Anyone know the Inuk paddles?

Probably also ask Reddit, but this seems more likely.
Inuk Paddles
The Inuk foam core carbon Euro paddles sound great, but I’ve never seen one or touched one. And local dealers don’t have them. Does anyone know them or anything about them at all; experience or even reviews? They also have some older models on offer like their “Q23” that also sounded interesting.
Thanks!

Tom at Top Kayaker carries them and He’s shown himself to be quite knowledgeable about everything I have ever asked him. He’s probably the man to talk to.

He is in New Hampshire, and you give no information about yourself, so it’s possible he’s a long way from you, but at least a phone call may be helpful to answer any questions you’d have.
603) 323-6016

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@szihn Thanks, actually in UK and… also… Inuksuk Kayak Sport paddles? I couldn’t see Inuk Kayak paddles (which is a different company entirely)?

@RichardBJ, I couldn’t find much info on line, but several features stand out when I viewed the link. Compare the Inuk paddles to the premium Werner line, like the Kalliste low angle and the Ikelos high angle paddles. Consider overall weight, swing weight, the way the sections join, and the blade design.

I’m sure there are better paddles on the market, but the question is how far do you have to search and how much do they cost. Compare the Inuk model you’re considering with the Werners. Look at the joint connection and blades. In the price range, the premium foam core blades of the Werner might be equalled but I’ve not seen better. The clean front and back surfaces of their blades are superior to mid-priced paddles. A streamline blade is more noticeable with the slicing action of low angle paddling, while the lower overall weight and swing weight are advantages with high angle strokes. Despite the light weight, the paddles are suprisingly stiff.





For members who are new to kayaking, paddle selection can be a mystery. I recall two posts from over a year ago: “Convince Me to Spend More for a Paddle” and “How much Should I Spend on a Paddle”. It depends on budget, demands placed on the paddle, and how much you appreciate a seamless connection to the water. In my opinion, the best strategy is to buy cheap paddles until you get the right length and square inch area of the blade. Use them until you find something about the paddle you want to correct, then upgrade.

Most paddles are adequate for a leisurely pace. Strength and blade performance becomes more critical as the paddle is pushed to the limit. Weight is a greater factor with higher paddling cadence, longer trips or if you want a more transparent paddling experience. Whether using a $300 recreation boat or a $5,000 composite kayak, the paddle is held in your hands and swung thousands of times each hour. Its your choice to hold and swing 42 oz , 32 oz or 23 oz. Don’t rely on overall weight, because an inferior paddle with a lighter shaft, but more weight in the blade, will have a pronounced impact on stiffness and swing weight. The difference between $150, $300 and $475 is significant, but so is the difference in performance and comfort.

Equally important to finding a quality paddle is availability. You’ll find Werner Paddles in most Outfitter Shops, where you can compare them to other brands. A full service shop will also make it a point to take care of warranty issues for you.

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@Jyak Thanks for the detailed comments. Certainly I will read that thread later. I am already a huge fan of Werner. I am pretty sure that when I started paddling in the 80s I got my hands on a wooden Werner (shaft at least) at a kayaking event and fancied one ever since (only confusion is I’m not sure Werner did wooden paddles and I thought at the time they were German!). …but it is the money. In the UK the One That I fancy is $750; (Cyprus). A “last years’ stock” full carbon/foam crank shaft Inuk is $250. Kayak Sport (HQ) ferrule. The designer/company is by Rob Feloy I believe who has an excellent reputation for kayaks themselves. …so it’s kind of a no brainer; but still it would be good to have SOME personal recommendation :slight_smile:
The point about trying all shapes and sizes with cheap ones until plugging for a final (expensive) one is good… I am tempted to do this, but you know there is this counter argument → I do often find with stuff in general, I buy cheap ones …eventually upgrading and that initial outlay ends up just adding to the final over all cost. I fear £70 here, £131 there and £99 here before pumping for a £300 paddle will mean I end up spending £600 instead of £300 !!! I do this type of thing all the time in various spheres. Anyway, thanks so much for thoughtful (and insightful comments). I will check out the info you have provided! …but meanwhile… I really would like to know if anyone bought an Inuk and could comment on the quality!! (I expect it is high).

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Among my various paddles I have a Werner Shuna (full Carbon), a greenland, a Nimbus, etc. My favorite is the Nimbus, also my lightest paddle. The Nimbus is a quill paddle (Chinook, full carbon). As an elder (even on this list), my arthritic left shoulder strongly prefers the quill style as the easiest on my shoulder. The reason I post is that the quill style is absent from most manufacturers’ offerings. For those in my situation, the quill is worth a try. Note: if you do visit the Nimbus paddle site, note that the prices are Canadian dollars.

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@rsevenic thanks for that. They are interesting those quills. Looks like a halfway house between Greenland and Euro paddle? I have to say I have wondered, when so many people now exalt the Greenland paddle (I’m making my first one myself!), why there was not something akin to this… and of course there is.

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@RichardBJ, I forget the forum has such a broad membership. Agree with your viewpoint. Using the forum to share experiences helps avoid much of the trial and error. As you point out, it can get costly incrementing until you find the right tool. At least by following that path, I now have boats, paddles, and PFDs to accommodate a number of family and friends. That’s why the second part of my post was directed more to new paddlers, so they can hopefully maje a more informed decision.

I exchange information with a friend who has fewer years in a kayak, but his exposure has given him more varied exposure in two years than I have had in 15 years. Depending upon conditions on the same lake, he might need on of three very different paddles. Basically a paddle is a paddle. All we can do is improve efficiency, increase strength, and reduce weight; however, Improvement comes at a price. What works for me may not be appropriate for another person. Part of the appeal is learning what suits our own specific needs. The best course is to share.

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@rsevenic, it would be interesting if you could post a picture of the paddle. I can’t find that model on the web search.

Here’s a link to the Nimbus site that shows their quill selection:
https://nimbuspaddles.com/collections/quill-type-touring

Thanks, I searched the and hit “view all”, but the site only showed tiuring paddles. How would you compare the quill paddle to the Euro touring style (it looks like it serves thecsame style) and the Greenland. Does the quill offer any advanntages over the other type, and how would you compare sizing for length and blade area.

@Jyak indeed paddles for family and friends is a great idea. Would happily let a friend paddle my boat… but I would hypothetically twitch a bit if they had my new £500 carbon blade in hand!

I have a 240 and 250 cm Kalliste carbon. If I go out with someone else, they use the 240. If more go, I give the guest an option of the Kalliste or Camano. Group trips are slow so the paddle isn’t as significant. I don’t loan padfles out, but don’t mind allowing people to use them when they accompany me. I harder on paddles than most anyone else i know.

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The link I referenced earlier shows the selection of the Nimbus quill paddles. The Squamish, for example, is their narrowest version. All are touring paddles and used like any other Euro blade for a low angle stroke. Nimbus recommends that the quill should be a little longer (e.g. 5 cm.) than your usual Euro blade because the blade length is longer.