The two pieces of duct tape represent were the bulkheads are.
Probably splitting hairs, but the one further back is probably a bit smaller, and not right next to the cockpit opening. Structurally overall, the one further back should be the stronger spot. The hull around it should be stiffer on its own right there, and given the bulkheads are made out of the same stuff, a smaller one would have less potential for flex than a larger one. I’d say the rear one should be a more structurally solid area overall. That’s what I would figure anyway.
I would use the one which most equally divides the hull into 3 equal segments to most evenly distribute the load onto your supports, which is probably the rear one.
Of course pirate is right. My quandary is: Do you plan to haul the boat upside down and if so–why? I’m thinking that loading would be easier right side up and v-type saddles provide best support and stability.
I also transport my boats on a trailer, but not that high up. I put the boats on bunks on edge and about windshield height. At that height the boats are out of the main wind force and right in the face of following drivers. Loading and securing is a snap.
Well, I figured higher the better. I had a lady in a mini van hit my boat 15 mins after I bought it. So I set the height to clear the hood on a 3/4 ton truck thinking that would cover most vehicles, sans 18 wheelers etc. Also, I have a fiberglass topper on the bed of my truck and with the kayak on the trailer, it is still a few inches below the roof line.
I was under the impression that poly boats went hull up or on their side???
Poly boats are strongest on their side or deck, that is correct. You can always slide it up on the hull then flip it, that is what l did with the glass boats on the stackers.
@pirateoverforty said:
I would use the one which most equally divides the hull into 3 equal segments to most evenly distribute the load onto your supports, which is probably the rear one.
Thumbs up for this advice.
I have a multi-purpose trailer that I use to carry my raft & gear. It began it’s life as a snowmobile trailer with some modifications. Here’s a pic of how it started.
I added stake pockets all around the inner deck, and had 2 foot high metal mesh side panel sections made to enclose the inner deck for gear hauling. There are 6 panels in all (2 per side, 1 front & back). The side panels are easy to put on & take off. I don’t have a picture of the trailer with the side panels on. I added a wood deck with marine carpet over the metal textured deck. When I transport my raft inflated, I leave the side panels off and have 8 cross boards that attach to the flared side rails of the trailer.
My next project will be how to fashion a couple lightweight crossbars that I can attach to the side panels for carrying kayaks & canoes. If I can get the crossbars fairly even with the front & back panels, that would give me 4 points for boats to rest on & be secured to. I’d have my enclosed box for gear and I could carry 2, maybe 3 boats. My biggest issue is that my trailer has a short tongue, so boat length could be a problem. If I had it to do over, I’d get a trailer with a longer tongue.
@Raftergirl said:
My biggest issue is that my trailer has a short tongue, so boat length could be a problem. If I had it to do over, I’d get a trailer with a longer tongue.
There are plenty of relatively inexpensive tongue extenders out there…
Most of those hitch extenders have this warning - : This hitch extender is designed for using hitch-mounted accessories or for flat towing only. Do not use to tow a trailer. Using this extension will reduce your hitch’s tongue weight capacity by 50 percent.
That worries me. Will that be a problem?
@Raftergirl said:
Most of those hitch extenders have this warning - : This hitch extender is designed for using hitch-mounted accessories or for flat towing only. Do not use to tow a trailer. Using this extension will reduce your hitch’s tongue weight capacity by 50 percent.
That worries me. Will that be a problem?
Hmmmm…I guess that all depends on what your trailer’s tongue weight is now. It’s pretty easy to check it with a bathroom scale. Ideally you want your trailer tongue weight to be within 10-15% of the loaded trailer’s weight. It’s not like you’ll be towing something really heavy like a sailboat so as long as your extension isn’t too long you should be able to compensate by moving weight forward (or even adding a little). Even bolting a spare wheel up by the hitch would probably help.
I’ve owned and trailered sailboats before but I’m hardly an expert on trailers. Maybe someone else here is?
I don’t know the tongue weight, but the trailer itself weighs about 650 lb. with the sides on, carry capacity is 1460, and the GVWR is 2000. The trailer over all is 9.5 feet long X 6.5 feet wide, so not a large trailer. When I have my raft on it, it’s definitely not centered. More off the back than the front (you can see in the picture), and I do put more weight forward. I load up the front cargo area of the raft with extra weight to prevent too much bouncing & wagging. So far, in about 5 years of having it, it has towed like a dream. An extra 12 inches of space would be nice.
Gear plus a couple kayaks or canoes should be a lot less weight than all my rafting stuff. I’d use it on group trips with 4 people in my SUV, 2 boats on my roof rack, and two boats & gear on the trailer.
