does anyone have a system tor rigging the anchor so it is easy to raise and lower from the middle of the canoe? if y’all remember any old posts in the archives on this subject i would appreciate it
One option is to figure out how to mount an eye bolt at the rear end of the canoe, atop where the gunwales come together. Then you simply run a length of anchor rope through the eye bolt, letting the anchor suspend from the back point of the canoe. Let the rope out to lower the anchor, then give it a quick half hitch on the thwart in front of your or alongside your seat.
Of course, mounting the eye bolt may not be easy, depending upon your canoe material and configuration.
I have a little more elaborate set-up. I have a Wenonah Vagabond, Royalex, plastic gunwales and end plates. I drilled holes into the end plate, in order to mount an anchor platform using bolts and wing nuts. The anchor platform consists of a short length of 1 X 4 wood plank, to which is attached one of those anchor cleats that works so that you can pull the anchor up or let it down by putting tension on the anchor rope, but when you let up on the tension the weight of the anchor locks the rope down. You can get them at Bass Pro Shops or Cabelas for $10 or so. The plank projects out past the back end of the canoe a few inches, and on the end of it is an eye bolt. The rope runs through the eye bolt. I use a length of heavy chain, doubled so that it is heavy enough for a good anchor but is short enough so that when it is suspended from the back of the canoe, it doesn’t dangle down far into the water. In reality, it DOES have a couple of inches in the water, which slows you down slightly when you’re paddling, but acts as a surprisingly effective rudder, so if I want to get somewhere fast, I have to get out of the canoe, go back to the rear, and put the anchor in the bottom of the canoe. However, I have an idea for a hinge system on the mounting plank that will lift the anchor entirely out of the water, and which I hope to perfect this winter.
I don’t know whether you’re wanting to use the anchor in still water or moving water, but if you’re using it in current, keep in mind that it can be pretty dangerous…especially if you use a normal anchor in strong current. I use the drag chain (covered with rubber…in my case a piece of rubber roofing material, but others use pieces of bicycle or motorcycle inner tube) on rivers, but have learned through a few scary experiences not to use it in strong currents, because if it is dragging along and gets hung up, you stop fast and it may pull the back of the canoe under water or flip you.
Here’s an excellent article
on how to do it.
Keep it simple
Here’s a simple system that’s inexpensive and easy to use. No tools needed.
I have 3-lb. folding fluke anchor and 75 ft. of line. The line is wound around a plastic “electrical extension cord winder.” This a simple piece of plastic that you can hold in one hand and wrap the cord or line around with the other hand. Cost is a couple of dollars at any hardware store.
When you get to the water, simply take some line off the winder and pass the entire winder through the grab handle on the bow end of your canoe. Make sure that the anchor side of the line is on top. Then bring both the anchor (on one end of the line) and the winder (other end of the line) to your paddling position.
When you find your spot, drop the anchor and let out some line. When you have let out enough line, tie a slip knot on the thwart in front of you. You are now anchored from the bow and have control of the anchor line from your sitting position.
When it’s time to move on, just undo the slip knot, let OUT some line, paddle forward, and pick up the line with the grip end of your paddle. Pull uo the anchor, wind the line on the winder, and find another spot.
I hope this helps. Good luck.