So, we had some really clean, long period but small swells rolling in yesterday (2’@11 seconds). Lots of walkers but no one out in the break, not even the SUPers (which these waves would have been perfect for)…
Beautiful peel but too small for waveskiing. It was, however, perfect for getting some time in to relearn longboat surfing! Got in several hours reacquainting myself to what had got me into surfing in the first place – developing essential skills for dealing with surf landings in a seakayak.
Can’t say I got the full mojo back but I really had several enjoyable hours playing in a long boat. The biggest thing was to relinquish waveski techniques which center on leaning into the turn, carving into the waveface with the rail and using the paddle as a pivot point to leverage a quick turn or air pop. In a long boat, with a displacement hull, the more I leaned into the blade rudder, the quicker a broach and a (unfulfilling) bongo ride. Finally, figured I should sit level or, if anything, (raise the onside knee) to edge on the opposite side of the turn. e.g. edge on the left hand side to turn right, or edge right to turn left. The other thing I figured out is to catch the waves earlier, before the waveface got critical (standard practice for board surfers and waveskiers). This allowed more time for a straight run and some long loopy directional changes before the waves got critical and broke. At that point, the bow tended to dig into the trough, leading to a broach and bongo ride.
Another storm expected by next weekend. Depending on size, could be the waveski or the longboat. Either way, will get some surf in.
PS. Was surfing an Impex (RM) Mystic - 14’x23".