Ash
is what I said I was going to use. The red oak was available when I did the first work. Boat’s brightwork is northern white ash.
Jim
PS: After consideration, I think I may just through-bolt the cleats to the seat spacer. Iitially I had hoped to have the fasteners hidden, but the thought of having one or both shap off while portaging bothers me. I do not wear a helmet when portaging.
Still going to glue, though. Thanks for the input.
Shoulder plane
– Last Updated: Aug-09-07 5:08 PM EST –
Guess you're all set. I hesitate to chime in, because I wasn't clear on the type of joint. (I'm still not quite clear . . . ) I do a lot of cabinet making just as a hobby, but I've been at it for about 15 years. I recently finished 10 chairs for our dining room set that I made. 28 blind mortise joints per chair. I picked up a set of goose neck chisels and a shoulder plane before I started with my 280 joint project, and I gotta say, if you're going to do a lot of joints, a shoulder plane is a god send! After the second chair I was leaving all kinds of extra on the tennons and that little plane made trimming the joint perfectly a snap, no sanding either, (that was how I used to do it, but a good plane does a much more accurate job.) Veritas is now making three fantastic models, (their weren't any being made for a long time.)I only have the medium, they're pretty steep. Anyway, sorry if this is old hat, but I gotta say, if you like a good joint you should definitely look into one of these! (I don't ever use any screws or dowels, but that's more an aesthetic than pragmatic choice, I don't go boating on my dining room set. All the same, a well made joint is generally stronger than the wood, I usually shoot for a 1/32" tolerance and they always come out very strong.)
Titebound III, I think that's what I use, extended open time right? Some of the new stuff out there is great, but I like a lot of open time to get things well clamped.
I see the set-up…
…and read your description of what you’re trying to accomplish Jim. If I understand what you want to do… I think I’d glue on a strip as long as needed and reinforce it with a few stainless steel screws. I’d clean up the existing rail with a sharp cabinet scraper to remove traces of old finish, glue under clamp pressure with Titebond III. After the glue dried I’d drill for the screws and run ‘em in using a screw gun set at “just enough” torque to set them tight. Looks like a fairly straightforward add-on. Good idea to make your removable yoke adjustable for trim. Good luck with it – post some “after” pics please. We’d like to see.
While I’m at the keyboard… Regarding the so-called “rubbed joint”. It was suggested in an earlier post that sanding is a preferred method for creating a fine joint. It is not – and never has been. For accuracy craftsmen have always used edge tools, be they hand tools or power. Sanded joints, especially hand sanded joints are seldom, if ever accurate. Note that 100 years ago sand paper was not commonly being used. Also note that 100 years ago craftsmen were working with hide glues and the like. PVA/White glue was not introduced until the mid-20th Century. And while PVA did have its era, that glue type became archaic with the introduction of aliphatic resin glues nearly 40 years ago. These days there are many types of glues better than old school white glue in almost every imaginable way. To sum: if this so-called rubbed/friction “technique” is indeed becoming a lost art – the sooner it’s lost the better. - Randall
PS – FWIW Here’s a link to some examples of my woodworking credentials: http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560215553Xhtylr
No need to defend your
credentials on this board, Randall!
The ash from Ed’s Canoe is planed smooth, so I have no prep work on the surfaces. Considering the stress placed on the joint I am leaning toward 10-24 bolts & nuts. #10 screws will work, and I will not have to deal with the nuts protruding and possibly rubbing against the interior of the hull. Brass, threaded inserts would work too.
My inspiration for this yoke system came from Green Valley Boatworks. www.greenval.com/FAQsolo-yoke.html
The current system worked OK in the BWCA this spring, but I have replaced my home-brew pads with CVCA sling pads athat do not extend as far in front of the yoke. As such, the balance is now neutral instead of rear-bias. The clamp-on sustem will allow tuning.
I will start fabrication tomorrow, and this time I will take some progress pics.
Jim
All sounds great
Yep, sounds like you’ve got it all figured out and ‘r ready to proceed. Lookin’ forward to the progress pics. BTW, good move on the CVCA pads – those folks make the best pads on the planet – hands down. - Randall
Nice work Arkay!
As a hobby woodworker also, I would like to add just a bit to the discussion on preparing surfaces for glue. The general order of preference from best to worst is usually considered: Hand cut (plane or chisel) > machined with knives (jointer, router) >>> sanded. This is based on the amount of abuse the glue surfaces take. Sandpaper is obviously the most destructive, but please remember that even sharp, well-maintained jointers and routers do not cut perfectly flat surfaces and tend to burnish/crush fibers, inhibiting glue penetration. I always take 1-3 passes with a sharp plane on machine cut surfaces, just to freshen them up. I also find it is easiest to “spring” edge joints by hand.