That’s a good idea, but I’m a creature of habit. With paddles, I tend to feel if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. The Werner foam core line is impressive. Aqua has a great line, but their models had only evolved to the Werner Camano design.
I’m interested in how the new line performs.
Push - Pull…Same Thing.
I have found most of the higher quality euro paddles have slightly oval shafts, enough to feel the
orientation of the blade.
We may be getting a little(?) off topic but I believe Ken Whiting said it best. Feathering the paddle works better as you go to a higher angle paddle stroke. I spent most of my paddling life in a canoe so my angle is quite high using a 60* feather. Using a low angle stroke I find a lot more wrist twisting with a feathered paddle so I keep it flat.This is the second time I have seen this happen. A person’s post is not in regular drop down linear fashion, but has to be actually scrolled left to right in order to read it. What is going on?
I have no idea how it happened. First time it happened to me
I even tried to put on returns when I wrote it. Let me now if you find out what went wrong!
I don’t know what you mean by “ put on returns,” but this happened to me when I was trying to exchange messages with @Marksmann, his posts seemed to end with the first line, but you actually had to physically scroll right to left in order to feed it. It stopped doing it with him, maybe he knows what is going on, but it is weird.
Testing testing. I have a theory as to why it post weird and you have to scroll. If you put a space before typing......like we were taught for proper paragraph punctuation.......then it does this.
Testing testing. I did not put a space before typing this…lets see if it post up correctly.
So basically, don’t put a space before typing and it won’t do that weird scrolling text.
Good catch Marksmann! Yeah, don’t write in indented paragraph form.
@paddlerNH, I believe when feathered the blade can be oriented to exit with the power side of the paddle facing the kayak. That way it can shed water rather than lifting and flinging it. It also reduces any blunting force of the blade if it dwells in the slipstream of water flowing past the boat.
These pictures show the rooster tail from an overly aggresive paddling stroke. That same paddler delivers efficient splash free strokes when cruising at a high speed by taking advatage of the feathered blades.
Such effort is expendable and inconsequential for a limited period (for up tp 30 minutes or around 2 mikes), but such levels can’t be sustained for much longer durations.
I’m hardly experienced in canoeing, but I switched from the J-stroke to a simpler turn of the paddle that allows a little rudder input. Although it creates some drag, about the same amount as a kayak rudder, it more easily counteracts the one-sided paddling force. That works well when paddling solo and better still if another paddler keeps a steady rythem up front paddling on the opposite side. A competent paddler in front minimized the amount of correction needed to track properly. Right or wrong, it’s how I prefer to control the canoe. The rudder orientation used in the canoe stoke eventually influenced my kayak stroke; not so much for directional control as much as to reduce drag.
When I started kayaking, I was surprised by the effort to paddle a kayak. Then I was using 9 ft Perception Swifty. There isn’t much to recommend about that little kayak, because the short length hampers tracking, and the 30 inch width made it difficult to reach cruising speed and maintain glide. It also exagerated the effect of hull speed. Although I had the power to climb the bow wave, the boat would fall off speed, and the short length caused the stern to bury under the water up to within about six inches of the coaming. It wouldn’t glide. I could compensate for drag from the width but not overcome the bow wave. That made me analyze the dynamics of paddling, because my arms and shoulders fatigued quickly. Partially due to the limitation of the hull described by the hull speed equation but mostly from inefficient paddling technique.
You’re the second person to reference whitecwater paddling as it relates to feathered paddles. Not having the whitewater kayaking bachground, I don’t fully understand the value of feathering. However, I had the opportunity and fortune to observe what I consider the flawless excecution of the feathered technique. Not only did the paddler eliminate flinging water as the blade exited at the end of the power stroke, but he also managed a splashless catch.
As I don’t have any formal paddling training, I learned from hard experience and by watching the flailing technique of the average paddler. I’m curious about your perspective on whether the feathered blades helps in the catch/exit and in keeping the blades perpendicular to the paddling force.
A detail I have noticed in different paddles and techniques is that any ribbed or grooved paddle blade will pull some water up with it on any stroke that’s not real slow. The blades on most of my GL paddles don’t do it, and the blades on the Kalliste don’t do it. But having a bit of water collect in the shoulder of a groove or rib can’t drain off in a tenth of a second, so having some dripping water coming off the blade is going to happen all the time unless the stroke is so slow the water had time to run off. Even my ribbed GL and Aleut paddles do it some.
This is basically an advertisement, but look at the pronounced torso rotation Paulo is doing in this video, and how the GL blade exits the water. You see no water pulled up and no splash. He’s really a master at the use of the Greenland stick. So despite the fact this 1 minute vid is an ad, you can still learn about what John is saying about splashing by watching him use that paddle and how well it works. Seems effortless and super smooth. It’s not a flailing action and no awkwardness is evident at all. The GL stoke is a very low angle stroke and the cut-out is done in a way that it seems no splash is done at either the catch or the recovery. He makes it look easy. I am not as smooth as he is, but I am getting better.
