I never saw/heard of one.
.. its actually multi-purpose ... it has a narrow square back for a max 5hp motor ... and 3 seats ... so it can be paddled ... but it also has a pair of oarlocks for the center seat.
the ID tag says its made by the Sawyer Canoe Co from Oscoda MI ... called a "Huntsman 16"
I am going to try to get a test paddle in it ... (neighbors have had it for 4 years - from a relative) and never had it in the water.
I am wondering how it handles in the water .. particulalry how fast it goes when rowed .. somehow it seems like it would be real fast .. it would seem to be a much more efficient hull than any rowboat.
Anybody have any experience in such a thing ?
Old Town 133
I had an Old Town Discovery 133 that was set up for rowing with a center seat and holes for oarlocks at the factory.
It weighed about 80# and was 42" wide. I found I could row much faster than I could paddle by myself, especially on a windy day, but it was faster with two paddling than one rowing.
I bought it to take the wife and two boys fishing. The stability was great when I was first trying to get them used to the idea of being on the water.
Not a bad arrangement at all. I would probably still have it except for the weight.
…, the Spring Creek Outfitters site, sells a variety of rowing adaptations. I’m thinking about getting one-only drawback is not seeing ahead without craning around. The Real Paddling Purists probably don’t like the idea.
You’re absolutely right … canoes are the fastest, cheapest, easiest to-live-with rowboats around. Comfort, durability and performance is all in how you outfit them … as the basic concept is very sound. Use lightweight spoon blade oars pivoting in sockets mounted to the outwales. Throw in a small beanbag for a comfortable center seat and get ready to cover large distances at 4-6 mph (nice low center of gravity makes it all very secure in rough water). Old Town sockets bolt onto Wenonah vinyl gunwales perfectly … making a 16 foot Adirondack or 17 foot Spirit a robust, versatile boat that can travel very efficiently (rowing effort seems easier because it’s symmetrical, i.e. requiring less torso work). Width above the waterline is an advantage for better oar leverage … so look for flare, not tumblehome when choosing canoes to adapt. Shawn
Over the years
My brother and I finnally got my father into a Kayak from his years of “if I can’t turn a key I’m not going” attitude. Part of the process turned out to be a 16’ Pelican square back with three seats. It is the best thing in the world to be on the water with… as long as you don’t have to carry it or paddle it for a long distance. If you have a small outboard and children its suitable as its stable (bomproof was what one person called it) as can be. It is a slug in the water and your arms will fall off before a whole day of hard paddling. If there is any hint of wind it will make tracking hard.
Row your canoe
It’s really very easy. Old Town used to make the Discovery 160K, 40 in. wide, two sets of oarlocks for the 16 foot length, plus three cane seats. I kick myself in the bottom for selling mine. Price is about $800, but OT has given them a new name and a camo paint job. Here’s the link: http://oldtowncanoe.com/canoes_predator.php#C160
Grumman used to sell and add-on rowing rig for their aluminum battleships.
In my youth I codged up a crude immiation of one out of 2 x 4’s and bolted it to the gunnals of our 17’ Grumman.
It worked great. Way faster than paddling tandem.
My father used to use it all the time for fishing. He may even still have it laying around in the shed.
So…are they faster than a fast kayak?
Why do I always want to know “whats faster” ?
Is there such a thing as a fast ‘rowing canoe’ that will smoke a fast kayak ?
If you consider a fast kayak to “cruise” (not sprint) at between 4.5 to 5.5 knots (6076 ft/hr) … or between 5.2 to 6.3 mph … then YES … most efficient canoes (composite) that are at least 16 feet (and have less than 2" rocker) can easily reach and maintain these speeds if rowed from a fixed seat with 6-7 foot spoon-bladed oars pinned in sockets affixed outside of the gunwales that span at least 34 inches (wider equals more leverage). “Lean” 17-18 foot canoes (i.e. Wenonah touring hulls) actually make it quite easy if the rowing station is set up to optimize good stoke dynamics. Beyond 6.5 mph, all kinds of human powered boating becomes severely limited by technique and breathing (O2 Max) capabilities of the “driver” … but up to about 6.5 mph, the mechanical advantages of rowing propulsion allows even an “average” person to drive a fairly modest (non-racing) hull relatively fast (5-6 mph) without their technique quickly deteriorating because of fatigue (torso, arms, etc.). For specific example … a Spirit II (Wenonah) if well set up for rowing … could maintain 5.0 to 6.0 mph over a few miles … cruising, not racing !!!
Surprising that no one mentions Voartex
which is the most serious and effective rowing rig ready to install in canoes. Sliding seat, wide outriggers, spoon blades. Just don’t put it in a short boat; you need at least 17 feet, preferably 18.5 to allow a Voartex to show its full potential.