I had done some research on that
And it came up that it was probably 1/3 Tung Oil, 1/3 varnish, 1/3 other oil (or something like that). But it does have the significant Tung Oil base; not a total scam!
Do you know otherwise, Bryan?
According to the MSDS, Watco Teak Oil
is mostly solvents with some linseed oil, fungicide and proprietary resin mixed in.
I didn’t find any Watco product offered or marketed as containing tung nut oil.
about that color thing
lots of ways to add soul in a paddle…scrimshaw
http://www.qajaqusa.org/cgi-bin/GreenlandCommercialForum_config.pl?page=1;md=read;id=4714
Best Wishes
Roy
or this
http://www.qajaqusa.org/cgi-bin/GreenlandCommercialForum_config.pl?page=1;md=read;id=4715
:)…no affiliation (disclaimer)
Best Wishes
Roy
Balsa Wood
I thought the OP basically wanted three things: light, easy to carve, wood. So naturally I thought of Balsa which I have used for a paddle blade and found to be very good.
Naturally you need to cover it with S glass if you want to see the wood. Or Carbon for a slightly stiffer and lither paddle than S glass.
If you didn’t want wood then their are a lot of foams that are even better than balsa. And today the lightest and stiffest Greenland Paddles I have handles are foam core with Carbon cloth and epoxy finish.
I think the Carbon is over rated compared to nicely done S glass. And S glass vacuum bagged over balsa makes a much prettier paddle!
One other question
Do Greenland paddles require a different type of paddle stroke than a regular paddle? If so are there any good videos showing how to correctly paddle with a Greenland paddle?
OOOPS!!! My mistake…
It’s actually Minwax Tung Oil Finish I used and not Watco! I realized that I had researched the Watco, but forgot which brand I actually used in the end.
What do you have for Minwax on an MSDS?
Sorry to all for my error.
Yes.
Do your research on the Web. They require a canted stroke.
It should be easy to find on mfr’s site.
– Last Updated: Dec-15-11 8:26 AM EST –
But I'd be surprised if it's significantly different. Most of these oil finishes seem to be essentially similar and Nystrom is correct that, because they often contain unnamed resins, they are technically slow-drying varnishes modified for application by wiping on very thin coats.
Merde! I’m mortified.
Also pissed at being misled. Turns out it’s not Tung Oil based at all. Truthfully, it did work as described and it did make a nice finish, which has stood up reasonably well. But Tung Oil it is NOT, despite the name. There really ought to be more truth in labeling…
Anyway, I’m going to get some of the real stuff, 100% Tung Oil.
My question for you experienced woodworkers is: Do I now need to totally sand off the finish in order to rub in the Tung Oil? I still plan to use some kind of more sealing finish over the pure TO, or is that wrong here?
Thanks.
Why pure tung oil?
It’s likely that what you’ve used would out-perform it for your application. Are you worried about toxins being absorbed through your hands?
Not at all.
My understanding is that pure Tung Oil, or alternately half TO and half varnish/penetrating oil, is supposed to be the best all around preservative for the paddle. If that’s wrong, let me know.
Use what you’ve got would be my
advice. Reapply whenever it seems appropriate and pay close attention to exposed end grain. Save the pure tung oil for cutting boards and salad bowls.
I thought penetrating oil was for loosening rusted nuts. None of the oil finishes for wood penetrate beyond a microscopic depth on long grain.
Good place to start
– Last Updated: Dec-15-11 5:17 PM EST –
http://www.qajaqusa.org/Technique/Strokes.html
http://www.qajaqusa.org/Movies/movies.html
Gary
Beauty is…well you know.
Carbon paddles may not have the same aesthetic character as wood but if you’re looking for something unique there are more choices these days. I have a Novorca paddle and really love it. The best thing is that you can customize it.
http://novorca.com/about/
Gary
Do Not Use Carbon Fiber
anywhere near Iran 
unique
wasn’t going to post but since other sites are showing up on this thread…
http://www.northernlightpaddles.com
Yeah.
Visited my local Woodcraft store, which does carry pure Tung Oil. They told me I’d have to basically strip the current finish and I don’t want to go that far. Seems as though just reapplying what I’ve got periodically may be fine.
But I do feel ripped by the label on “Tung Oil Finish”!
Since
– Last Updated: Dec-15-11 9:26 PM EST –
Paul posted....it would only be fair to post this link too ...another travel-able paddle.
http://www.superiorkayaks.com/superiorkayakscanoes2012_019.htm
Disclosure , I am the instigator of this take apart paddle so am affiliated.
Best Wishes
Roy
Well, since he did say wood
Go with western red cedar. Nothing against the carbon fiber models, I am sure I will own one at some point, but wood is beautiful in ways man-made will never accomplish.
It’s like buying clothes off the rack verses having a tailor suit. I don’t want a one size fits most.