“You want the WW reinforced one, not
the 8 oz wonder”. Yes. The paddle had the 800 number on it which was essentially worthless when I snapped it in half on the Missinaibi. It was not reinforced on the backface. Did not do a pry real well.
Operator error.
Maybe
If he is tripping -
racing, no.
Bent shaft Zav in whitewater
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There are differences of opinion I guess - I would not use it for slalom no, but for tripping in a mixture of flat and mild whitewater its great. Short easy class 2 that sort of thing intermixed with flatwater. If there are hard 2s or 3s or more I carry a dedicated WW paddle for that. My Zav is a white water model - not for racing - but great for tripping. I'm very happy with it and it is pretty darn rugged for 13 ozs or whatever it is. My tripmates think I'm crazy - so you need to be prepared to take some ribbing.
your lookin at a twisted type
"Only twisted types use bent shaft on whitewater."
Where would we be without a few twisted types along on the trip, eh?
Brings to mind the “crooked” tunes of the french canadian traditional music scene.
Sometimes its good to break out of the mold - try something wild and crazy!
A lot of opinions…
and I’d agree that it really depends on the individual, so I’ll just tell you my current, straight, traditional paddle, Shaw and Tenney Maine Guide Paddle. Was it worth the price, to me, yes I love the paddle it works fine for in water recovery, and the grip makes it a more versatile paddle than would be expected. Shaw and Tenney doesn’t recommend it for regular use because of the large blade, but I like that because my paddle partner usually spends more time taking photos than paddling, and I can move the canoe quite well by myself with the larger blade.
I have a Shaw and Tenny too.
Nice traditional paddles. I love mine. Mine is a very long beaver tail in ash. Maine Guide model. I use it as a stand up paddle on trips like the Allagash.
This post inspired me to go out and
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swing my Kettlewell Special for a while. I've had it for years and never really thought too much about wether or not it was worth it. The thing did take some getting used to, with that tip being way down there and all, but it is a beautifully crafted paddle made from a gorgeous piece of cherry. I used to get a little "zing" during the forward slice, but that seems to have gone away. User error, probably. I think I was just pushing it too hard. The grip felt a tad small at first, but it works fine for the Indian thing I tend to do with it and I did shave the round shaft to ovalize it some. Ray varnishes the entire paddle, so I just rubbed the grip stations silky-smooth with #0000 steel wool. Feels great now that it's broken-in.
I mostly sit now, so it doesn't get that much use, but, even so, I'd have to say it was easily worth the money.
Is it a hobby, fitness or health?
When I set my personal budget for the year I look at how much spending I’ll allow in those 3 catagories. Since I consider paddling expenditures “health”, I allow more spending than fitness or hobby catagories.
Travel, a PFD or another paddle are reasonable things to spend money on provided I don’t go over the total budgeted amount. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it…LOL
In a word…
YES… A good paddle makes a big difference.
Ease of handling, paddle weight, efficient power,
definitely worth the money–to a point. I wouldn’t spend $500 for a paddle…
different mindset
Canoers seldom spend more than a $130 for a paddle. Kayakers generally start buying paddles at the $130 price point. I own 6 paddles worth more than $500; all kayak paddles. It means that I don’t think twice about spending $200 on a canoe paddle that feels and looks good.
Not to stereotype, but how many fancy heels/boots/flats has a significant-other bought costing over a $100 which are used maybe 2-3 times a year?
The OP stated that he paddles 5-7 weeks a year. That’s practically one day a week. By no means is that casual paddling, that’s some extended boat time. If it were me, I would definitely be looking at gear making me more comfortable on the water.
Remember, paddles are easier to collect than boats.
Canoeists seldom spend more
than $130? Perhaps in a store environment but I have a passel of over %400 canoe paddles and friends with a similar collection. I think the least I paid lately was $100 for a tripping paddle that was going to get beat on.
At that price you can bet they are used. Far too expensive for wall ornaments.
