Yeah, I built it.
It has about 160' of lace in it though - took me about 8 hours to lace it, including mistakes where I had to backtrack a run or two. It has been comfy, and that is why I am sticking with the design.
Jim
BTW - I can custom make these seats for anyone who is interested. $1000.00 per copy. (the lacing is a royal PITA)
How about adhesives?
In particular, epoxy.
I will be joining the joints with West System epoxy resin. If I have an accurate, no-slop fit should I use neat resin, or should I aim for some play and use thickened resin? (ash components)
Jim
Okay, let’s say, for the sake of
argument, that you’ve decided upon the clearly superior bridle joint, and that your seat mounting hardware will consist of the typical screw/bolt dropping through the middle of the aforementioned joinery. Also, since ash is relatively flexible, and there is always the possibility that the perched paddler might be of greater-than-average proportions, the joinery will be subjected to moderate torsional forces. These considerations would lead one to the obvious first choice of freshly mixed hot hide glue, since it is the most easily reversible and the joint is bound to fail at some point and require re-gluing anyway. I know, I know, yes, hide glue IS water-soluble, but in this case, it’ll never get wet because you’re gonna varnish the daylights out of it before lacing, right?
Dang near perfect
analysis of my project tktoo!
Bridle joint? Check.
Seat mounting hardware dropping through the middle of the aforementioned joinery? Check.
Ash relatively flexible? Check.
Possibility that the perched paddler might be of greater-than-average proportions? Check.
Joinery subjected to torsional forces? Check.
Joint bound to fail at some point? Mmmmm, I think not.
My Mk I seat has what amount to finger joints (overlapping 1/4" x 1-1/2" Red Oak slats) glued with Titebond III. After one season, no failure. But the flex of ash compared to the flex of laminated oak might make a difference.
I plan on using Watco Teak for finishing (all other brightwork on the boat is finished in oil). So I really don’t want to go the hide glue route if I can avoid it.
Jim
Of course you can avoid it.
My last response was really a lame, mouth-muscle-in-cheek attempt at humor. Epoxies are the most obvious choice for structural strength when assembling joints in wood. A quick glance at “The Glue Book” recommends a “visible glue line” for epoxies. That is to say, be careful not to starve the joint. A little loose is good and don’t use excessive clamping pressure. If the joint is too loose, and you need to thicken for gap-filling, Mr. Young (author) advises colloidal silica over microballoons for structural integrity. Avoid fast-cure (5-minute) epoxy!
Now, I have a question for you. How thick are you gonna make your tenons and on which rails will they be placed? (this is not a test, just curious)
Tenons to be in teh
cross-members. With four hangers per side I figure that the real stress will be on the front member, so I plan on leaving most of the meat on it. I may go to 5/4 on it, with 4/4 elsewhere.
Jim