So, we had some really clean, long period but small swells rolling in yesterday (2’@11 seconds). Lots of walkers but no one out in the break, not even the SUPers (which these waves would have been perfect for)…
Beautiful peel but too small for waveskiing. It was, however, perfect for getting some time in to relearn longboat surfing! Got in several hours reacquainting myself to what had got me into surfing in the first place – developing essential skills for dealing with surf landings in a seakayak.
Can’t say I got the full mojo back but I really had several enjoyable hours playing in a long boat. The biggest thing was to relinquish waveski techniques which center on leaning into the turn, carving into the waveface with the rail and using the paddle as a pivot point to leverage a quick turn or air pop. In a long boat, with a displacement hull, the more I leaned into the blade rudder, the quicker a broach and a (unfulfilling) bongo ride. Finally, figured I should sit level or, if anything, (raise the onside knee) to edge on the opposite side of the turn. e.g. edge on the left hand side to turn right, or edge right to turn left. The other thing I figured out is to catch the waves earlier, before the waveface got critical (standard practice for board surfers and waveskiers). This allowed more time for a straight run and some long loopy directional changes before the waves got critical and broke. At that point, the bow tended to dig into the trough, leading to a broach and bongo ride.
Another storm expected by next weekend. Depending on size, could be the waveski or the longboat. Either way, will get some surf in.
Nice man! Looks almost like Nantasket, is that your spot on the north shore? I got out for a walk at Nantasket last Wednesday, nice little knee high waves with the occasional thigh high coming through, perfect for a long boat.
I’m just kicking some kind of three week cough, and the boy’s winter break starts Thursday, so I’m in house cat mode until after the holidays.
One technique you can try for avoiding the bongo ride is to try and back off the wave before it breaks. You ride the wave a little higher up and try to keep the ends free. I don’t think it’s quite as fun as sling shotting down the front of the wave, requires a bit of a balancing act, but does avoid the broach and bongo at the end. Or before it breaks you can try and cut back off the top, I’m sure it won’t be long before you figure it out.
That IS your homebreak. It’s 15-20 minutes more of a drive for me, but I don’t have to pay a toll needed for the homebreak, which I don’t mind if the surf is really good.
sing
PS. Took your suggestion. I gave up on finding a used Cobra Revision SOT (after 5 plus years of casual search) and picked up a used Dephin 150 for longboat surfing. Have to get used to wearing a skirt again.
Hope you enjoy the Delphin. Other than being a little heavy, I find it to be easy and fun to paddle, and fairly comfortable as well. It’s setup like a ww boat, so I think it’s easier to use a skirt on than a fiberglass surf kayak, with the big plastic coaming.
Maybe if there’s a January thaw I’ll have to drag my gear out and meet you down there.
Happy holidays!
Maybe if there’s a January thaw I’ll have to drag my gear out and meet you down there.
Happy holidays!
That would be cool. Whenever you want. My schedule is probably more flexible than yours since my “boys” are grown up and require minimal day to day care.
It is the most wonderful time of year
with storm swells a rollin’…
Wasn’t sure what kind of waves we were getting from yesterday’s storm. Was expecting smaller, short period waves. Instead, the buoy was registering waveski quality swells - 4-5’ @11-12 second intervals. To be safe, drove to the homebreak with the longboat on the top and the waveski in the cabin.
So, as hoped for, the swells were still rolling in this morning at 3’ plus @ 11 second intervals. Decided today was perfect for some longboat surf play, With Delphin still on top of the car, headed down to the south shore for a dawn patrol. Wow, one has to appreciate driving before first light on a major holiday weekend… Hardly another car on the road!!!
Got to the break just as the sun was about peak over the horizon. There was also a beautiful near full moon that was also on the brightly visible in the horizon (wish I took a photo of that too…)
After a little appreciation of the beauty and solitude of approach of daybreak on beautiful shoreline, I hurriedly got the longboat off the car, my equipment together and hit the water. Had a lot of fun with the Delphin. Yeah, it’s a longboat but with intentional surf specific design. The Delphin is most fun I have had in a longboat in a long, long time, Will have to review sometime in the future, after some more saddle time riding waves with this boat.
Here I am, back in a skirt again… It was worth it.
Another “warm” storm forecasted for New England, this Friday/Saturday, the first weekend of 2019. May be some smaller wind swells to play with in the long boat. Looking forward to getting my second surf session in with the Delphin 150.
@qajaqman said:
Was there a video in that other thread? It sounds like there was but I don’t see even a broken link.
Sorry. No one caught Jayson Bowerman’s ride on video, although several of us PNetters were there to see it first-hand. I how since figured how he was stern ruddering of the back deck on the steep waves, with endangering his shoulders. He was using a position akin to a backdeck (or Greenland forward sweep) roll set-up . https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=vJCvmo5RXeI
However, instead of facing into the water with his face and chest, he laid back literally on his back deck, kept his elbows down and palms facing out. He simple looked straight ahead, or over to one side or the other with a simple quarter turn of his head. Makes sense given Bowerman’s ww background.
@sing said:
Sorry. No one caught Jayson Bowerman’s ride on video, although several of us PNetters were there to see it first-hand. I how since figured how he was stern ruddering of the back deck on the steep waves, with endangering his shoulders. He was using a position akin to a backdeck (or Greenland forward sweep) roll set-up . https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=vJCvmo5RXeI
However, instead of facing into the water with his face and chest, he laid back literally on his back deck, kept his elbows down and palms facing out. He simple looked straight ahead, or over to one side or the other with a simple quarter turn of his head. Makes sense given Bowerman’s ww background.
I think I’d have to see it. My preferred roll is the reverse sweep so when I am ruddering I am also leaned way back and ready to quickly set up. But I don’t think I do what you are describing, and i certainly don’t have the control it sounds like he did. OTOH when I’ve surfed longboats (which I don’t/won’t anymore) they were 17-18’
@TreeA10 said:
Could someone please translate “bongo ride” for someone who has only been on lakes and slow moving rivers?
Usually, it starts with a broach (bow gets planted into the trough and the stern starts to swing around). You lose directional control and become parallel to the waves and/or foam pile. Now, if you haven’t gotten flipped over (and over), you are likely in a low/high brace, leaning into the foam pile to stay upright (where your lungs can breath!), and getting pushed/bounced towards shore until the wave loses its force. Bouncy side-surfing, aka “bongo ride.”
