There is a thread on Mountain Buzz of a nasty surf kayaking accident that is worth reading. Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water…
http://www.mountainbuzz.com/viewtopic.php?t=12078
I’ll Say It…
– Last Updated: Jan-06-07 6:14 PM EST –
it's a case of someone not familiar with a break and/or surf. Sounds like he got caught on a steep dumping beach. If you want to get to another peak, get out of the break zone, into the deeper water, before heading over.
Also, sounded like he thought he was playboating and was going to do a loop which meant his upper body/neck/head were sticking straight out to get slammed. Anytime going ass over head backwards by a steep breaker, best to tuck as far forward as possible and relax.
And, finally, schtuff happens more anytime you're want to get beyond flatwater.
sing
Similar experience bodysurfing
I was tired of the lame waves out further, so decided to get the REAL action on storm waves breaking on the beach. I got a lot of really good rides, but had a very large wave pick me up and send me hurtling toward the sand. I always had my arms extended over my head to protect my neck, but, like the kayaker, I thought I was about to be slammed belly first, so I extended my arms straight out. I landed HARD on my left shoulder and head. The shoulder took the brunt and had a 1st degree separation, but I narrowly escaped a serious neck injury.
My 12 year-old neice said: “Uncle Timmy, I TOLD you not to surf that close to shore.”
Thank God I didn’t suffer a brain injury…you’ve got to be careful with a masterpiece.
The first thing I learned about…
…bodysurfing was to wear a ONE piece bathing suit (or full wetsuit!). 
Long before I got into kayak paddling, I was very much into bodysurfing…when I lived in L.A years ago. My favorite spot was “The Wedge” at Balboa Island, Newport Beach (and the Balboa Saloon at the end of the day! :-)).
Once I learned about the proper attire–the hard way–I really loved it. This is also how I learned about “Maytaging”, though I was indeed fortunate to have survived five years of body surfing without any major injuries.
I’m glad to know that Ture is expected to make a full recovery. He’s very lucky.
Melissa
Some Perspective
The surf in SOCAL the day this happened was very very mellow. This guy was either very unlucky or clueless, I would take this as a warning …don’t bring your playboat and head out in the surf, unless you have had some instruction.