Best adhesive for rubber grommet?

Is there a particular adhesive that will work best to secure a flexible rubber grommet to a Kajak-Sport rubber hatch cover?

I’ve got the grommet installed in the center of the hatch cover and the water tube fits tightly in the grommet, so the setup is good.

However, when I remove the tube, the grommet can pull out so I’d like something to hold it in permanently.

This project is so I can carry my 3L hydration pack in my stern hatch. BTW, the hatch cover was purchased specifically for this purpose. It’s replaced with my original hatch cover when not needed.



flexible is the grommet ?

I can bend the edges upward.

rubber to rubber gluing is done with rubber contact cement. The hatch cover is rubber ?

But the directions are: do not join components until the cement is a wee bit drier than tacky. Then joining gives immediate adhesion when moved weakens or fractures the adhesive qualities

I assume if you prep clean the surface following online instructions…try Weldwood contact cement…then prop the grommet sides with plastic toothpicks …cut small truncated triangles off a poly gallon water jug to carry the cement under the grommet sides…smearing both grommet and hatch…time and pull out the toothpicks n press downn with thumb.

Have needle nose pliers along for grabbing picks.

one side of the grommet hatch cover glued should be enough but why not glue 2 ?

Weldwood glues are standard use here.

If the cover is plastic then take a look at 3M Marine Adhesive 4000 or 5000 quick dry.

cut wooden wedges slicing off a ? with utility knife for better drying space between hatch and grommet.

a toothpick width could jam the space with cement n not allow required drying.

a variable typical of fouling the first try.

Another way to go
A flexible grommet and a flexible hatch cover may just have too much give.

Can you put the grommet thru a large washer then through the hatch cover? That would negate the flex in the hatch cover.


Cut one from scrap fiberglass…


found a new one for me…strap washers

Rubber to rubber
Thanks, DK, for the suggestions. The grommet is 1.5cm in circumference and has to be manipulated into the hole in the cover. I guess I could attempt to use rubber cement, a drop at a time, while holding up one edge of the grommet. Am just not sure if that bond would be sufficient as it is a challenge to run the tube through the installed grommet, even with both wet.

If I screw up I can replace the grommet for 37-cents, but then would have to clean up the residue from the rubber cover.

Now thinking a simpler alternative may be to thread the tube through the grommet, install the grommet in the cover, and leave the tube in place. I have to use two tubes with a quick connector to reach the cockpit anyway.

Will see how that works out. Appreciate your help.

Don’t know,
but sure worth a try. Thanks!

Black RTV Permatex Silicone
Most auto parts stores. Works on water jacket seal components of car engine blocks and it matches the color of the hatch cover.

3oz tubes available with a nozzle dispenser. Peel up the edge of the grommet. Run your bead. Wipe off excess. Better working time than contact cement.

See you on the water,


The River Connection, Inc.

Hyde Park, NY

Thanks, Marshall
Will visit my local auto parts shop tomorrow.

yes that is

– Last Updated: May-31-15 7:35 PM EST –

what we do here with hydrophone/recorder/bilge pump/Pelican boxes with Curt batts.

A clear 4"x5"vinyl dry bag holds recorder/Garmin GPS held on top or in mesh spray skirt pocket Dry bag has a large thick nylon washer both sides bag with a nylon fitting going thru.

The common Locktite Adhesive found at Wal glues nylon to wire coatings and to nylon/nylon. 3M Marine 5000 glue nylon to Pelican, nylon to vinyl-under the fat wa$hers from M-C

Its a toss up whether Lock or 3M rules here. 3M should fix poly tubing to the grommet, or rubber to rubber or try a rubber epoxy, but the nylon fitting to rubber ? You may look to match a different grommet material or different material fitting to a different material hose achieving a better common glue joint...if the joint is of significance to your use age.

For example, the fatwashers both side mechanically joined with bolts onto a 3M surface with a nylon fitting glued in accepting a poly or rubber hose.

Remember the uh, hose clamps at correct dimensions.

You need not stay with the manufacturer's parts system.

Again, McMaster Carr has the hardware...rarely do I find a matchup for tubing and nylon fittings in local marine not in Port Townsend but prob downrange at Seattle's primo hardware store.

With the tubing and fittings find a ruler or digital vernier to measure and match. No guessing unless ura machinist.

General tools at Home depot may have a small rule with a sliding metal T on the rule good enough for close diameters.

But the digital from Summit Racing is a gas at $40

ahhh we have a fine cooling squall line acumin' up the coast.

auto silicone
tends toward a reliance on bolt pressure to remain intact. Left out in the open or under a ‘working’ (jiggling once in a while) surface silicone comes loose. Not tomorrow but in 3 months when you’re in Namibia. Never fails.

There may be a special purpose silicone in Locktite or Permatex windshield silicone in a smalli$h tube…but again that is not intended for a working surface but for rubber or epdm or ? to metal covered with acrylic paint.

Let’s see…there’s no sag super superglue$, 3M rubber adhe$ive, NAPA truck tire patch cement (Qt)…and contact cement a grade below NAPA’s. NAPA contains those violent and poisonous fluids cut thru shop wall bacon grease.

I have 3M rubber adhesive for sneakers(new only), various(long shelf life) and Titan Solstice hatch cover tubing. 3M beats Weldwood on the hatch tubing but fails to Weldwood contact cement for bicycle tube patching as too flexible.

Bottom line is garage repairs or fabrication with rubber to rubber on working surfaces is a PITA without pressure holding surfaces together.

The factory uses hotmelt glues in various success and durability levels…the glues tend to be water solvent and thus inexpensive ( #!as$%^&-000)

Notice bicycle tube repair has gone to epoxy coatings…like assembly line fastener fluids ready when install but again that is on a pressure hold surface.

In short…there is no glue for old shoe repair-rubber or whatever.

DK does glue!
And here I’m still at duct and electrical tape for fixes.

Another that may be worthy as it works on bulkheads quite well is Lexel. Longish cure time but sticks to most anything. (That hasn’t been previously coated with Aquaseal, so I discovered)

See you on the water,


The River Connection, Inc.

Hyde Park, NY


is rebranded 3M but I have forgotten what 3M

if you Duct, go for the $11-13 roll.

3M has tape…waterproof bear proof foolproof well not foolproof…$100 roll.

try for urethane tubes. Urethane is tops on acrylic for seam sealing the buggy.

Haven’t tried that on fiberglass.

the cheaper tube is made from soybeans.

Permatex worked

– Last Updated: Jun-02-15 9:40 AM EST –

Applied it last night to secure the grommet; checked this morning and it's pretty solid (thanks again, Marshall).

Instructions call for a 24-hour cure time, so won't attempt to thread the tube through the grommet until tonight.

In the interim, did a test paddle with a two-piece magnetized plastic clip that attaches to the PFD and water tube (using my 1.5L bottle stashed behind the seat). Best thing I've found so far to keep the bite valve precisely where I want it without being tethered to the tube and boat in case of an exit.

I like the clip option of that arrangement better than what comes on my Nalgene tubes. I’ll have to get me a couple of those.

See you on the water,


The River Connection, Inc.

Hyde Park, NY

Added security
I used a small strip of duck tape at the end of the clip to make sure it doesn’t slip off my Astral strap. The tube attachment is very tight but doesn’t restrict flow. This gizmo is a winner.