Good place to start
– Last Updated: Dec-15-11 5:17 PM EST –
http://www.qajaqusa.org/Technique/Strokes.html
http://www.qajaqusa.org/Movies/movies.html
Gary
Beauty is…well you know.
Carbon paddles may not have the same aesthetic character as wood but if you’re looking for something unique there are more choices these days. I have a Novorca paddle and really love it. The best thing is that you can customize it.
http://novorca.com/about/
Gary
Do Not Use Carbon Fiber
anywhere near Iran 
unique
wasn’t going to post but since other sites are showing up on this thread…
http://www.northernlightpaddles.com
Yeah.
Visited my local Woodcraft store, which does carry pure Tung Oil. They told me I’d have to basically strip the current finish and I don’t want to go that far. Seems as though just reapplying what I’ve got periodically may be fine.
But I do feel ripped by the label on “Tung Oil Finish”!
Since
– Last Updated: Dec-15-11 9:26 PM EST –
Paul posted....it would only be fair to post this link too ...another travel-able paddle.
http://www.superiorkayaks.com/superiorkayakscanoes2012_019.htm
Disclosure , I am the instigator of this take apart paddle so am affiliated.
Best Wishes
Roy
Well, since he did say wood
Go with western red cedar. Nothing against the carbon fiber models, I am sure I will own one at some point, but wood is beautiful in ways man-made will never accomplish.
It’s like buying clothes off the rack verses having a tailor suit. I don’t want a one size fits most.
beginners to GP-make wood paddle
There is a major reason beginners to GPs should learn to make their first few GPs out of wood.
When starting paddling with a GP, one doesn’t yet know the overall length of paddle, length of loom, width of blade or profile of the blade their body and paddling skills favor. Buying a number of Carbon GP with different dimensions, while sorting out what feels best to a specific paddler would be quite expensive. Contrast this with $20-$40 for wood and !/2 a day of time to make another GP with the different dimensions you want to explore. A wood paddle that feels too fat can be shaved thinner. Too long-cut it shorter. Wood can even be added (glued on) to a GP for exploring what your body prefers.
After you have learned what dimensions work best for you, through trials exploring different homemade paddles, the time will come to consider buying an expense carbon GP. Only after considerable trials and experience will you know what dimensions to ask the carbon paddle maker to build for you.
Dave
It may be a bit unfair
– Last Updated: Dec-16-11 9:47 AM EST –
to state that the Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" contains no tung nut oil at all.
I did a quick search for the MSDS, and the the ones I found are possibly out of date and so skimpy that one really can't tell much. Mfr's are only required to list dangerous ingredients and some are more forthcoming than others. All I could really tell is that it contains mineral spirits (Stoddard solvent) and, maybe, a heavy metal siccative (cobalt). I think it likely does contain some amount of tung nut and linseed oils.
What's more interesting to me is that nowhere that I found on the mfr's site does it recommend the product for outdoor use.
Well, it DOES work.
It’s not bad stuff. I’ve been quite satisfied with how it went on and has held up to a season of light saltwater paddling. So I’m going to continue to use it on this particular paddle.
But next time I’m going for the pure stuff.
Will surely make me paddle faster, leap tall waves in a single bound, lose weight around my waistline, and make women fall for me helplessly (or whatever other nonsense we tell ourselves about “better” tools and toys.)
This
is …sort of true. However many paddlers (Greenland included) don’t do paddle making and look for one that is already made by a competent paddle maker. The euro kayak paddlers use to have to make their paddles too…and the canoe paddlers. In the euro camp, very few make their own paddles. I think many people in the Greenland paddling community are now too opting to buy rather than make their paddles. This is for many different reasons, but not all that wish to participate in paddling wish to also become a wood worker.
To make any of the paddles is very easy…but still, not everyone cares to
I was sort of in the wrong, posting a link to a colorful carbon paddle after the statement above was made about them not having any color. The link is to a paddle maker to which I have no connection other that knowing him.
After Paul posted a commercial link to his paddles, I felt it only right to include the link for the Superior carbon take apart paddle (this paddle I did the pro to-type work so am affiliated) In a way I am also somewhat responsible for Paul’s NL paddle since it was I who made the first Greenland paddle with a separate loom section in 3 and 5 pieces. I posted pictures and the idea was out there to be copied.
