I have tentatively gotten permission to put it together in the living room. The question is , can it be moved without damage during the process of putting on the strips?
It would be OK to move it as long as the entire strongback can be moved without a lot strain. I would not suggest taking the hull off the molds to move it, or the molds off the strongback until the outside is glassed. This means if you are going to move it through a door it needs to fit as unit with tipping or stressing it.
I would not suggest building in a part of the house that you live. Sanding dust, fumes from resins, resin drips, glue drips. It is a messy process. Find a business with a small, heated warehouse and ask to lease a little space for a few months.
What he said!
Is a hundred percent right. Dust, fumes, drips really means that the boat needs to be built in an isolated room. I have an attached garage, so I was able to close the door and keep the rest of the house sealed off. If you have ductwork going from the living room to the rest of the house I wold be heasitant to use the living room for any sanding, or epoxying…
The floor of my garage has a perfect outline of the boat I built, so spread a lot of tarps.
I was only planning on doing the wood
part in the house this winter and then glueing and sanding it in the garage and outside.
Just have a good solid strong back. I would suggest that you level it and leave it in place for the entire gluing opperation. Then pull it outside for the staple removing and sanding opperations.
Now you live in spartanburg? Let me know when you get started as I make salescalls down there periodically and I could stop by and critique your beer, er boatbuilding
I live in Mauldin, just south of
Greenville. Stop by any time. IF I do this, I wion’t start until after Christmas. Too many good paddling days until then and not enough time.
what are you building
The best looking boat I’ve seen ,
but pictures only, is the Osprey. I need to do some more looking and it will have to be photos and recommendations from here because I have seen zero strip built canoes and only 2 kayaks. IO am still open to suggestions. I want an efficiet solo. Canoes are apparently not popular in the south.
And Sea-tec, the trick is to be such a pain that she looks for stuff to keep me out of her hair.And to let her get the fun stuff she wants.
I have decided that Sea-Winds are too pricey for me. 4 Grand! And my expeditions are 10-15 miles.
If you ever get up to charlotte area let meknow. I have two cedar stripes hanging in my garage. Canuenut has two canoes and two kayak as stripers and I have a friend or two who have beautiful stripe built canoes. Feel free to contact me.
I will be at Lake Norman on
Oct. 23. How close is that to you? Which one do you guys recommend?
The osprey is a well designed solo that will serve you well in still water, moving water and wind and waves. I have paddled, but not built one. It is on my short list of future projects. You might ask around for some advice about how to strip the tucked in area below the gunwale. I hear that it can be tricky.
My only solo was a Rushton 15’ x 30" canoe. I used the plans from the Atwood Manly book Rushton and His Times in American Canoeing. V-bottomed, little rocker and not a modern efficient design, but seaworthy as hell.
Some I’ve looked at:
Anything associated with epoxy (forget the sanding)is going to produce aa odor that can (especially for those sensitive)be breathtaking.
This is ‘why’ I posted my question about Specialty up near Toronto…Anyplace I can do the build ‘there’ vs here makes a lot of sense to me.
Osprey “tucked in” part
In the plans John Winters shows 2 different ways to strip the knuckle. I didn’t have much problem with mine. A little tedious, but so beautiful