@szihn that low angle technique is essentially what I try to model. You mentioned the smooth unhurried stroke. If video playback is normal speed, cadence is between 50 and 60 spm. While his speed is not that high, it’s a reasonable pace compared to his effort. Paddle length and blade area is equivalent to gears in a car transmission. Reaching a given speed for a 110 sq in paddle and one with less than 85 square inches of surface area depends on moderating output. The big blade accelerates faster, but the small blade simply takes longer for the paddle cadence to match the speed of the boat. Pushing beyond the capability of the paddle will show up with a splash at the catch. That doesn’t mean the boat won’t go faster, it just means you’re losing efficiency. The level of efficiency you strive for depends on how fast you want go, how much energy you have to spare, and how much abuse you want to impose on your joints. Extending the paddle length doesn’t give you more power, it simply allows you to dwell in the power range longer. Theoretically, it doesn’t matter if the length slows the cadence, because it doesn’t change the transition between exit and catch - unlike a longer high angle paddle which delays the transition from exit to power, length, the low angle transition is only a matter of inches longer. Therefore, the length you need is the length you can handle without going anerobic (measure that threshold by your breathing). If the longer paddle is too long, it will push you beyond your aerobic threshhold and impact speed, either positively or negatively. I’ll find out this season.
The primary advangtage of low angle is the short transition interval between the exit and the catch. Notice the slight hitch after the power blade exits, when he pauses for a fraction of a second as the paddle reaches level, before plunging to the catch. I’m not sure why that delay is there, unless he is setting up for a deliberate, efficient catch.
As I mentioned to you before, watch as your blade enters the water. A spash in front of the blade blunts forward progress, while a splash from the power face means you’re slapping the water, shocking your joints, and wasting energy. Similarly, watch your exit. If you fling a pint of water, that represents one pound of weight at the end of a stick. Multiply spm by 60 minutes by the duration of the trip to figure out the weight you moved unnecessarily. Then calculate the paddle weight coupled with the swing weight and distance its lifted. If the equation meets your expectations, or it doesn’t bother you, keep doing it. I don’t claim to be right, just that I think about it and try to mitigate the minutia. For me, it paid off. Some people just like to paddle without worrying about the details.
In a sprint, residual energy after the race is energy that didn’t improve your finish. That works for 400 meters which is over in minutes, or 2 miles, which is the anerobic limit of most paddlers. Covering 3 miles requires a more metered output, and the energy output equation changes again for 10 or 30 miles.
The key is to find the sweet spot of the boat design, so you can extract the most miles per calorie. Converting the glucose aerobically gives the best efficiency. The difference is like running you engine in choke mode or on cruise control. My goal isn’t how fast - it’s how fast can I cover a specific distances without energy depletion. I want to have enough surplus energy that enables me to burn out my reserves in the last 2 miles (20 to 25 minutes) of all out effort. That’s where the GPS is critical, and the speed/time graph is helpful to verify hitting the mark. You can see that pattern in a good run when speeds in the last 2 miles is above the average speed. If it drops off in the last few minutes, that balance shows an effective strategy where sufficient power remains to handle an emergency, or unexpected condition.
If you look at the graphs, you can see the areas where I had an assist from conditions. Rather than trying hit 5.7 or 6.1 mph in that phase of the trip, I stayed closer to 5.3 mph to conserve energy for the resistance I expected during the return in the opposite direction. Still you can see the yellow and red lines in the two graphs that indicate I was exceeding my optimum energy output. Yet I still could manage an elevated power output in theclast two miles before a sharp drop off where I effectively bonked. I only use the GPS, but Craig uses the whole range of devices to monitor heart rate, speed, oxygen, blood sugar . . . Consequently, he calculates his outputbto the tenth of a mph. All that while paddling a 175 Tsunami barge.
(upload://ijzfX851Ax6aGEHfK04gcyjibPy.jpeg)
By burning off that residual energy, it helps build anerobic capacity for the next trip. ove use to I try to eliminate any delay which is why I manage a standard 72 spm, as well as short periods at 80 spm which takes a higher level of consentration.
The power lapse in low angle is miniscule compared to the high angle stroke, where the next power phase of the stroke is the length of the paddle hoovering overhead. That’s why a shorter paddle is better for the high angle stroke. Compared to the low angle stroke that benefit from the longer paddle. If you focus exclusively on a clean catch, the exit happens automatically.
If you rely on a GPS and haveva graph that illustrates speeds through the course, look at the spikes. If the spike range looks like a seiesmograph during a 7.3 tremor, contemplate whether you are going anerobic during that phase. You can’t exceed and sustain your physical capacity for long. Your body sensors shut will shut you down to prevent death from oxygen starvation. The red and yellow lines show the limits of my physical ability. A flat line shows that you’re managing your physical output efficiently.