I realize that this thread began as a How to and what do I do thread.
I apologize for turning it into an Info thread on some of what is out there
Best Wishes
Roy
Iam ok with the links
Since i was the OP to this thread the links to the carbon and other made paddles is fine. After i make one or two i might want to buy a carbon one. Thanks for all replies everyone.
actually the first post
– Last Updated: Dec-17-11 3:57 AM EST –
was for ron's paddles.
but to get back to the original posting. WRC if you can get it cheap is great. if not do not hold off from making one because all you have is pine or any other wood. And personally, I don't know the opinions of others, but I think a carbon fiber paddle is something for later not sooner as you start out with Greenland paddles. I have talked about 4 people out of buying a carbon fiber paddle (yes mine) because there was no real advantage for them to have one.
Paul
“Tung Oil Finish” is like "Fruit Punch"
Neither one is required to contain what’s in their name.
The Minwax product is question is essentially thinned varnish and you pay a lot for product that’s mostly mineral spirits. I used some on my first paddle and I didn’t like the outcome, as the more you apply, the glossier it gets. I’ve thought of stripping it, but there are two issues with that:
1- It’s already in the pores of the wood, so it would require considerable sanding to remove it all. If you don’t, you’ll likely end up with a blotchy finish.
2- I don’t use the paddle, so it would only be a wall-hanger. The sad part is that it’s the prettiest piece of cedar I’ve ever found, sort of a chocolate brown with nearly black streaks in it. Oh well…
You’re the expert, but
That glossiness issue is personal taste. I found that I got a good finish by doing 4 coats sanding between wtih 400 and 600 grit paper. A last sand with one of those will take down some of the gloss, but keep the depth of the finish. Looks nice to me, but then that’s my taste. And BTW, I usually prefer a matte or satin type finish.
Yep, that stripping issue put me off doing this with the current paddle. I’ll just keep refinishing with the Minwax on this one as needed.
But for future, I’ll be going for the pure TO.
Agreed Paul
A basic and simple WRC paddle is a perfect starting point and has many fine attributes. Carbon is something for later on as an added treat. 
BTW, I think anyone new to the GP should try out a few well made paddles before attempting to make their own. How does one know how it should perform if they have nothing to compare it to?
Just a thought.
Gary
Expert? No, and you’re correct…
– Last Updated: Dec-18-11 12:22 PM EST –
...it very much IS a matter of personal taste, but there is also a functional component. Gloss finishes get slippery when wet and even if you de-gloss the surface with sandpaper or steel wool, it will become polished again through use. With a finish that has a high oil content, that doesn't happen. What amount of oil is the minimum required is anyone's guess, but I've had good luck with finishes that are 50% oil or more (not counting any thinners added).
Not slick
This stuff that I used has never become slick in saltwater to my hands, much less when I use gloves. So I haven’t experienced the problem. It feels quite good against the skin. It is probably no more than 50% varnish, is my guess.
It has worn down in various places, mostly where I have held it using gloves (I use ordinary woven work gloves), or where it rubbed habitually on something on the kayak, or where it got nicked on occasion.
Damn frustrating!
You guys who claim to get good wood from your local big box hardware stores make me envious. It doesn’t work that way where I live. I can’t even get good wood for paddles from the real lumberyards in my area, much less the knotty crap they sell at HD and other emporiums! It’s really frustrating.
Today I made a trip to a lumberyard that advertised WRC and Chinese Cedar. They had neither in stock and the guys there didn’t even know about the Chinese stuff their website claimed they stock. What a waste.
Went to Woodcraft to look over what their website says is quarter-sawn pieces and found that most were not quarter-sawn at all.
From talking with real wood guys, they’re all bemoaning the loss of good wood stock to the fast growth, construction grade mono-culture patches. I’m beginning to agree with them…
try
a specialty lumber yard that carries wood for railings, banisters, large cabinets etc. usually you will find grade A wood and grade B.
This place in Charleston can be relied on to get really good WRC and out of about every 5 you can find some really beautiful WRC, with some being almost chocolate brown in color.
http://www.southernlumbermillwork.com/
Not very cheap though but dayumn they have beautiful pieces.
Paul