Type of anchor makes a difference With some types of anchors, the line (OK, lode for those who are into nautical terms) goes around more than a cleat. It is on an automated pully system. Cutting the line would require getting to the front of the boat, leaning over, and cutting the line. With suddenly changing water levels, as happens sometimes in the Susqy where you fish some I think Pilotwingz, by the time you know you’re in trouble, the front of the boat is already underwater and the rest is planing down too. Getting to the line would be near impossible fighting strong current, boat planing down, and the fisherman without a PFD on as so many do when on a bass boat. Further, by that time, cutting the line may or may not be helpful. Current is unpredictable on a submerged boat. The hydrodynamics of boats are designed for boats on top of the surface (which is obvious but worth noting in this situation).
Using a trolling motor, eddying out, wedging on a rock, and any number of other means of holding a spot are MUCH safer than anchoring.
Perfect description You described it perfectly Big D! I would think that in that situation one could have less than 30 seconds before the boat went under (worst case).
barbells ? I to searched for a suitable anchor but I wasn’t sure about an anchor that would possibly get stuck and not be able to get it back. I ended up using a 5 lb. weight from a barbell set seeing it had a nice hole to tie a rope to and was vertually untickable. You have then the option to go higher in the poundage if you wanted for faster current.I have used a 5lb. with good results sometimes though in the wake of a motorboat you would get moved but usually not to far. But you probably don’t want to be solidly tethered to the bottom anyway, hince the bobber effect. That might be cause for some ancious moments. good luck.
How about a stakeout pole If you are in say less that five feet of water, a stakeout pole is another option for securing your position on the water. No lines to tangle or cut and will hold in any current. The pole would have to be used in conjunction with an anchor trolley, for flexible bow position. But again, this is for shallow situations.
canoe anchors I use a couple of 8 lb dumbells on my tandem canoes and a bit smaller on my solos. If you are anchoring in a current, the anchor point needs to be off the bow or stern. Here are a few pics of my Champlain. The hardware is from west marine, simply a side mount pulley and a cam cleat. I have one set up on the bow and one on the stern. I like this setup also because is stealthy to deploy and if you pull the anchor up tight it doesn’t bang around. Also is you need to release the anchor in a hurry, just release from the cam cleat and your are free. It works very smoothly, infact too smoothly one time when my anchor line was a bit short.
what type of bottom is in the river? that'll dictate the style anchor you need. I would go with a Danforth style anchor w/ the sliding ring. every anchor will eventually get stuck...at least with the Danforth w/sliding ring, you can paddle upstream from anchor and let the ring slide down to the flukes and give a pull to free it by pulling it out in reverse from the direction it went in. Most other anchors styles when hung up are there to stay since you won't have the leverage/power with a kayak to free them( 'cept maybe the mushroom type too) downside of the danforth is: it doesn't hook up real well in rock or shale unless it catches a "lip" somewheres. any anchor can get hung up in a rock pile or underwater cable or old shopping cart, etc. etc. and you'll be cutting the rope to get free. another option is to buy a anchor bag, you fill these with rocks to form you anchor. BassPro sells them. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SportingGoods_Boating--Anchoring%2B%2526%2BDock%2BSupplies--Anchors%2B%2526%2BAccessories_10151_-1_10001_advisor_CA.CategoryExpand_N_225006001_225000000_225006000
sash weights are great if you have access to them. These weights come out of old double hung windows, and can be had for free if you know a remodeler or a window contractor, or have them in your house. They are cylindrical, weigh up to 8 pounds ( three pounders are best IMO) and do not hang up on rocks or trees as easily as other types of weights. best of all, cut it loose if you do! I paint mine with rubber tool paint, and hook them to a retractable dog leash that is used to store the line. A quick lash on the deck, and you’re set.
Save a few bucks I am a cheapskate. I like to use what I’ve already got if I can. I use a homemade anchor. I saved a liquid laundry detergent bottle, and filled it with sand. Talk about cheap! This way you can experiment with different sizes until you find out which works best for you. Just buy a different size bottle of laundry detergent each time you need more. If you don’t want to be as cheesy looking as I am with a sand filled laundry bottle anchor, you can still use this until you find out the weight you need. Once you have determined that, you can buy a store bought one.