good idea
I was thinking a wooden boat is strong and light.
Also, regarding the R&R, I thought I read that it wasn’t for highway speed, but I’m just going on memory… so check with them. It’s hard for anyone to make sure a roof rack or trailer is right for themselves. The best we can do is help point you in the right direction.
If you go the trailer route…
work out some way to make loading onto and off of the trailer easy, too. My trailer is of a height that makes it easier than lifting from the ground and of course it is much lower than a rooftop. But I still have to do some lifting.
An option that I do not use with my trailer is the tilting feature. It’s a snowmobile trailer, so it had this, but we locked it out since I prefer not to back a trailer all the way to the water. However, this might be something for you to consider.
You can use…
…a Rack and Roll trailer for highway use! For what it cost you better be sure that Yakima (they market these trailers now) ensures that you can drive it at highway speeds. It has a very nice suspension system. My Trailex doesn’t compare to the Rack and Roll and I drive 60mph with it without a problem.
Again, if you use a kayak dolly to help you loading and unloading isn’t hard at all. Best of all the Rack and Roll and Trailex trailers themselves are lightweight so you can move them around easily.
How big
What kayak do you have? There have been some good suggestions but it breaks down to how heavy and how long is your boat. There are very light kayaks out there. I have one that weighs 30 lbs. A light kayak will be a lot easier to handle even with a trailer. I have also worked out a loading system that allows me to load a 65 lb kayak on my car solo with out lifting more than half the weight at one time. Give us some more info.
Get a lighter Kayak
One of the reasons I bought a Hurricane 116 kayak was because of weight-- loading, unloading and carrying to the water by myself--mine weights 39 lbs
Malones!!! check out their new lift
system…might work just great for you…
or their seawing/stinger combo…
Hullavator and Malones
I watched the Hullavator you tube video and checked out the Malones on the ORS website.
On the Hullavator video - the guy lifts the whole kayak onto the assembly at once.
On the ORS website demo’ing the Malones its not a video but a series of web shots - where the kayak is on the ground - then “jumps” onto the assembly all at once.
As someone in a similar circumstance as the OP - I question being able to lift the whole kayak onto either assembly - even if it is low.
It would be ideal to put one end up then the other - but are the assembly bars to close together to do this? If so, I think I would have to move on to considering something where I lifted one end, then the other. I think it would be easier for me to lift half the weight of a kayak to the roof line, than the whole bulky weight, wasit or chest high. Perhaps its a matter of your disability. Maybe if you just don’t have upper body strength, get a Malone or Hullavator. If you have bad back (me), not so much.
I agree
If you can lift one end of your boat, it is easy to prop the bow on the trunk of a small sedan like the Civic (I have a Saturn sedan) then pick up the stern and slide the boat up onto the rack, using a blanket or bathmat to keep from scratching the car. I have to be careful of my back, and using this method and a Paddleboy Nemo kayak cart, I only lift one end at a time.
Hullivator experience
I have used a Hullivator on a Suby Outback. Not as low as your car, I still had to squat down and reach under the boat to release the catches.
I have a bad back, but my main reason for buying the Hullivator was to free up the roofline to allow me to open the hatch.
Jim
A bit more detail from original poster:
My disability is decreased lung capacity–I get very short of breath with very little exertion. I can do small “bursts” with rests in between, but I don’t want to exhaust myself before even getting on the water! I have a 12-ft. Tsunami, 55 lbs. Didn’t realize when I bought it that lifting 55 lbs. of kayak is NOT like lifting 55 lbs. of dog food! (I was a newbie.) I’m considering getting a Pungo (120, since it comes in ultralite–40 lbs.), not only because it’s lighter but also more stable. (The lung problem has turned me from an excellent swimmer to a near non-swimmer, so I’m afraid of deep water [and HATE that! Don’t ever get old or sick!] I think something more stable will be less likely to capsize and will help me feel secure enough to venture deeper.) Has anyone used the Malone Telos? Looks like a good compromise (and much cheaper than the Hullavator!) but it doesn’t seem like it would be terribly sturdy. I’ve searched exhaustively for a review or video but can’t find a one. THANKS to all for your help and advice–this community is the BEST I’ve ever found!
Here ya go…
…Lightweight (36lbs), very stable and very comfortable. Get yourself a trailer and you are good to go. You can even get a skirt for it.
http://www.nativewatercraft.com/ult_12_tegris.cfm
you may have to look
at getting something built, (cheap and low-tech)
to get the nose of the boat onto the roof and then push. If it was me, and I had problems lifting due to injury. I would come up with a way to get the nose of the boat, over the rack on the rear of the car. This way I could push the rest of the boat onto the rack using the mechanical advantage of round bars to slide the kayak. Some sort of wooden contraption built as a ramp would be my choice. it would have to come apart and fit in the trunk.
A honda civic is a much easier lift than a CRV for instance.
Why would the hullavator not work for you?
Lift from ground to roof top
I don’t know if still made, but there really was a device that lifted the boat right off the ground and right onto the roof rack and secured it there. Very well made and not cheap but reasonable for what all it accomplished.
This was about 3 years ago. Sorry cannot remember its name!
Tideplay
yep that is it
Ah ha! That is the one I was told about. Thanks. I don't have any personal experience with it, so no testimonials but it looks like something to check out. I would love to know if any one has it or knows someone who has. Check out the video it impresses me. I have a friend with MS who this would be a godsend for.
Just curious but from a safety point of
view - if you can’t lift a kayak off the ground how can you help yourself in the water if something bad and unforeseen happens. I’m not trying to be snarky but a part of kayaking is the ability to help yourself or have someone with you that can help you if things go bad. I certainly hope someone is paddling with you.
I’m well aware of that.
I generally paddle in water that is not over my head.
Options
I can’t speak from personal experience, but the load my boat system looks monstrous. I can’t find a price for the whole system which means it probably costs eleventy billion dollars.
The Hullavator may work out fine but will require you to lift the boat a foot or so off the ground. I couldn’t imagine that would require more effort than actual paddling.
The other loading assist accessories require loading from the rear of the vehicle which can be tough with the trunk. The roller types work best for SUV’s and vans.
Consider the Thule Outrigger or Yakima Boatloader. You only lift half the boat at a time and you don’t have to lift it up and over onto the car.
Trailer hitch
Your price also increases if you have to add a hitch to a sedan. Most trailers retail for the $1000(+) range for a decent one that’s stainless and doesn’t weigh a ton. Harbor Freight sells some cheapy ones that people like to use but usually need some modification to work correctly.
Light boat
Check out the Current Designs Kestrel 120 in hybrid lay up. 32 lbs x12’x26". The Yakima Showboat would also make it easier to load. Just remember when one end loading, use a tag line to prevent the boat from slipping.