffs.
Example: I loved the Current Designs solstice when it first came out. It was awesome in the surf, paddled well and felt fast, responded to a lean, and tracked decently. Good LOA (almost no rocker) and very low volume in the bow, so it was essentially a submarine that allowed any wave over 3 inches high to slap you in the chest or face. The bow was a pointed spear with the rocker beginning 18-24 inches in from the narrow bow. On calm days it was a joy to paddle for most, but the design made it a very wet ride. In storm conditions (it should probably have been equipped with a tank and regulator) you might well find yourself getting a face slap from every wave that was over 2 feet high. In choppy conditions, beam seas washed over you with the boat making little effort to ride up and over. Very fun boat, for me, but then I was always dressed for immersion and wind. Others hated the thing and the need to always wear a wet or dry suit.
Example 2: I disliked the surf skis I tried. Most I tried years ago were much like the round hull I mentioned earlier. Very tippy and required speed to make them more sea worthy. Sure, they were fun in the surf, but most were only 18-20 inches wide, could not be used for camping (no storage), and were temperamental on flat water. Great for surf and very fast, both of which appeal to me. They responded well to leans, rudder strokes, and could more easily be kept pointing toward shore, but their lack of utility meant they were not something I could use outside the surf zone. Since I could only afford one boat at the time, these quirky beasts were quickly discarded as options.
As for a large volume bow affecting purling, I doubt that is much of a factor. Any boat whose rear is lifted sufficiently in relation to the bow will purl. The larger volume may alter the angle before purling occurs, but not appreciably. Lots of rocker may help since LOA is a greater issue with purling than is volume (in this odd situation, the bow and stern may be deeply submerged and the middle of the boat will ride much higher on the water). Short boats generally don’t purl (the stern does not lift very high in relation to the bow) and the larger volume in the cockpit comes into play, providing sufficient buoyant force. Longer boats which can have 5-6 feet of hull in front of the cockpit are much more likely to purl and a larger volume in the bow will have little effect. Effectively, the boat is a lever being lifted by the wave from behind.
Rick