Hi y’all due to some personal events in my life (that i’d rather not get into) i’ve decided to get into Kayaking. i’ve done some paddling in my youth but would really like to get fully involved!!!
what are some things you wished you had known when first starting?
Thank you in advance for any advice i’m flying (or should i say paddling haha) pretty blind lol haha!
That many paddlers get used to a too long paddle with too much feather angle and (as a result) too much hand spacing and then they pass on the advice to use too long paddles with too much feather angle and hand spacing…
Learn how to paddle properly using your core muscles rather than just your arms while keeping your arms in a paddle box configuration and driving your legs into the pedal on the same side as the paddle blade in the water. Learning to do a proper forward stroke will go a long way to help your performance and enjoyment. How to wet exit and self-rescue. How to edge the kayak to help turning and paddle strokes such as sculling and bow rudder strokes. Some Instruction to properly do these things well.
If you put your geographic location in your header, along with the types of water that you have access to and types of paddling you’re looking to do, you will get more useful advice. And if everyone did it, then you could understand more quickly if someone’s response is going to be relevant the kind of paddling you do.
That’s funny.
Welcome and I recommend you start by reading old threads. You’ll find that virtually every question you ask has been answered. By reading dufferent topics, you’ll be able to figure out the style of paddling you would like to try.
Different environments and conditions require different types of equipment and preparation. By seeing the challenges, you’ll be able to ask more focused questions.
I would recommend lessons. They are super-fun and you’ll learn how to paddle efficiently as well as safety and rescue. Added bonus often of getting to try out equipment before deciding what to buy. Have fun!
Today, with more advice, choice and adjustable paddles, it could be called funny perhaps.
But about 40 years ago it put me off from kayaking.
Rent kayaks at first. Test ride kayaks before you buy. It is worth traveling a fair distance to test ride a kayak you are contemplating buying. Buy used if you can for your first kayak, at least wait for a good sale, as you gain experience it is likely you will want to move to a different kayak.
When you are first learning, relax as much as you can. Keep your head centered, and your hips loose and relaxed. Take time to feel how the boat reacts to the water conditions and your movements and paddle strokes.
Buy a quality used boat. Taking a class is a great idea. Learn to read water, how to paddle, and learn about rescues. Wear a PFD and dress for submersion. Safety first.
One step at a time. Stay off big lakes and rivers until you get some experience.
I’m one of the ignorant ones. I started with a 220 cm paddle, went to a 230 cm, then a 240 cm, because the short paddle made me real like I was reaching.
The 240 cm worked fine for my paddling style, until I tried a 250 cm. The longer paddle allows me to recover faster when I exceed my aerobic threshold. Moving my hands outward (10 cm is 3.93 inches, so that’s almost 2 inches per side), allows me to recover faster. My cadence (72 to 80 strokes per minute) is essentially the same with either paddle. The longer paddle extends the power phase of the paddle cycle without increasing the transition between the exit and the catch. My logic for going to a 260 cm is to test how it impacts my average speed and endurance.
While I agree that a shorter paddle is better for high angle, because it reduces the power lag between the exit and transition to the catch (if you don’t believe me, have somebody measure the distance), the same is not true of low angle. Although I prefer longer paddles, that doesn’t mean longer is better for everyone. However, a longer paddle can offer distinct advantages in low angle, if the person can handle the leverage, manage and control catch placement, prevent oscillation through the power arc, and maintsin a favorable cadence (higher cadence reduces the power lag during transition of power from one side to the other; a higher cadence of 80 spm maintains the hlide and counters yaw far better than 50 spm).
Below is an end of season run. Can you point out. where the 250 cm is hurting my performance in a tubby Tsunsmi. The down spikes are short breaks to hydrate at two mile intervals, where I reverse directions (paddle with 10 to 15 mph wind and tide from behind or reversing into the same conditions). Is that trip with a 240 or 250 cm paddle. Low angle makes the boat waddle, but can you tell if the boat has a rudder or if it’s being edged to stay on track. Do you have suggestions regarding paddle selection, tracking, efficiency . . .
I don’t disagree with the comment so much as I find it limiting. Most of all, comments like that derides any suggestion to the contrary. Despite my preference for longer paddles, I would never suggest anyone start with a long paddle. On the other hand, I can explain the advantages and how to decide whether it might be prudent to try a longer paddle, so I would appreciate being able to offer advice and let the individual decide whether I’m a clueless rube, rather than having my input dismissed as a lack of awareness.
I’ll second lessons. The truth is most people just buy a kayak and float down the river without a clue. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I think it’s more enjoyable when you use proper technique and learn how to read a river. One of the groups I paddle with float without a care in the world and then get frustrated when they can’t avoid obstacles, predict where the current is going to take them, spot the difference between a rock and a small wave, etc. They still enjoy themselves but they don’t understand why sometimes they get dumped or stuck in a shallow spot. Learning to control the boat and read the river is worthwhile. Join a local paddling club - they usually have free training days.
Thirded for lessons. And you make make some good paddling buddies at the same time.
I agree with lessons, but that cam be a limited option for some paddlers. Issues include finances, availability, time, or distance to the courses. At one point, I didn’t have the financial resources to even buy a kayak and gear, the time to attend, or the ability to assess the quality of the training. Even the information on the forum varies widely, yet I have no doubt it’s always offered with the sincere hope of helping.
Part of the pleasure of kayaking is the trial and error. I started out paddling canoes on mild whitecwater rivers. When I finally had enough money to buy a paddle boat, I selected canoes more for flat water for several reasons. Primarily because our old canoes got wrapped around obstacles. A sound option would be to take classes. However, I didn’t like shuttling cars, enlisting dedicated drivers, limiting the duration of a trip to a fixed course, or relying on water flow before scheduling a canoe trip. Besides, even if I had training, many of the passengers I took out had only a passing interest in canoeing.
