I was just wondering how often you apply 303 or other UV protectant to you hulls. The directions say every 3 to 5 weeks. Do you have a time-based schedule or do you put it on after every x-times on the water?
Once every week or two
Because I paddle 4 or 5 times a week, and after that, 303 is no longer there.
To apply 303 to my 21 feet ski only takes less than 3 or 5 minutes.
By the way, my kid does it for $1... :D
are you willing to outsource your kid?
I apply 303 mostly to my dry top gaskets a few times a year but very rarely 303 my kayaks. It seems like a lot of work and I don’t really see a significant benefit other than making the kayak nice and shiny. I do 303 the rubber hatches though as that can have significant UV degradation.
My wife (the slave)
does it about once or twice a year.
I probably wouldn’t do it at all if it was solely up to me since I am the one that carries them and all it does is make them more slippery.
I think a silicon spray on the rudder cables, tracts and moving parts is more important.
I think it is more important to use it on a plastic yak than a composite one.
303 will help prevent uv degredation
of your boat. Is ther any other reason to use it?
I 303’d the inside of my canoe…
just before a 55 mile canoe challenge. Damn that canoe was slippery. It was like a skating rink. Bell suggests using 303 outside and in, but I won’t be putting it anywhere near where I will come in contact with it again. When I applied it I knew it was stupid-but I did it anyway.
I apply 303 about once a month, and I get the hatch covers on the kayaks too. It takes all of five minutes and I find it a good time to admire my kayak or canoe
You all don’t understand 303 application
I sell 303 in my shop and have pesonally used it for years. The folks at 303 will tell you to use it a few times per year. A lot of people think they can tell when it ‘washes off’ their hull. If you think this than you obviously are using it wrong and are not following instructions. There should be no ‘film’ or slick surface left. You need to continually wipe it down after aplication to the point the hull is no longer slimey or slick feeling. 303 is a chemical bond, you really won’t know by touch if it is no longer on the hull. Instructions state to repeatedly wipe after application with a new cloth as the previous cloth gets wet till you can no longer feel a slick coat and the surface is dry. It should feel dry to the touch if done right. They also recommend applying it on a cool surface in the shade, not on a surface that has been ‘cooking’ in the sun. And it isn’t just for poly boats or hatches. I put it on my carbon paddles, and trust me, if you are applying it correctly you will not have a paddle slipping out of your hands from slime residue. I’ve been trying for years to convince a fellow paddler who races marathon boats that a slick/wet 303 slimey coat does not make your boat faster or more ‘slippery’ in the H2o! If you don’t believe me do call the folks at 303. Also, someone here stated you don’t have to apply it to composite boats. You telling me you have never seen an older gel-coated hull, be it a canoe or kayak, that didn’t look dull or oxidized? 303 prevents this from happening on gel-coated surfaces. You just have to wipe it off a little longer till you get rid of the slick surface, again remembering that 303 is a chemical molecular bond and you really shouldn’t be seeing a film on your hull to think it is working , or protecting your hull. It is also usefull on PFD’s, rubber boots, dry bags, neoprene skirts and deck bags to keep the material from fading or sun rotting.
On a final note if you have liked 303 do try using ‘UV Tech’ produced by McNett, who also makes great products like ‘Seam Grip’ seamsealer for tents, etc. It works as well and some feel maybe better as a UV inhibiter than 303.