I’m wanting a canoe cart for Christmas. What carts do you have and how do you like it? My wife said I can spend $100.00. I see there are many for sale in that price range. I will be using it to go from the car to the river. I hope to go to many different places to paddle so I’ll be pulling over all kind of terrain and distances up to 100 yards.Thanks for the help.
cart
I bought a Trek bike trailer at Goodwill for $13, took it apart and bolted it back together so that it was wide enough for my canoe. The wheels pop off easy, so it all just slides into the bottom of the canoe. It has 20 inch wheels (I’m portaging through the city to the lake most of the time) - so it rolls easy.
And, that would leave you with $88 for a new PFD, part of a good paddle, or a lot of beer.
Best Canoe Cart
Seems to be the www.castlecraft.com CC-16 which costs exactly twice what your wife thinks appropriate.
Bigger wheels are better; they go over bigger obstructions. Aluminum is lighter than steel, and Ti and Carbon are not available.
Folding is good too.
So it goes
Interesting but looks very low
We have foot high steps down to the waterside and use this
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Boating/Canoes-Kayaks-Small-Boats/Storage-Transportation%7C/pc/104794380/c/104710680/sc/104608080/Cabelas-CanoeKayak-Carrier/734560.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fboating-canoes-kayaks-small-boats-storage-transportation%2F_%2FN-1100579%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104608080
It does fold up. We need the height for stairs and a couple of rocks. Its a center loader too. No matter what you get avoid end loaders.
Consider & weigh the functional factors
Although I don’t own one, I have done research on carts over the years. One way to approach a product purchase like this is to tease out all the variable factors in the product, and then to balance these factors in whatever decisional calculus best meets your needs. Someone recommending some specific cart may be doing so on the basis of one or two factors than may be less important to you.
Carts vary in at least the following nine factors:
- Cost.
- Material: plastic, steel, aluminum, titanium (?). This affects strength and weight.
- Construction method of joining the permanently attached metal parts: welded or bolted. Good welds are probably less likely to loosen or come apart.
- Balance/attachment point. Some are meant to be placed under the end of the boat. Hence, you have to hold half the weigh of the boat as you are pulling it. This might be okay for a light kayak. Other carts are enter balanced, which carries the entire weight and is probably better for canoes.
- Wheel size. Large diameter wheels are better for rough grounds having bumps, stumps, roots, logs, rocks or palatial steps. Smaller wheels are just fine for smoother grounds.
- Wheel width. Wide, balloon or double wheels are better for sand and mud.
- Portability. Some carts fold up or come apart for ease of stowage in the boat. This can be crucial if you want to carry the cart in your canoe or kayak hatches.
- Weight. Somewhat related to strength and size, and can be important if you want to carry the cart in your boat.
- Axle width. Carts usually divide into wheels-under-the-boat types and wheels-outside-the-boat types. The former usually have smaller wheels positioned on short axles under the hull. These are tippier, put the boat up higher (even with smaller diameter wheels), and can fit through narrower tree openings and portage paths. I believe this type is required in some parks. The second type has a longer axle with the hull resting in between the wheels. This results in more overall width and a lowered boat, hence more stability, and perhaps bigger wheels.
Deciding the importance of these factors can help you make an intelligent choice.
Been wondering about C-Tug
Don’t know if it is high/wide enough for canoe use. Haven’t had the chance to see one in person. Canoers using this?
Are you handy ??
[http://thumb10.webshots.net/t/69/569/7/7/92/2220707920088080270GAurDi_th.jpg](http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2220707920088080270GAurDi)
I built this from a baby jogger that I found at a thrift shop. Total Cost was thirteen bucks.
Just strip all the extra stuff of it, and cut the front wheel off. Bolt a piece of aluminum tubing, (or equal across where you cut the front off.
Duct tape a couple of pool noodles across the front and rear to form a nice soft cradle.
Use two cam lock buckle straps cut in half and screw each end of each half to the side frame.
I have used this in four different Adirondack 90 milers where some of the portages are a mile long, and some are like goat paths.
I made a second one and gave it to a friend.
You can then use the $100 bucks to get “the bride” a box of chocolates and sexy nightie, and everyone is happy all the way around!
Jack L
Love it!
Nice looking Christmas trees, too!