i was pretty much settled on the 14' tern. the length is not a dealbreaker, but, based on the fact that i would want to take this thing into spaces where mky current 14' boat is the limit, and my anticipated workspace is much more accommodating to a 14' boat, and i had previously decided to build a 14' hard-chine, and then in a couple of years a 16--17' multi--until okoume fest. (http://www.paddling.net/message/showThread.html?fid=advice&tid=476046)
not that they did such a great selling job, mind you, but i did get to sit in a shearwater--there was too much wind to even bother with demoing the thing considering my skill level. the only thing i know for sure is that, visually, i do like the "recessed" detailing of the arctic tern coaming...
any advice or insight on the overall difference and/or deciding between the two? are there functional design issues (vs. visual) of which i would not be aware that come into play?
based on my "sit-ins" at okoume fest, i definitely *do not* like the keyhole cockpit (which actually surprised me) so i want a non-keyhole (feel free to enlighten my knowledge of terminology here) cockpit.
please keep in mind that, due to a back issue, when i learn to roll the technique will have to be modified and will not involve leaning back; and i do need a larger cockpit.
aolso, i will definitely (as in, not up for debate) be outfitting the "pretty little floaty thing" with a retractable rudder.
*waiting patiently for the generous advice of her more experienced peers*
Talking about the CLC Shearwater 14?
I haven’t seen a CLC 14 yet but the specs indicate a much shorter cockpit and rated for a shorter person and less weight.
"aolso, i will definitely (as in, not up for debate) be outfitting the "pretty little floaty thing" with a retractable rudder."
I have never seen a Tern 14 with a rudder. It doesn't need one, wasn't designed for one, will be difficult to install and in fact will ruin the boat. You might consider just buying a Tsunami.
Just watch "This is the Sea"
Definitely raise these questions on:
www.kayakforum.com which is Nick Schade’s kayak building forum. MANY questions are posted by newcomers and experienced builders alike. The community of folks are very helpful and there are also archives to search.
I am new to building, though will offer my .02…
I have never paddled a Pygmy boat, though I have met folks who love building and paddling them. I have paddled Eric Schade’s design ( http://www.shearwater-boats.com/ ): CLC’s new Shearwater Series…aka Merganser Series as designed and also sold directly by Eric. I would have built his Merganser 17 but it wasn’t a good fit for me. I did purchase hull panels for my hybrid Night Heron (designed by Nick Schade) from Eric, as well as other items from Eric over the years. He is a pleasure to work with. I believe he is currently moving from CT to ME.
The Mergansers ( Shearwaters )are wonderfully designed boats. Many folks love their Artic Tern 14’s as well.
“the only thing i know for sure is that, visually, i do like the “recessed” detailing of the arctic tern coaming…”
With some experience, you can modify your cockpit when building, though it is more difficult to do for a beginner with a sng boat vs. a strip boat.
“based on my “sit-ins” at okoume fest, i definitely do not like the keyhole cockpit (which actually surprised me) so i want a non-keyhole (feel free to enlighten my knowledge of terminology here) cockpit.”
The ‘non-keyhole’ is the ocean cockpit. I built a keyhole cockpit in my Night Heron, am building an ocean cockpit in my current sof project, and will build an ocean cockpit for my next stripper. Have you paddled an ocean cockpit? You might want to demo a few before deciding which cockpit you want to build. Again, it will be more difficult to configure an ocean cockpit with a sng design, than with a strip design. You can do it, but it will significantly change the look of you boat. You might want to take a look at the CLC Artic Hawk. Although it is a longer boat, it offers an ocean cockpit and also has a skeg. Neither the Arctic Tern nor the Merganser need skegs.
“please keep in mind that, due to a back issue, when i learn to roll the technique will have to be modified and will not involve leaning back; and i do need a larger cockpit.”
Hmmmmmmmm. Well…if you need a larger cockpit it would seem that you might want to reconsider and definitely go with a keyhole cockpit.
“also, i will definitely (as in, not up for debate) be outfitting the “pretty little floaty thing” with a retractable rudder.”
