Too much free time at work…Has anyone ever tried epoxying in a small length of webbing (in an inchworm fashion) to a composite hull as an attachment point for float bags, packs, etc. I know that webbing attached to hypalon patches and little strips of plastic with d rings are available commercially, but I think the saltwater will corrode the chromed d rings, and as superficial as it may be, that the hypalon patches and would be ugly in an otherwise pretty hull. I figured a 5 inch length of polyester webbing soaked with epoxy would work, it would be invisible, and would not require a d ring.
Would it need to be overlaid with cloth to reinforce it’s attachment to the hull? It seems as it is, the webbing would make a stronger bond than those little gray lengths of plastic that are sold at most paddling shops. Would I have to add a d ring? Is this just a dumb idea and was reading this a waste of your time?
Mathias
Sounds like a great idea !
Why not experiment and make one then epoxy it to something in your shop, and then after it hardens attach something to it and give it a pull test.
It is amazing to me how tuff and strong epoxy is.
I wanted to add a sliding seat to one of my canoes, and used a fiberglass tractor type seat. I attached two pieces of aluminum tubing to the bottom of it using strips of fiberglass soaked with epoxy,and then did the rest of the job.
That was three years ago, and the seat has withstood many miles of hard paddling with my butt bouncing around on it.
cheers,
JackL
No need to experiment
Stitch & glue and strip builders have been making similar fabrications for a long time. I remember seeing a personal website in which a builder had chronicled his efforts, including webbing-based accessory anchors.
Maybe some of our builders on this board can offer up some appropriate links.
Jim
repost of previous information
Here’s something that Mike_McCrea posted a few months ago here on p-net:
I’ve installed D-rings (without the vinyl pad) in composite boats using this method:
D-ring attachments on composite canoes
D-rings with vinyl pads are easy to install on plastic boats, but a more elegant and secure D-ring attachment for composite boats can be created by leaving off the vinyl pad and attaching the D-ring with a combination of nylon webbing, resin and fiberglass tape.
Find “naked” D-rings (just the metal D part, with no vinyl pad) and mark the locations on the hull where you want to install them.
Cut a 4" long piece of webbing, 2" wide webbing for a 2" D ring, 1" wide webbing for a 1" D-ring. The webbing will run atop the flat base of the D. Crease the middle of the webbing and, using a small piece of duck tape, secure the D-ring so that it stays vertical on the webbing. The crease and tape will prevent the D-ring from later flopping over into wet resin as you work. Lay the webbing/D-ring assembly back in position on the hull.
Next, cut two pieces of 4" wide fiberglass tape; cut each piece about 5 or 6 inches long. Place the pieces of fiberglass tape atop the webbing (so that the tape forms the head and feet of an “I” across the webbing). Lay down a rectangular masking tape box outside the edges of the fiberglass tape.
Remove the fiberglass tape, webbing and D-ring and mix up some resin. Paint a coat of resin inside the masked area, being careful not to apply resin directly under where the metal bar of the D-ring itself will be positioned.
Position the nylon webbing (stuck through the D-ring) on the wet resin. Paint a bit of resin atop the dry surface of the webbing and lay the 4" fiberglass tape in place across the webbing ends to form the “I”. Finish the fiberglass tape with a touch more resin. Again, leave the area immediately under/around the (vertical) D-ring itself resin free.
Once the resin becomes tacky remove the masking tape.
When the resin has cured sand down the seamed edges of the fiberglass tape and apply another thin coat of resin to smooth out any rough spots.
Ohhh baby, nice and flush with the hull. No ugly vinyl pad. You can literally pick up the entire hull with one of these D-rings.
You can also use this technique to resin in rope loops; just cut a small piece of rope, fray the ends and resin the rope loops into place. You could certainly use a similar method to install webbing loops as well.
Yup
I used epoxy to glue down 1" webbing in my Osprey.
I’ve done it
with J.B. Weld. Make a loop of webbing, melt ends together, place a 1.5" nail through the loop, JB Weld it to the underside of deck. Now run your bungies and you’ve got underdeck storage.
computer crashed
I lost all my bookmarks, but I remember having that website saved. It doesn’t add much over Mike McCreas description except for a few drawings.
I installed webbing and d rings with epoxy and F/G tape in my decked sailing cane. They work great
Thanks everyone!
Along with c2g’s repost,I think I have enough to go on, but…
Ya’ll now have me thinking of epoxying in some small diameter rope to my hull, just under my gunnels in lieu of drilling nasty holes in my gunnels.
try this
http://www.rutabaga.com/product.asp?pid=1005883
that is what I am ordering for my boat.
Liveoutside
I fray the ends of the webbing back at
least 3/4". This spreads the stress over a larger area. And unlike Mike, I do not use fiberglass for internal attachements. I use Kevlar, polyester, or Nylon. Fiberglass is too brittle.
Depending on your gunnels, but on
my Kevlar canoe, I snap riveted short pieces of drilled alum angle stock to the gunnels. They work great for tieing things into the canoe and don’t look too bad.
another alternative
http://img238.imageshack.us/img238/7262/lashkit4yr.jpg
another alternatve where rivets are used
daisychainbyBelll
checktheBellllwebsite theymakejustwhatyouaretalkingabout