alternative lashing

-- Last Updated: Jul-30-07 7:43 PM EST --

I ran across this method and wanted to see if anyone has tried it before. In essence, you take a 4in pc of webbing, fold it in half, glue the ends together, put a hole in the ends where glued and then pop rivet each piece of folded webbing to the bottom of the gunwales 6in apart.

This method would allow for lashing in bow and stern float bags (or a center one for that matter) or easy removal of lashing for paddling without float bags, but still have the loops for clipping in gear.



Precisely the reason I drill the hull
and lace it that I DO NOT want to weaken my gunwales by drilling a series of holes in them. The hull will be less affected by a series of holes than the gunwales.

webbing loops
I’ve installed webbing loops in several boats. I think it’s a better method of installing bags &/or lashpoints. Easier to remove outfitting, and allows a tighter weave of cords across the bags.

My WW boat, which I did not outfit, has the hull drilled. It also works fine but I have noticed some deformation in the terminal holes amidships.

IF you do decide to use web loops…

A flat tip soldering iron cuts the webbing and seals the edge in one motion.

No need to use any fancy glues to tack the ends before putting the hole in, good ol’ contact cement works fine. It’s a non-structural connection - that’s up to the rivets, screws, or bolts.

A 16d nail, heated on the stove, or with a propane torch, and held with pliers, melts a smooth hole in the webbing ends. You may have to ream the hole with the hot nail a bit, or use a smaller nail, depending on the size of your fastener.

Use a washer up against the webbing - don’t count on the poop(sic)rivet head to hold it. I’ve always used threaded fasteners but I guess folks have had good luck with rivets - I just like the control of screws and bolts (no grinding or prying when removing, repairing, or reconfiguring)

Oh yeah, I spoke with Mohawk on Friday, my small outfitting order had shipped that A.M.

I have a simple method.
I drilled the holes for the laces. Into the holes I tied loops of paracord. When I want the float bags I lace the loops up with more paracord. When I want the area for gear, just remove the lacing and the loops fall to the sidewalls of the canoe out of the way.

some good ideas…
so you prefer bolts to rivets? what diameter bolts do you use- 3/16 ?

bolt sizes
You would have to ask for details ;^)…

Quite frankly I have no idea on the size. I think they’re somewhere between 1/8 and 3/16. Small bolt sizes are sized a bit differently.

I bought all my stainless nuts and bolts at a GOOD local True Value. (Need 3 stainless nuts, 6 fender washers, and 2 grade 5 bolts? Just go to the racks and pick out your 11 pcs and pay.)

But yeah, I prefer something I can remove or replace like a screw or bolt, rather than a nail or a rivet.

IF you use bolts, get stainless and get the stainless hex locking nuts with nylon inserts.

It’s likely that heavy, hollow, gunnels - like a Mohawk’s - could be drilled from below and a sheet metal screw used for installation.