Again…no need for rudders or skegs with the Artic Tern or Shearwater (Merganser)…the design takes care of this issue. Since you are a beginner paddler, I would recommend you learning paddling technique in a rudderless boat.The use of the rudder will interfere with your skill development. In the fall I went paddling with a friend who has paddled for years. When we rented boats, she could only rent a rudderless boat, and she could not handle the boat. She complained about the boat’s handling…it wasn’t the boat…it was her lack of skills.
I would highly recommend your checking on www.kayakforum.com and paddling a number of the boats you are considering. You can also post on those sites to owners of those boats, and ask specific questions regarding the building and paddling of those designs.
Enjoy the process…I do.
Bob
I Can’t Offer Much
as I have not paddled either boat. As you know I have the pieces for a boat scattered on the shop floor, and took a look at the cockpit coaming. I believe you did not think the keyhole cockpit was great because it is smaller than what you are used to. The other option is an ocean cockpit which is much smaller. You might consider asking about a factory modification if you really really want a larger cockpit. It would not be real difficult to elongate the coaming and fit it in.
I enjoy having a rudder on my current boat and it has come in more than handy on many occations. Both of the boats you are considering have more rocker and are shorter than the boat that I am used to so they should turn easier. They will likely not track as well. I am undecided as to whether to put a rudder on my kit or not. I have been advised to add it later if I decide I want it. Adding it later would be harder than during the build of the kit. Still considering that point.
Happy Paddling,
Mark
differences
get the AT14 if you want maneuverability and a roomy cockpit. If you have to have a ruddered kayak just watch the demo sales for a QCC300 and get it when it’s cheap.
The Shearwater/Mergansers have tighter ends(less maneuverabilty) and smaller cockpit coaming.
IMHO
the Pygmy is an excellent choice. I haven’t paddled the shearwater but after studying plans we settled on the Pygmy Arctic Tern 14 for our s&g’s. We’ve had them out in strong winds and have never felt the need for a rudder.
I second the motion on the kayak builder’s forum. It’s a great site with lots of helpful folks.
thanks, everyone…
i forgot to mention they said they could cut a larger cockpit for me, though i forget on which boat he said it could be done, and we didn’t get around to discussing the additional cost.
cockpit: i’m currently in a pungo 140. that’s about as open as you can get without going to a canoe. 
as i mostly need cockpit length for getting in and out, so i’m looking forward to the tighter fit of and added control over a narrower boat. if necessary i’ll add thigh braces to fit.
rudder: supposedly the pungo does not need one either, but, after having been in a couple of situations with a serious tailwind where it would have helped, i want the option.
as for the suggestions of buying this or that…i’m not necessarily building a boat because i want another boat. i want to build another boat, because i like working with wood and want that connection with a boat i made.
oh, and based on what was said here, i’ll probably stick with the pygmy (pending the kinds of comments i get from the other forum).
thanks, again!
michelle
Warning!
Building kayaks can become habit forming. Oh sure, you’ll start with a s&g but you’ll probably wind up wanting to try the more graceful lines of a strip kayak. You’ll need more room for boats, tools, wood.
We considered shaving our collie this year to avoid having her hair permanently encased in my Outer Island but we just banned her from our garage instead and we put ourselves through an elaborate delinting and brushing process before we enter the “boat zone.”
build the AT14
you might be using too big/long of a paddle. The AT is more responsive and more likely to zig zag around if you are still figuring out how to put a paddle in the water to go forward and maneuver.
If you get a rudder don’t configure push/pull rudder controls, get pivoting ones.
WCP
Hey you should visit our local site www.westcoastpaddler.com One of the guys, Mark, recently built a AT14,with very detailed step by step and few others built other Pygmys.
question
Do you know any folks who’ve built a Pygmy but put in a continuous coaming recess and not just one at the stern of the coaming as the kit is designed? It sure would make the Tern/Coho more user friendly to have thigh braces integral to the finished hull and not an afterthought.