Problem with this thread is that the OP
specifically and rationally put limits on the issue, and then many ignored him. He wants a straight shaft, traditional wood paddle, and he wants to know whether he should spend a lot, or just choose a good, medium priced paddle.
He doesn’t want, and doesn’t need, people telling him that he should get a carbon bent shaft, or a slalom paddle, or a double bladed wonder or whatever.
I’ve noticed a tendency for folks to offer advice from outer space when the person asking the question has already rationally delimited the scope of the issue. Sometimes I think people don’t read the OP inquiry, and/or don’t scan what others have suggested.
generically speaking
There are a few of us who make a minority. If you consult the percentages, my statement remains true. Canoers seldomly spend more than $130 on a paddle.
not from outer space
Usually the higher priced the paddle the lighter it is without sacrificing strength.
That is IMO the deciding factor when you do seven week trips.That’s a fair amount of mileage and every ounce adds up.
As far as what most canoeists do who enter a shop that may be totally irrelevant. Most people entering Beans boat bike and ski dept do not paddle seven weeks a year.
You’re Right
So let me say, sure, go ahead treat yourself and buy another similar fancier paddle that’s lighter and more expensive. The psychological and physical benefits are usually greater than the incremental costs incurred. At least you’ll have a backup paddle. As a paddle junkie, I try to use a different paddle each time I hit the water. And as I do this, I really do appreciate what my canoe guru would always say: “your paddle is the most important piece of equipment.”
You are 100% correct
I plead guilty as charged.
I made the decision to go graphite and bent but I need to keep in mind those things are not for everyone.
Personal preference?
I think that it’s always going to be a personal choice. I’m still using the same paddle I did twenty-five years ago. It’s just a light poplar, beaver tail shaped, straight shaft wooden paddle. There’s nothing special about it other than it’s taken me a lot of places. It’s held my tarp up in the rain, it’s been my walking stick on tricky portages. I think it cost me twenty and I looked at similar ones recently and they’re around forty now. I’m not a racer, I just do trips and recreational paddling.I guess it’s all about what you want to do with your paddle. For me, principally, I just want something easy to use and not so expensive I worry about abusing it when I put it to those “other” camp side uses.
I would say
No more like $150 for a good paddle. More than that and I will pass.
Yes, Kayakers do have to spend more. Then again… it’s 2 paddles.
prefer lite weight
I prefer lightweight especially on long trips.
A one pound difference in weight can add up to over 7- tons more weight lifted in just one day.
I use an 7 oz ZRE. AT 50 strokes a minute add up to over 15,000 lbs I lift in a 12 hour day…multiply that by three for a paddle weighs a pound more.
Extra weight equals more fatigue, equals less efficiency, equals slower pace,equals discomfort,equals lack of enjoyment.
Straight wood paddles
yes there is a difference in performance between paddles at different price levels. The low end paddles are heavy, have thick blunt blades, and crude grips. Going up past the $30 river beaters, gets you a better shaped grip (more labor so more cost), laminated shafts, laminated blades, oval shafts, and better materials. Going completely bonkers with price, gets you some very pretty woodworking, but very small improvements in performance. Past the $150 level paddles start to get specialized. Lightweight, go fast bentshafts. Rugged big whitewater sticks. Willowy freestyle sticks. And hang on your wall art work paddles.
For your stated usage there are many good wooden straight paddles. For better underwater moves, the blade edges and cross section will make a difference.
The oval shaft that slides easily thru your hand. The grip that gives you control and not blisters or cramps. The light weight that gives you smiles at the end of the day and not sore shoulders. They all matter. And you get to decide which combination feels best for you. And it will be a combination of many design and construction features that come together to make your dream paddle.
My personal favorites in wood are Gillespie and Foxworx. Lightweight, good grips, thin blades, good entry and catch. I paddle mostly with bent shafts, and in wooden construction they are my favorites. They make good straights also.
Good paddling,
Bill