Bow Tie Down Point for Passat Wagon

Switched a Yakima rack system to my wife’s new Passat Wagon this evening in preparation for a road trip this weekend. All went well, except I can’t figure out where I can tie down the bow line. There are plastic “skid” plates covering everything up front and the grill area is all plastic.

Any suggestions. I know there are lots of opinions about the necessity of bow and stern lines, but at least this first trip with the rack on a new vehicle I would like the added peace of mind.

Thanks - Jamie

Hood hinge loops
On my Matrix I tied in a couple of rope loops through holes in the frame near the hood hinges. The loops tuck out of the way under the hood when not in use.

The Matrix has tie-downs, but for my shorter canoe, I get a much better angle to prevent forward motion with the loops near the hood hinge.

Others use webbing loops with a frame bolt through them instead of a rope loop. Good luck.


There must be tow eyes under there
somewhere. I’m not saying they are convenient… I have to reach way under to reach them on our '08 Accord. But they have to be there, and they are strong. Any force from the rope on the underside of the bumper will be adequately spread out as the rope comes around and up to the boat. We have been using the tow eyes for bow and stern lines on three Accords and a Subaru Outback.

hi…take a 6 " piece of 1" hose …cut 2 slots 180 degrees opposite each other…take a length of nylon webbing and pass one end thru slots, secure web to make a endless loop of useable length. Secure the hose section underhood w/ loop hanging out There is actually a commercial version of this anchor sling but i can’t remember the name of company . I bought mine at AdirondackOutfitters in Saranac lake ,NY …maybe a local kayak shop carries them. maybe you can email them and ask about it. I’ll repost if i find out the name.

Fender Bolt Anchor Points

– Last Updated: Sep-17-08 8:54 PM EST –

I recently fitted tiedown points to our daughter's Subaru Outback by removing the furthest-forward fender bolt from each side, folding webbing to form a loop, burning a small hole for the bolt thru the doubled end of the webbing, then using the bolt, with a large SS washer under the head, to secure the webbing loop in place. It flips under the hood when not in use, and avoids having to lead bowlines over the front of the bonnet. Neat, tidy, simple, strong and very, very cheap...

there is one

– Last Updated: Sep-17-08 9:21 PM EST –

but it is hidden all the way on the right forward passanger side of the car, worthless for a canoe, OK for a kayak mounted near the right roof rail. Just pull the plastic cover off the lower black plastic (stow the cover somewhere, the tow eye is behind it) trim were the fog light is if you have 'em, at least that is were they hid it on past Passats. Otherwise, there is absolutely NOTHING to tie off to under the vehicle. My Passat wagon is a piece of SHITE and has been towed numerous times, and the tow guys (I always use a flatbed tow) laugh at the total non-existance of anything other than the far right eye to winch from. One guy stated VW must have believed the damn cars would never breakdown. I've considered using the web loops bolted under a quarter panel screw under the hood. You just have to pull the loop out from under the hood for a tie-off. Most unreliable vehicle I've owned, drives nice when it does though!

Similar concept mentioned earlier

This you can buy or make your own. The idea is to have a loop with a large object tied to the end. You place the object under the hood and leave the loop out for tying to your tiedown rope.

is the Passat made in Germany?
probably not…

As far as the webbing tabs under the hood (bonnet_for UK readers), that’s the best solution I have found.

Neat, strong and easy to use.

Open the hood. Tie loops of 1" web or rope long enough to project past the hood edge around the frame that located the top of the radiator.

Pics on under transport.

When not in use, just drop the loops under the hood.

Yes the Passat IS made in Germany
and I truly believe the only reason they produce it is to get back at us for kicking butt in WWII. Mine is crap, and everything I read as far as consumer reviews and relaiblity ratings put 'em pretty low on the totem. A shame as they use to be a reliable car. My '02 was rated high when new, but now has a low rating. The '08’s already have a ‘considerably lower than average’ rating in new vehicle ranking! I must say I bought it for it’s fantastic side rails which take Thule/Yakima bars and the bars have a 44"+ spread. The motor seems to be great, never seen a loss on the dip-stick, or a drop on the floor. Beyond that, it is a crap car. Very cheap, but expensive parts.

Pantyhose or stockings.
Tie them in a loop and hook close the hood on them so the hood (bonnet) latch is in the circle.

The same can be done for the trunk (boot).

Now with the nylon pantyhose looped put a real bit of rope on there and it should be secure withoput hurting your car’s paint.

The bow and stern lines should be emergenct brake or acceleration lines only. They catch a boat as it lifts with a suden gust, flies forward due to braking or impact or flies back due to the tgunderous acceleration of my 1993 VW TURBO Diesel (about 70 HP).

The bow and stern lines should not be what holdds it to the roof and if they kick in something went wrong.

Of course like seat belts they should always be there.

Roof Racks part company from cars, straps break, saddles fall off.

Stockings, tough as hell but soft.

say it…

they may not be greatest thing on earth, but they are right next to it.


sorry , i had to…


You’ve got a mind like a guy’s. What was it that got ya, the ‘tie down’ part?

I gave up on VW after a Dasher wagon
and a Quantum wagon. On the Quantum, I was lucky I bought an extended warranty, because three of the window motors failed in a one month period. Back then, they were still using cables for clutch actuation. They wore out periodically and cost too much to replace. Wonderful driving cars, both of them, and it was so nice to have rain gutters for racks. But we switched to Hondas and never looked back.

maybe Made in Germany
is just a marketing thing.

Used to be synonymous with reliability but that seems no the case anymore.

So it might be that only some parts are German (assuming the engine is). Like my car: Made in Germany but assembled in Thailand… what the f*?

At least I have no issues with mine.

So what happened to the Volkswagen factory in Mexico? are you sure they aren’t churning out VW happily labeled Made In Germany?

alex, you are the man
or shall I presume you are a tranny (transvestite)? :slight_smile:

Now, who has the balls to walk into a shop and buy some panty hose?

OK, jokes aside, great suggestion.

Ah, BTW: real rubber burner those 70 HP :slight_smile:

Mexican factory makes everything BUT
Passats, I believe. Beetles and Jettas come from Mexico for sure. Mine was shipped from Germany, and was held up as it arrived in the Texas port on Sept.12, 2001.

g2d: Fellow Dasher driver
Mine was a '74. Great driving, my first FWD, but it was a rust-bucket even though it had dealer-applied rustproofing.


Tie down points
PAJE Products - TopTies

cost 9 bucks from Rutabaga. They go under the hood when not in use and work like a charm. I have them on my truck and wonder how I lived without thme all those years.

tie downs
I may be courting disaster, but I don’t use front and rear tie downs. I’ve got a Yakima Outdoorsman bed rack on my pickup truck, using Mako saddles and Hully Rollers. My kayaks strap down very firmly using just the straps around the hulls with the saddles and rollers. I used front and rear tie-down straps once and couldn’t determine that it made a bit of difference, other than obstructing my vision while driving and creating a lot of wind noise.