of a composite boat.
I want a hole in the bow of my Tuffweave Wenonah to thread a rope through. My plan is to do an “end pour” of epoxy like they do in Pygmy boats and bore the hole through that.
Does that sound reasonable?
Probably fine without the end pour
If you want it really nice. Drill the holes over size and install a tube inside for the line to pass through. The glass is strong, I doubt you need to do an end pour.
Check Materials
When I did some skin repair to my Wenonah, I found out that they used ‘vinylester’ (sp?) resin, on the boat. So I had to make sure my repair materials were compatible and would properly adhere. Polyester would not have worked. There my be some similar issues when dealing with epoxies.
Chuck
Thanks Chuck, I had not thought
of that.
Epoxy is compatible with vinylester
as witnessed by fact that some WW slalom boat makers who prefer vinyester for layup, prefer epoxy for seaming the boat. I have also used epoxy on polyester with excellent results.
Why bore it?
I think you should just entertain it!
3:-)
Chuck
re
I just did my hole for my painter’s line a week or two ago
Pain in the ass
I have a built in dry hatch in the front now which ends a few inches bellow the nose cap of my canoe… well I just happened to pick the spot to drill right where the top wall goes through which has a bit of an end pour in it so…
First you’re trying to drill straight through at a right angle to the keel line but the surface you’re drilling into is > shaped so getting it right is not likely.
Even if its hollow inside your drill breaks free hits the other side and probably is no longer at the same angle anymore.
So I’m drilling in with a 1 1/2" spade bit (I think thats what I used) and as soon as I get through the first side it siezes up as half the inside of the hole is open air on the inside of the dry hatch and other top half of the hole is solid epoxy.
Whip out the dremel-esque tool and grind away the epoxy, then drill through the other side.
At this poind the looking at the front of the boat a stick through the hole would look lik e \ sort of but angled back toward the stern on the right as well.
Solution: grind the hole even bigger on both sides, insert PVC pipe peice and stuff various bits of glass matt folded up around the edges untill its snug and close to level then end pour… which of course seeped out the glass and dripped down both sides.
I used a PCV coupler (1") instead of pipe so that when I pain I can stick a peice of pipe inside to cover it up so it doesn’t get painted.
For those asking why:
By lowering the center of ballance compared to tying to the nose cap your front painter’s line is less likely to upset the boat when its loaded down.
I poured it and bored it and now
have a line outside the canoe where I wanted it.