Yeah they had something much better, an experienced teacher.
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Definitely give it a go. The Inuit used pine that washed up so no need to use fancy wood, just pick a knot free length so it easy to work. My piece of timber cost less than $10. It took me between two and three days to saw/plane/carve it. I tried out and then carved some more off. There is no standard design so experiment and find out what works for you. I was surprised how easy it was to use, how efficient it was and how straightforward it was to use to roll too. I took time to make it well and it is almost a piece of art. It is a really satisfying project, using my hands to make a beautiful and useful object.
When you’ve got it shaped how you want it, put a few coats of oil on the shaft.
I like walnut oil, as boiled linseed oil can stay sticky. You can use it for the whole paddle or just the shaft and put varnish on the blades. Varnish will chafe your hands and be slippery, while oil stays grippy when wet. You just have to renew it every so often, while varnish will be more durable.
Those are great, I’ve been thinking about making or buying an Aleutian paddle.
Where are you located and do you sell them?
There are basically three different "standard " designs.
The first is the earliest design, of the three, where the blade tapers from the shoulder, to a point a ways back from the tip and then stays parallel for a chosen distance and then narrows some.
The second is where the blade tapers from the shoulder to have the widest point by the tip.
The third is a modification of the others. The blade tapers to a chosen point a ways from the tip and then continues at that width to the end.
These three different ways to shape a Greenland paddle determine the way the paddle loads from the catch and thru the stroke.
I’m in NW CT, contact me
@1890 greenland paddling training paulo does on line training with full vids of what you are about to learn and practice…
here is a sample of vids
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Better yet, just mix tung oil (the pure stuff) or boiled linseed oil 50:50 with varnish. The resulting finish has the same look and feel as oil only, but is more durable.
Raw linseed oil takes a long time to cure, but boiled linseed oil should cure in ~24 hours at room temperature. If yours is staying sticky, it’s time to get rid of it and get a fresh supply.
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Lots of good info and tips to follow. If you haven’t used a GP or had a chance to hold and get the feel for one, do it. Getting a general idea of the paddle length, loom width and blade width beforehand will help get a paddle shape in mind. Once you’ve completed the paddle, but before oiling, take it out and try it. You may decide to refine it a bit more before the final finish. As mentioned in resources above for GP making the boat width and deck height you use can likely effect the loom width and paddle length you would prefer. If you like paddling a GP, you’ll likely be making more so don’t cheap out on the hand tools mentioned. Enjoy the project.
A friend of mine who make Greenland paddles has these suggestions:
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The length of the paddle should be such that went standing upright you should be just able to curl you fingers over the blade end.
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The diameter of the loom should be such that you can comfortably encircle it with your thumb and forefinger. He prefers “indexing” the shaft or making the shaft slightly oval shaped so that you can always tell the paddle’s blade position without looking at it.
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The length and shoulder position of the loom should be determined by holding your hands in a position as if you were signaling a touchdown and going in slightly.
This is a starting point. After using it you can hopefully modify it or use what you have learned from the first one.
I’m completing reworking a GP for a friend. I had originally finished it with Tung oil and didn’t want to sand it off. I reduced the blade thickness but the loom was fine. I was pleasantly surprised to read that Urethane makes a good finish coat over Tung oil so I didn’t have to strip the loom.
I’m in CT if any wants help making one
Polyurethane varnish is a lousy finish for a Greenland paddle, whether you put it over oil or not. The same is true of any film finish, as they all require constant upkeep in order to prevent water from getting into the wood through cracks and scratches and being trapped under the finish, where it can cause discoloration and rot. It’s also really slippery when it gets wet, even if you’re not using a high-gloss varnish. If you take the shine off with steel wool or Scotchbrite, it will feel better initially, but it will just get polished again from use.
That said a 60:40 mixture of pure tung oil or boiled linseed oil and polyurethane varnish works well. You have to use more oil than varnish to get similar performance to the 50:50 blend of oil and natural varnish I mentioned above.
Thanks
What blueprints are you using please?
Greenland paddles are not typically made using blueprints, as they’re sized to fit the user. What you need is the design method so you can create a suitable paddle. Qajaqusa.org is a great source for information on GP design and building. You should be able to find links to all the information you need there.
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Many thanks. Merry Christmas and stay safe.
I asked a family member to get me Brian Nystrom’s book “Greenland Paddles“ for Christmas. 
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Happy to help.
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