My usual paddle is a Bending Branches carbon (I forget the exact model). Are there any paddles that are particularly good for longer distances?
Racers and people doing long distances are often using wing paddles, which if you follow the correct stroke pattern, are faster than a standard euro paddle. But they also have some limitations, such as not being as good for bracing nor rolling. This is the route may do when they are doing multiple 40+ mile days in a row.
Others go a different direction, and aim for a paddle that has a narrower blade, which is generally easier on the joints than a fatter blade. Easier on joints means you can last longer. You can go just as fast with them, but acceleration is usually less and you may have to paddle at a higher cadence.
The one change that would help in pretty much all cases would be to get a lighter version of a paddle, as you are holding your paddle up the entire time you are paddling, so less weight means less effort. You are already using carbon, so might not be much room here.
I’ve heard of one person who uses a Euro blade and a spare which is a Greenland stick. He then switches during the day from one to the other, believing they use the muscles etc. in a different enough pattern that there is some benefit.
I figure the most important thing is to be conditioned using the paddle and stroke you will be using. What I have consistently heard the most, directly relates to the catch of the blade in the water. For me, it is most helpful to think of the blade as being planted in the water, and remaining stationary. In other words, your paddle doesn’t move a little, or a lot of water - your paddle plants so that you can move your boat past it. Many, or probably most descriptions I read and hear describe a paddle as though its job is to move water, or move through the water. Things like “the paddle glides through the water making the forward stroke seem effortless”. Or “That blade sure moves a lot of water!”.
What does this all have to do with long-distances? With a perfect plant, you are strictly moving the boat past the paddle. This is as much resistance as you can feel at a particular speed, pulling your boat past the paddle where the paddle does not slip. (Some say that a wing blade actually moves forward as it is sliced outward from the boat - so this would be even a little more solid feeling.) Now if you introduce the idea of some water slipping off the edges and end of the paddle, allowing the paddle to move through the water in addition to your boat moving past the paddle, this causes a reduction in resistance. More importantly, you could have more spillage of resistance at the beginning of a stroke, when your arm is extended, and it is hardest on your muscles and joints. Less stress on extended muscles and joints probably allow you to paddle more comfortably for a longer period of time.
I always hear folks speak of Greenland paddles as being easy on the joints and good for long distance. I believe a big part of the reason is here. Many folks will tell you, and I suspect truly believe, it is actually some form of mystic magic when using a Greenland paddle. I don’t argue - I actually like the idea. I mean no harm suggesting anything less, but I still like to think about it. You can also find things like Nimbus paddles, who make a couple nice quill-style paddles (Squamish, Chinook, Mistral) - http://nimbuspaddles.com/touring/ I have a basalt/carbon Chinook, and based on that, Nimbus does some really fine work.
One explanation I’ve heard is that with a wing paddle, the loading is at the beginning of the stroke, and with a Greenland, the loading ramps up more later on in the stroke. I think this suggests the same thing I suggest above. If you’re winding up your stroke, planting, and then pouring on that wound up power, that’s where you hear racers talk of all your power in the beginning of the stroke. I think Greenland paddles and quill paddles allow that resistance at the beginning of the stroke, when your arm is extended, to spill off some. For better or worse? Depends upon with whom you are talking. That’s my take on it anyway.
In regard to your Bending Branches paddle, I really took a liking to their Navigator paddle. It’s a great example of low swing weight, as the wooden blade wants to float up from the water if you dip it and just let go. The rest is just a teeter-totter on a fulcrum, so while engaged in a cadence, a person is never really lifting much of anything. Don’t take it to mean you have to “hold” the blade down to keep it underwater. The weight of your hand and arm are more than enough to do that without thought. It simply means you’re only really lifting the weight of your arm up from the water. So I like blades with buoyancy, whether wood or foam core. The Navigator will give you a pretty solid catch though, so it won’t have the properties of something like a Greenland or quill-style paddle for the initial pull phase of the stroke. You mentioned you had a Bending Branches paddle, so I thought I’d bring up that “swing-weight” concept in relation to wooden/foam-core blades. I find the Navigator just has a really nice shape that makes maneuvering strokes feel very natural and unforced, and a really light feel during a cadence.
Apart from the paddle and conditioning pace is key for me. If I want to go far it takes time. If I want to for a long time I need to set the correct pace to last all day.
Want I like to do is watch where I insert the paddle usually by something floating or a set of bubbles on the surface. Then I can see how much the paddle slips as I pull the kayak to the paddle.
Cape Fear, you are a veritable encyclopedia of paddling. I like the looks of the Chinook.
Lots of good comments. Thanks. I tried a wing paddle a few years ago and could feel a difference. I was considering an Greenland, but something on the web site made it sound like I’d need to use it with a narrow kayak. I have a day tourer and don’t do oceans, and don’t roll. My most extreme kayaking is choppy bays. I have a couple of trips I’m hoping to do this season that will be 17 miles.
