So I launched into my operation to replace the skeg cable on my rotomolded Wilderness Systems Tempest 170. It’s a 2004 model so…21 years old!
The skeg was almost impossible to raise or lower…so sure enough, once I got some slack in the cable and lowered the skeg, there it was: a big kink in the cable about an inch above where it attaches to the skeg.
Getting the whole skeg slider assembly apart was a pain in the butt. And I’m still not done! I may end up having to spend $200 on (I’m not joking) about $20 worth of materials from TopKayaker.com to replace everything.
The first challenge I had was getting the slider knob loose. It was partially stuck to the slider tube (even with the set screw completely taken out)…a bit of WD-40 and pushing/pulling with some pliers finally got it free.
The next problem is the set screw in the trailing edge of the skeg that holds the cable in place had fused into the little brass block it screws into. (Guess this happens after 21 years.) I didn’t know this until I managed to strip the 1/16" allen head on the set screw (which was easy to do because it’s so tiny). So now I’m stuck with a perfectly good skeg and a chunk of old cable stuck in it. I’ve tried everything to gracefully get the set screw and brass block out, no luck. So I guess my next attempt will be with a drill, and see if I can just drill it all out of there?
But I’ll probably end up having to buy a new set screw and brass block ($25) and a new skeg ($125 for a $10 piece of plastic…guess that’s the price you pay for 21-year-old replacement parts!)
And my final problem is that the cable is just supposed to freely slide out of the slider tube…but (of course) it’s fused inside the tube. I’ll go buy some Liquid Wrench and see if that will help…but really, I should just trash it all and buy all-new replacement parts (which will cost around $200).
IMPORTANT LESSON! Do not EVER drag your boat up onto shore with your skeg down! Because if you do, the skeg will push back up into its slot, and in doing so, it will jam and kink the cable. I didn’t do this with my Tempest…but the previous owner probably did. ALWAYS pull your skeg up before landing!
If anyone else has ever done this and has any advice, post up! 
In most cases it’s not dragging a boat up on a beach with the skeg deployed that causes the problem. In that case the skeg usually retracts with no damage. It is when you land on a beach, regardless of the position of the skeg, and you happen upon that one perfectly sized piece of gavel that ends up lodged between the skeg and the skeg box. Then when you go to deploy it, you force the slider and kink the cable. Most skegs use a relatively rigid solid wire to control the skeg. Once kinked, the cable almost always needs to be replaced. In most boats, this is a fairly involved process and unlike a rudder, that uses a stranded cable, there is usually no temporary field repair method.
Many people with skegs carry a butter knife so they can return to the beach and attempt to free the skeg and/or drill a small hole at the tip of the skeg and attach a short piece of line, where, if you are paddling with others, they can come alongside and attempt to pull the skeg down and free it.
Trying to drill out a set screw rarely works since most set screws are stainless or case hardened steel and harder that what they are screwed into. On rare occasions, a left handed drill bit and a lot of WD-40 or similar penetrating oil will grab the set screw and back it out as it heats up from being drilled.
Periodically working the slider and skeg through the full range of motion and rinsing with fresh water if used is salt water, will usually keep all of the components working freely.
Thanks for this. Your explanation makes sense! And yes, when I saw the kink in my skeg cable (which is 1/8" 7x7 steel cable, very stiff) I saw what you said—there was no way to get that kink out of it!
I also agree trying to drill it out is a non-starter, because even if I succeeded, I’d probably chew up something in the process. So I’ll just fork out the $200 on TopKayaker.com to get all new components…which hopefully will last for many more years!
I’ve heard that some kayaks use “rope skegs” which are far easier to repair (maybe NDK?). That sounds great, and I wonder why more manufacturers don’t use those?
And all of this (for me) is another reason why I’m a big fan of boats with rudders. Everything is on the outside of the boat so easy to see/fix/replace.
Yeah, why can’t you replace the cable with thin sail cordage?
My Daggers have rope skegs and I use 3mm Dyneema.
And I forgot to say, sorry about your difficulties and the huge expense of replacing the parts. That really stinks! But I still think skegs rule.
Most skeg controls are like stiff metal rods and need to push the skeg to operate it. Cord will not work. I’ve seen a couple of skegs over the years that use line, but I can’t recall the boats. One used a loop like the rudder deployment line used on many boats. The other had a spring loaded skeg. I don’t recall if the skeg was normally retracted or deployed when the line was slack.
I can only assume that the stiff cable system is cheaper to produce and install. In my experience, not the best design. Prone to failure and difficult to repair.
