2 piece GP

daswatimtalkinbout …
THANK YOU Brian for writing all the stuff I should have yesterday and lost sleep over thinking about last night.



I wish I could make a custom one for everyone but then reality hits … but read on please.



Adjustable length is a good thing for all above reasons. As I said before … feather angle just comes with it as a byproduct.



By stuff that has more than one function I do not mean like a can opener / knife sharpener, automatic windshield wipers or even a fancy pair of pliers that come with a mini tool set + kitchen utensils … I mean more like using your keys to open your beer or cut your bagel.



Another thing that will come out is a nicely designed, repeatable, paddle with that can be built as a one piece in any length down to the mm.



The layup can be tailored to suit those that like the paddle to be nightstick stiff or noodley soft + no worries to beef it up for intended use and waters paddled … all for an affordable price.

I am all for using high density foam
in a sandwich configuration for ribs too.



Heat formable, precision cut with hand tools with no-to-zero sanding + dust falls right to the floor rather than wafting around for hours, very high cyclonic lifespan, LIGHTER, stiffness customizable … etc.

Surf Cruiser
… sort of like a longboard that you can use on mellow waves then paddle in a straight line from break to break for a nice day along the coast …




Right … thank you again.

SOOOO Greyak …
When are you gonna put your money where your mouth is ?



Come on man, jump in the fire … tis fine in here.

Exactly! No money at this point…
… so it’s all mouth! I’m acutely aware of the imbalance.



The money, time, and workspace are just not available now.



Even doing small scale proto stuff on a shoestring is tough - as I have nowhere to be playing with chemicals. Remember, I live in a small efficiency apartment - and it’s mighty humid and frequently raining (daily) outside.



I’ll start setting aside some time for computer versions of stuff first. Computer design data would let me investigate much of the engineering/production aspects and see if the basic numbers add up before committing any $.



Small scale outsourcing would be required. A little hands on fun up front, then a hand off and switch to full time marketing/distribution - and lots of demo “work”!



Short term goal - a couple products to generate side income to feed my paddling habit. Longer term goal - enough income to go to full time so I could get to more events and finally meet many of the people I know only online, adding to the line along the way. Smaller stuff first, then eventually boats too. Ultimate goal - a decent little shop/R&D/boathouse/home on a little patch of water somewhere as a base of operations…



Crazy? Of course. Dreamer? Yup! Doable? You seem to manage so I have at least one positive example to follow.


OK -then just a couple things left…
… to really focus on - both functions of the various cross section shapes:



Edge sharpness (lower half of blade) and root/shoulder shape.



Problem here (again) is people also have very different preferences on these - and with valid reasons somewhat driven by the paddling they do.



I favor very soft shoulders and fat oval shaped blade roots - and relatively sharp edges and tips - because all of these things are good for longer distance paddling at a good pace - and still work well for sculling, rolling/bracing (really well for sculling).



The Superior is very good in both areas - as are Don Beale’s paddles - and I’m pretty sure Brian has similar tastes in his own paddles. They just paddle better. Quieter, cleaner/smoother, and more powerful.



Some like fatter edges. Some like more pronounced shoulders. I can’t generalize - but it does seem these are more popular among those who roll more than paddle. I typically hate club-like paddles with hard shoulders and every time I try one can’t help wondering if paddles like that aren’t responsible for some not like the GPs they try one!



Get these aspect right - it will paddle sweet. Otherwise, lots of kerplunks and blisters.



A lot more to them of course - every element/shape change and relation matters - but these make or break a GP, IMNBNSHO (in my novice but not so humble opinion).



Maybe obvious stuff to you - apologies for stating the obvious if so. These thing are not issues - or even existent - on euros and wings, so I though worth stressing. FWIW.



I suspect Brian can offer more lucid and detailed thoughts here…

Bottom line Pat,
will you produce a TAP GP with adjustable loom?

if so I’ll buy the first :slight_smile:

forget feathering with the design.

Ya know…
a ‘REAL’ paddlemaker would also offer adjustable blade width! :slight_smile:



Seriously, if you do end up offering your Gp for public sale, put me down for one. Me 'n Mikey will try anything!



Holmes

tap gp with adjustable loom
in graphite robert.



My thread…I get to test out the first one right Pat?



right Pat?





Paul

I like the concept

– Last Updated: Sep-23-06 4:18 PM EST –

My only concern would be what happens at the ends of the metal spine, where the paddle begins to flex. Perhaps they've got that issue solved, but not having seen - let alone used - one of their paddles, I really can't say.

Something simlar could be done with composites, which if designed properly, could allow for a gradual transition in stiffness and little or no increase in weight. It would also be easier to bond composites to wood using epoxy.

I’ve done armored edges…

– Last Updated: Sep-23-06 4:23 PM EST –

...using red oak strips 1/4" thick and I've been amazed how well they've held up. I only armored the last 18" of the blade above the epoxy-coated tip (it was added to an existing paddle that had been damaged in ice) and that seems to be enough. I don't see any point in going all the way to the shoulder and it seems to me that it would make shaping an already tricky area even more challenging.