We had a low disturbance that sat between Bermuda and the east coat middle of last week. As it evolved and slowly moved north, it took on a classic nor’easter feel. Funny thing happened, a high pressure over the Maritimes pushed the low back down to the southeast. As it retrograded, the low picked up gulf stream energy and strengthened and morphed into into a sub-tropical storm Melissa. She kicked up swells 15’ plus at 12-13 seconds from Friday into Saturday. Way too big for my taste and physical endurance these days. Waited her out for a Sunday dawn patrol at the homebreak and was rewarded with beautiful head to head plus swells, cleaned by light off-shore wind.
About a dozen out in the main line up. Plenty of zippy, clean swells rolling in. Felt some butterflies in the stomach. The dude warming up had the right idea. Get a little loose before heading out.
After a couple of initial rides on the edge of the line-up, I was all in and worked myself into the heart of the line-up. Woo-hoo! Was seriously good long rides if one can linked a couple of wave peaks between some flat spots created by rips. Done right, folks were getting in some nice 150 yard plus rides .
As the sun, broke through the clouds, we started to get more spectators on the shore looking at the waves and sometimes the surfers.
Every good thing comes to end. We had astronomical tide and waves were beginning to cash on to the rocky shore. After a couple of close calls with the boulders, I called it quits after 2 plus hours.
This morning, we still had mellow Melissa swells in the stomach to chest range at 'Tasket, a pretty long beach break with plenty of space. Not as big or zippy but perfectly fine for my slightly achy body. Got in several more hours of surf to wrap up the long weekend.