I’m finally going to put a rack system on my van. About a year ago I asked for advice about systems and a lot of folks said EZ Rack or something like that. I looked at them but I actually like the look of the van and I want to preserve its appearance as much as possible. Here’s a link to the pic - it’s not a disco van, not that there’s anything wrong with that, but it has a pretty clean look and even though it specializes in family transport (all 7 of us) I like the look and function much moreso than a mini’van.
So I’ve done a little research and it looks like it’s going to be a Thule Rack. Believe it or not Yakima doesn’t even offer a system. Kind of odd since it’s a standard gutter mount?
Here are my questions:
Will the standard feet that hook to the gutters provide enough clearance for my Wenonah Prospector 16 (4" of rocker) when sitting on the bars on the gunwales?
Are two load bars sufficient or should I go with three. This will primarily be used for my canoe but I’d also like the capability of putting my road or mountain bike up there since I’m investing.
Has anyone had any problems with the extender bars that slide out from inside the load bars to help one person load something like this?
I’m planning on buying a step ladder to put in the van when I use this system but how difficult will it be to secure the boat? I’m 6’ 215 and I really dont want to climb on the roof.
Last one - how well do the gunwale load stops work? Will they damage my wood gunwales?
Thanks for the link but… I’m going to go with a permanant mounting system and I’ve ruled out teh EZ’s for that reason. Anyone got experience with a Thule or another workable system?
1. Will standard feet work with a prospector? I'm fairly sure that the standard height uprights will work.
2. Are two load bars sufficient? For what you are describing two will be fine. The three bar system works great for a three staggered canoe set-up.
3. Has anyone had problems with extender bars? In my opinion the new Thule system is a little on the rickety side and I'd look for a plan B such as the Maine Roll On Loader or just a far aft placed back bar (allows for easy rearward loading).
4. Will I have to get on the roof? The step ladder idea is a great one and will be all you need.
5. Do gunnel stops mar wood gunnels? I prefer to us bar pads insted on gunnel stops. I prefer to compress the pad rather that stressing the hull by strapping it to a hard surface. As well the pads absolutely will not muck up your wood gunnels.
I'd recomed the standard Thule gutter mounts with the 78" load bars. On a van the long bars are high up and generally cause very few problems. If you decide they are too long its an easy operation to hack saw them down.
What flavor of Prospector do you have? I just sold my Nova Craft 16 Prospector and may grab an Esquif 16 Prospecteur soon. Its great to see the resurgance of this fantastic hull design.
strickly logic, see if they make sense 1. Will the standard feet that hook to the gutters provide enough clearance for my Wenonah Prospector 16 (4" of rocker) when sitting on the bars on the gunwales?
Most likley. Bow and stern will pass the edges of the roof.
2. Are two load bars sufficient or should I go with three. This will primarily be used for my canoe but I’d also like the capability of putting my road or mountain bike up there since I’m investing.
Most likely and they should work for the bike, too. Besides, how do you make the 3rd bar in contact with your gunwales?
3. Has anyone had any problems with the extender bars that slide out from inside the load bars to help one person load something like this?
Not sure if you need it.
4. I’m planning on buying a step ladder to put in the van when I use this system but how difficult will it be to secure the boat? I’m 6’ 215 and I really dont want to climb on the roof.
Always a good idea. You need to reach near the center of your roof and get a good leverage to tighten the straps. If you find that you don’t need it, you can always send it to me. I am 5’6".
5. Last one - how well do the gunwale load stops work? Will they damage my wood gunwales?
Unlikely with the material Thule uses. When in doubt, you can always add a foam pad.
..I just thought you wrote that you wanted to keep the "look of the van". Nothing is more troublesome looking than Thules. Especially as they can be stolen if you leave them up there, even with the lock. Teimac had a recent post where just one of her bars alone was stolen--just the cross bar only--and it will cost her $150 to replace. The expense never seemed worth it to me. As most posters said to me, and apparently to you, nothing beats tha ability to take a rack system on and off quickly (I know, they could steal these too but much less likely to do so as it is not a $300 rack system--plus you can lock the two bars together with a cable and it is a hassle to remove. Mostly, though, you can take it off yourself in 10 minutes, so no need to keep it up there unless the boat is on it). Put it on you want to cart kayaks for a trip or all weekend, and have it off when you want to preserve the look of your van, get it in and out of the garage or other low places, go to work, etc. Plus the 2x4s that you buy and easily screw down to the Quick and Easy systems can be customized, (e.g. cut the gunwale slots and pad them) to your specific canoe or kayak.
Whatever works best for you, though. Happy trails, and driving.
Wenonah Prospector 16 RX Thanks for the thoughts. I got my boat about a year ago and I love it. It does a lot well. I opted for the center seat because I have 5 kids.
I have a Tundra that I usually haul my boat on but it’s leased and I’m racking miles on it. The van has removable seats which makes it perfect for extended trips and just sleeping inside instead of setting up a tent.