I use both a Werner Cyprus (23 ounces) and a Greenland.(26 ounces). My kayaks are 22.5" and 21" wide; for longer distances I prefer the 21" kayak because it’s faster. I like the Werner for power and bracing; the stick for headwinds. My technique is better with the Euro than the stick, but that’s on me, not the paddle.
For me personally, paddle weight is important and for longer distances, seat comfort is paramount. If your legs, or butt, or any part of your body starts hurting, you’ll be miserable.
CapeFear always gives good advice, so think about it. With good technique and a happy cockpit, you’ll be at the 20 mile marker by the end of the season.
Greenland paddles don’t require a narrow beam kayak. In fact, because the blades are so narrow you don’t need as much clearance as with a “spoon” blade in placing the blade alongside the boat and can use a higher angle. I have used my Greenland paddles with kayaks as wide as 26" and even while paddling in the bow of a tandem canoe. I carry a standard blade breakdown paddle under my deck lines on longer trips to switch off occasionally, but I usually find I can paddle all day with the Greenland with no fatigue or joint problems.
The lightest swing weight in a blade shape that works for you. Worth paying more for less weight.
For me… the Greenland paddle is the better tool when it’s windy. For whatever reasons the wind never grabs the GP and tries to snatch it out of my hands like with the euro.
Baydreamer,
You’ve lit a particularly rich thread here!
I’ll keep it simple and just suggest what I’ve come to enjoy using for distance workouts and races.
Lendal Carbon Cadence
https://www.the-river-connection.us/products/lendal-cadence-carbon-blades-straight-shaft-2pc
See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
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Hyde Park, NY
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If I’m going for a long paddle in my big boat, the Werner Camano is the paddle of choice. On the other hand, if I don’t plan to go far, I always choose the Werner Camano.
- The one you have in your hand is better than the one in the store.
- It is a personal thing. Everybody will have their own favorite. See if you can try some out and see if they fit your stroke style.
@Overstreet said:
- The one you have in your hand is better than the one in the store.
- It is a personal thing. Everybody will have their own favorite. See if you can try some out and see if they fit your stroke style.
And that may change over time and trials.
My preference is the Epic Relaxed Tour in full carbon with adjustable length from 205cm to 215cm and burgundy shaft for my narrower kayaks. I have a longer version that adjusts from 215 to 225cm for my wider kayaks and solo canoes.
Very light, relatively small blade (less stress than Werner Camano, Kaliste or Swift Mid Swift).
@PaddleDog52 said:
@Overstreet said:
- The one you have in your hand is better than the one in the store.
- It is a personal thing. Everybody will have their own favorite. See if you can try some out and see if they fit your stroke style.
And that may change over time and trials.
“Bird on the hand vs bird in the bush?”
@willowleaf said:
Greenland paddles don’t require a narrow beam kayak. In fact, because the blades are so narrow you don’t need as much clearance as with a “spoon” blade in placing the blade alongside the boat and can use a higher angle. I have used my Greenland paddles with kayaks as wide as 26" and even while paddling in the bow of a tandem canoe. I carry a standard blade breakdown paddle under my deck lines on longer trips to switch off occasionally, but I usually find I can paddle all day with the Greenland with no fatigue or joint problems.
This is what made me think that I’d need a narrow beam kayak. “Generally, the loom must be at least as wide as your kayak. If your kayak is wider than a standard Greenland kayak, you may have to improvise.” From this site- http://www.tandjpaddles.com/Choosing_a_Paddle.html
And I have to admit that I don’t even know what a loom is.
@baydreamer said:
@willowleaf said:
Greenland paddles don’t require a narrow beam kayak. In fact, because the blades are so narrow you don’t need as much clearance as with a “spoon” blade in placing the blade alongside the boat and can use a higher angle. I have used my Greenland paddles with kayaks as wide as 26" and even while paddling in the bow of a tandem canoe. I carry a standard blade breakdown paddle under my deck lines on longer trips to switch off occasionally, but I usually find I can paddle all day with the Greenland with no fatigue or joint problems.This is what made me think that I’d need a narrow beam kayak. “Generally, the loom must be at least as wide as your kayak. If your kayak is wider than a standard Greenland kayak, you may have to improvise.” From this site- http://www.tandjpaddles.com/Choosing_a_Paddle.html
And I have to admit that I don’t even know what a loom is.
The loom is the shaft between the blades.
From chuck Holst’s instructions:
http://www.qajaqusa.org/QK/makegreen2.pdf
Length of the loom (S). The length of the loom, or shaft, should be about the width of the shoulders or the span of the grip with the paddler’s elbows against the ribs and the forearms straight out. Normally, the thumbs and index fingers grasp the ends of the loom while the last three fingers grasp the roots of the blades, so your measurement using the second method should be from center finger to center finger. For me, both methods yield about 18 inches, though 20 inches seems to be fairly common among documented paddles. If in doubt, err on the short side. Then, if experience shows that the loom is too short, it can be lengthened by whittling away part of the blade roots—or you can use the sliding stroke.
All in all pretty flexible - The clasic Greenland Qajaq width is something like hip width plus a fist or two. My looms are around 18.5" and do fine with a 23" Arctic Tern.