An expensive lesson learned not to put the blade under deck lines during paddle float re-entry practice. I was 70% back in the boat, need a little extra oomf and it snapped where the blade connects to the shaft. It’s a 4 piece so the blade is held in with an Allen type screw. Loosening the screw does nothing, I’m unable to extract the broken blade ferrule from the main shaft. Main shaft has foam filler, so I can’t even ream the broken part out from the other end.
Is this a fatal fracture or can it be sent in for repair? I’m waiting for a response from the place I purchased, but they’re not exactly prompt in responding to email or calls.
Fairly sure you need to buy that one section, the blade end. I can hear the sickening sounds of that unfortunate incident. I have the same paddle but 750. Foam should just pull out.
What did you try to pull out broke shaft? They’re made in England so shipping would be expensive. Doubt local dealer would want to take on liability of a repair. Not just the liability of paddle cost but if it broke again and left you in a precarious situation.
Is outside portion of shaft deformed from the break?
I’d try to epoxy something into piece you want to remove. Then lube between outside shaft and piece you want to extract.
If I get a chance today I’ll look at the button on mine.
Those don’t just unscrew. Snug the Allen up…don’t tighten…just snug. Then put the allen wrench in and only turn one turn. If you keep loosening it won’t have the room for the button to clear. {won’t come apart} Just one turn. If you wish to remove the button after it is apart then only turn the allen 2 turns, no more.
Best Wishes
Roy
BYW only need a blade, nothing else…easy fix. Bobonli
Push the button in after loosening it and pull it apart. I counted even turning it out 30 times then pushing button in with my finger and pulling. May possibly be stuck with salt . Soak in white vinegar if that is a possibility. Mine showed no signs of salt. From tight even 3 turns was enough to pull shaft.
I tried loosening the Allen/Lendal screw and then tried grabbing the fractured end with a pliers. All that did was tear away carbon fibers. Then I tried applying outward pressure using pliers to see if I could “unscrew” it that way. No luck.
Outside of main shaft is intact and that’s why I think if I can get that blade-end ferrule out, I’ll just buy a new blade.
I am such a dumb-ass! I loosed the screw…but did not remember to also press down!!
I will re-tighten, loosed one turn and press down.
Ugh! I was so fixated on getting the broken part out that I forgot how it normally works.
My shaft is 205-215 and I wanted to buy a shorter shaft it was 300 bucks. Then I figured that much I’ll buy another paddle. Tell us how much a blade is please. They said shipping prices went crazy. Ask how much a shaft is might split shipping if it’s better for us both. Just a 300 dollar experiment for me for easier or faster cadence lowering the height of my arms.
@Bobonli, I had an issue with my Kalliste, and Annapolis Canow and Kayak, the shop where I bought it returned it to Werner. It was repaired under warranty and back in my hands free of charge, even no shipping.
The button was seized/stuck. Probably when the break occurred the screw and it’s capture point got misaligned. It took a fair amount of fussing with and a second set of hands to get the broken ferrule out. Second pic shows the main paddle shaft. A tiny bit of un-roundness from prying the ferrule out or, more likely, where the snap occurred.
I wouldn’t expect a replacement considering I was responsible for damaging it! What I did was no different than using it to pry something off the sea floor, which is not was it was designed to do.
One thing to note is depending on the Allen wrench that you have. The first wrenches were designed for button removal. The metal on the wrench is not only for loosening and SNUGGING the Ferrell, it is also the exact length needed to push the button out . The top/plastic side has a protrusion to easier push the button deep in order to clear the edge of the ferrell hole and start the button out.
It was later modified and shortened, {people seemed to believe tighter was better and were tightening enough to press the otherwise round shaft into an oval thus allowing the button to push farther than it should and causing the side cuts to split some. The key was then downsized in hopes that people would feel that it was tight without having the leverage to do damage as easily.
I believe that the older style was returned to, but am not totally sure. Beware of over tightening, it is unnecessary. The button system designed by Alistair is made to tighten any wear and wiggle and make it feel like one piece…But not made to hold the world together with shear force. Just snug is all that is needed.
Best Wishes
Roy
I have been using these spigots for around 20 years {I would have to look up when I started making multi-piece take apart Greenland Paddles for travel, to figure exactly how long} Because they work and do make it feel like a one piece. Excellent design.
Wow. Pretty ingenious work there with the take apart joints!!! I bought a carbon ferrule to make my one piece cedar GP a take apart. However, that ferrule has sat on the shelf for over a year… I am just too darn lazy to do much making, fixing, repairing, etc. these days.
. Soak in white vinegar if that is a possibility. Mine showed no signs of salt. From tight even 3 turns was enough to pull shaft.
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