An important question was presented to the OP: What style of kayaking do you hope to experience. Again, the advice is well intended, but at the point of my preparing this post, I’ve yet to see a clarification.
At the risk of being ostracized, I don’t mind pointed out that much of what I learned through trial and error has been challenged by far more experienced kayakers. Through the process of trial and error, I came up with different conclusions that work for me. Consequently, I’ve concluded that money spent on classes would have been wasted on me.
I can only suggest that if time and money is not a limiter, go ahead and take classes. Kayaking and canoeing really isn’t expensive or hard to get into, but much depends on each person’s goal and the environment. New paddlers should definitely learn recovery techniques, seek the company of paddlers with local knowledge about conditions, and at least research. Above all, read past posts.
working your way up with paddle length is probably a sound method, so not ignorant at all.
Most paddlers would prefer a more precise advice and that is were the problem starts.
I don’t know your physical specs. nor what paddling type you envision.
So I’ll give you paddle advice based on my quest for an optimal paddle.
Bear in mind my choice is racing.
Start with your height - and if you shoulder to torso is similar length as your torso to your feet.
At that height with body measurements like that I’d say start with a cheap paddle in about the 230 cm shaft length. This will cover a wide variety of boats up to about 24-25" wide and narrower.
If you feet to torso is longer than your torso to shoulder then go with a shorter paddle, if the converse is true go a bit longer.
and if you are less than 6ft go shorter the paddle sizing guides are a OK place to start but will not give you the right paddle for you but will get you close enough.
Next you need to determine if you are high angle or low, if you are low you may want to start at 235-240 if you are high angle then you may want to go 225-230 somewhere in there… and figure on a blade surface area of 600-612 Cm2.
A high angle blade will be shorter and wider and a low will be longer and thinner.
from there you need to determine what you want to paddle for
Touring - that paddle won’t be optimal but it’ll give you a good place to start.
Floating about or lazy river paddling - It’s fine.
Racing - it absolutely won’t be right for you.
eventually you’ll figure out if you need to be longer or shorter based on your paddling style. and you can ditch the box store paddle and get yourself a decent paddle.
but don’t listen to anyone who says start with the most expensiveist paddle out there, they have already figured out their shit. so rather than throw a ton of money at a paddle that I guarantee won’t be right for you get the cheapest one you can find that aligns with your height and paddling style. form there pay attention to what you are doing so you can determine what changes will give you optimum performance. then you can start to spend money on better more expensive paddles.
as for boats, figure out what you intend to use it for then ask. for advice. based on some more datat points I think I can give you pretty good advice. and since I’m a miser I try to do everything on the cheap.
but first tell us about you physical dimensions what you envision to be paddling and where. as it all matters.
I started with a 240. Now I use an adjustable from 220 to 230 depending on the width of the boat.
I also switch from a wide blade to a narrow one depending on how my damaged shoulder feels or reacts at the time.
Agree. Not sure how this will work out for me, but there is only one way to find out. That’s one reason I suggest not changing paddles unless there is a specific feature that becomes objectionable or annoying.
I prefer Werner paddles for several personal reasons, but have always found the Aqua Bound paddles to be more forgiving and a better price value. I typically assign my paddles when hosting a group, based on my perception. Then I encourage them to swap paddles. New paddlers typically pick the heavier Sting Ray or Manta Ray over the lighter Kalliste. That includes quality paddles like an Aqua Bound carbon paddle or equivalent Werner Little Dipper with 84 sq in blades. Especially when considering the paddlers are kids, the preference defies logic in my mind, but it also shows that price and weigh preference is not universal, nor is length.
In summary, you have been given some great advise.
Get lessons. Mine have all been self taught. Fun but can get very expensive.
Buy equipment based on how and where you intend to paddle. As sexy as they are, you don’t usually need a sea kayak for a lake or river.
At a minimum, sit in what looks good and better yet paddle it if you can.
Comfort is king. Don’t listen to “you’ll get used to” stuff like leg and back cramps.
I make that comment based on your assumed age amd my actual.
Based on my comments, I’ve steared you toward a good " recreational " kayak. Lots of room , comfortable seating, good stability, capable of handling moderate weather, and capable of decent speed.
Dagger and Wilderness Systems have boats like that.
Lessons are a great way to start. You will learn safety and basic strokes, about different types of boats and paddles, and much more. You will avoid developing bad habits and paddle more efficiently. In addition, introductory classes are generally fun and you’ll meet other people to paddle with.
Three critical things, always wear a PFD (lifejacket), learn how to do a wet exit, and learn how to do at least a self-rescue.
You will get more relevant advice if you tell people what you want to do in a kayak and where you want to paddle. Touring, day trips, camping, photography, fishing, exploring, nature watching, etc. Protected small lakes and flat rivers, whitewater, big open water, surf, etc.
Answering these questions will go a long way in determining what kinds of lessons you should look for as well as what kind of boat you should look for. Of course budget and location play a major role.
As others have said buy used to begin with. It’s about half the price and boats don’t change that much year to year. With minimal care a kayak can last for decades. Few people stay with their first boat they buy as they learn the pros and cons of it. No boat is perfect for everything. You can almost always sell a used boat for what you paid for it.
If possible try several boats of the type that you feel are what you want. If a local outfitter offers tours, take one or more. Ask the leaders a million questions. Some outfitters that offer tours will give you a credit for the price of the tour or a discount if you buy a boat from them. They may let you take a boat along that you are interested in. If there are any clubs nearby, ask if you can meet with them to ask questions.