Good explanations John.
Still snowing here and so the water’s cold and so’s the air. Thus far this year I have not been on the water. We had enough warm days with some wind that the ice is all gone (or nearly all gone) and if this year is like other years it will take me a few weeks to get back into the groove and work through the sloppiness I get from not paddling for 4-5 months.
I’ll stay in touch with progress reports or horror stories, depending on how things go. I’ll probably be on the water inside the next 2 weeks.
Agreed. I had one of these for a season or two, but I sold it because it drew more water than I liked. It’s not heavily ribbed, just a raised trident design for stiffness, but I still got soaked in the slightest breeze or unless using a very low angle stroke at casual cadence.
Getting warmer here. Tomorrow will be iin 70°, but I’ll be at the shop. Temps are going to remain in the 50s during daytime, but water wilm be a while to catch up.
Paulo is a great model to follow. However, not everyone likes low angle. I prefer it but mainly by default due to the bad left flipper that hampers my high angle capabity. However, I’ve come to value it, even if I could manage it, butbthen, that’s just me. Craig is better at high angle. I still don’t fully understand the full benefit of feathering, but l have a better appreciation after I watched Craig in action.
Still waiting for my new Werner. Maybe I’ll bring you a couple nice 2x4s if I find them in the store.
Try two 1X2s and one 1X6. Glue the 1X2s down the center of the 1X6 and the lines all blend together well. You end up with a laminated loom and the diamond shape all shaped down perfectly. In that way you can get a “JYak Size” GL paddle.
GL Paddles by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
See the one on top. It’s a 3 piece laminate. The bottom one is too but the way it’s ribbed it easy to see the 3 piece construction. But the top paddle looks like it’s made from a solid piece of wood and it’s not. It’s stronger then a 1 piece, and if you have large hands and hold to the formula of measuring from the juncture of the for-finger and thumb to the 1st joint of the middle finger, you will find a 2X4 is actually too narrow for you.
Laminated paddles are better in my opinion, because they can be more stable and use more select wood. Much of the paddle is cut away. I use the cutoffs to expand my blade.
One disadvantage of the Greenland paddle is the symmetric blade design. If it get too wide, the tip that hits the water first will torque the blade and rotate around the axis of the shaft. You mentioned that you can’t the Kalliste slightly, but I go for a 90° presentation which offers the most resistance.
We build power differently. You and Craig are about raw power, while I a little bit closer to Paulo with a higher cadence. It might take 40 seconds before I reach cruising speed, but once I reach it, I try not to vary the speed more than .2 mph up or down. Of course the GPS isnt capable of greater point accuracy than around .2 mph, so if I hit a .4 mph under my target soeed, I try to hit a .4 mph over my target. The goal is an average of the average.
Rather than go for power, try building your speed slowly to just stay in front of the kayak. Your goal should be to coax the boat rather than force it.
The Werner and the Aqua Bound Paddles are different animals.You pointed out how the Aqua Bound has more dihedral which makes the paddle more forgiving. The Werner requires greater paddling discipline but it delivers. Wet I owned different brands, but the Werner line has provided a step above the others. I have no reason to look elsewhere.
Wow, you’ve told me many times to “build speed slowly”, but I didn’t think you meant 40 seconds. I was thinking more like 8 strokes per side. You mean SLOWLEY. I’ll look into that when I get out there.
The cant of the blade both in using the Warner and the GL and Aleuts doesn’t cause the blade to rotate for me. It causes it to slice into the water instantly and bury itself. When I use any of my paddles I find the slight cant simply makes them easier to use (for me anyway)
I see some videos where the cant is about 35 degrees. I get no where near that much with the euro blades. I don’t know what amount of angle they are at, but from vertical, the top edge is about 1" farther forward then the bottom edge, so it’s a long way from 35 degrees. It’s just enough to keep the catch from fluttering and to keep the power portion of my stroke from feeling like it wants to go a different way. I find if I can keep the flow going from bottom to top, even just a little, it’s far easier for me to control and to go for hours on end without getting tired.
I can do a totally perpendicular stroke with all my euros including the Kalliste, but only with the Kalliste and only when in my Chatham do I find I NEED a bit of cant to not feel the flutter.
But I can’t see any difference in my speed with that slight cant as compared to a straight blade, so rather then trying to make each paddle have a “custom stroke” I just finalized on that angle with them all.
With the Greenland I do cant more if the water is rough because each stroke is in position to turn into a brace and also each stoke has a bit of bracing effect to it even when not needed. But even with my GLs I find I don’t cant as much as some of the videos show. My GL blades are from 3.9" at the narrowest one, and 4.625" at the widest one, the amount of lean at the top is still about 1" on the slimmer blades and about 1.5 with the widest blade. So it’s more cant then with the Euros because the euros are far wider. But the “set” of the blade, (if measure in inches) is close to the same.
1" at the top edge for most of them and about 1.5" with the oversized GL.
