Un-named ocean storm gifted MassBay with 4-5’ swells in the 11-12 second intervals. The offshore wind was a bit tough at 17-23 knots. Did a great a job on cleaning up and steepening the waves. But, it also made it a work out to catch up. Any let up on the sprint usually resulted in being blown over the back of the waves.
I took the longer Cobra ReVision for extra speed to get out to and surf the offshore reef on the ebbing tide. Also brought along my waveski to surf the inshore break with the incoming tide. Surfed for over a hour alone at the offshore reef before two locals paddled out to join me. Spent over 2 hours out there. Then came back in, switched to the waveski for another 2 hour session on the inshore reef. What a great day!!!
Had not been to the north shore “home break” for almost two years because of the heart valve surgery and the ongoing disruptions with the Harbor tunnel repairs for the past year. Was nice to have several locals asking where I’ve been and welcoming me back. The guy out on the offshore reef noted that I was on a “different ride.” Told him I had the waveski back in the car but wanted the longer ReVision for the outer break. At the inner break, another local paddled up and said he recognized my car and was glad that I was back surfing the break. Ditto, similarly a third local. Nice to have a home break where others know me and my rides (surf and street)!
“Localism” exists, like it or not, especially in smaller out-of-the-way surf breaks. Here is the rationale – agree or not – for localism from a well known Hawaiian surfer pro (from a multi generation surfing lineage).
Here is what happens without a semblance of order and respect:
My north shore home break definitely has localism at play, but I earned my way into the line up with controlled surfing and respect for surf etiquette. My south shore beach break has way more beginners and visitors but the beach is 3 miles long. If I paddle .5-1 mile away from the public parking and beach area, I find ample waves to play largely alone. And, right now, with winter around the corner, there are no crowds to speak of. The surfers out in the south shore break in this part of the calendarare largely those who know what they are doing. Mutual respect given.
Several years ago my son and I took our waveskis to Hawaii. We had a couple of tense moments when it looked like we were going to meet the local enforcers. To our surprise since we stayed outside the primo breaks and took just a few waves, and showed we knew what we were doing, we got invited to surf the main breaks, lots of the regulars wanted to know more about our wave skis and they were canoe surfers and wanted to share their ideas about different ways of riding waves. I suspect the mass of people who started surfing during the pandemic era may have soured more than a few local about the invasion, I know I was unhappy with how big and inexperienced the crowds became, but I always knew spots I could paddle to, where beginners would not be able to get to. In many ways at some of the worst beaches in California for localism, the localism has more to do with group tribalism, machismo and politics than it does with actually keeping order in the line up.
Control, respect and etIquette are the “key” to the line up (if not the “kingdom”).
The “localism” at my homebreak is not just the surfers, but the regular beach walkers and elders who sit by the sea wall in their folding beach chairs. Smile, say Hi, or give a nod (and don’t throw trash), will often lead to conversation. They share how long they have been in the area, the storms that theyhave seen and lived through (my north shore is often seen in the news during nor’easter storm coverage). Of course, soon they ask about where I am from and how i ended up in their part of the waterfront. Appreciate their place, respect the folks and one generally gets an acceptance or even a warm welcome! Mahalo!
Always wondered how the surf paddlers (before SUPs) broke through the (jn)famous localism of Santa Cruz boardies to start the annual Santa Cruz Surf Kayak Festival. Here is the “unofficial” three part history that talked of the earlier years. Great read (for surf zone paddlers):
Thanks for posting that, I’ve never heard of Paul McHugh or Rasyad Chung; I got all my oral history of surf kayaking waveskiing from Mike Johnson. A lot of my learning days seem like a lifetime ago. I was glad I got to meet a lot of those characters and learn a bit. I think I have a video from the day the Ventura contest went triple overhead and Dennis J. is sitting in his aviators drinking from a martini glass. Jim Grossman is gone now too. Steamer Lane will be something I remember till the end. (paddling out after running back and forth forth for contest bib, pumped with adrenaline getting outside and then throw up like crazy, and riding a few lack luster waves. Not very heroic, but hey I did it.
Much respect for MJ for his role in the design of waveskis and surf kayaks and the development of the sport. But, have to admit that I was disappointed with his “wave hogging” on a practice session in the Steamer Lane line-up. With surf paddlers from all over, many for the first time out on the Lane, MJ took upon himself to try to jump on every wave possible. Kind of obnoxious “alpha” behavior.
Not to mention when we first met. LOL. I also met Barracuda (Kim), Santa Cruz Pam and TsunamiChuck (I think) for the first time
Definitely!!! Santa Cruz cemented by love for surf paddling. My longest ride to this day is still the one in a borrowed Riot Boogie some local loaned me for the novice mens division at SC. On a practice session, I caught a wave on the outer left edge of Steamer Lane and rode the wave, paralleled to the SC pier, all the way into Cowells Beach. Amazing. Gratitude to the guy who loaned me his boogie just because he saw my posting here (or in defunct Boater Talk) asking about where in Santa Cruz I would could rent a plastic surf boat for the comp. The guy didn’t even know me but he dropped the Boogie off for me a day before the comp to practice with and he picked up the boat after I was done at the comp. I don’t think I was able to buy him dinner or anything.
I am glad for the friendships made through surf paddling! Time passes and things change but I’ll keep on riding and stoking 'til I can’t. Mahalo!
Appreciate your offer, Peter. I went out to Santa Cruz three years in a row to compete, using up vacation time and resources “for glory!” LOL! Got on the board twice tho’!
Got time and resources to go after the “Old Farts” division, but not feeling the drive… I am feeling good just staying put and stokin’ at my local breaks these days.
Just saw on the news that a part of the Santa Cruz pier/wharf collapsed into the surf. Fortunately, the three who went into the water were rescued! Even bigger swells in the days ahead!
We got some surf of our own (and a “white Christmas”) in New England for most of this week. After the Christmas gatherings will have free time to ride. Looking forward.
